Spreading Vietnamese culinary culture in Germany.

The name The Duc Ngo has once again become the focus of German media attention as the famous German-Vietnamese chef recently launched his first cookbook titled The Duc Ngo: Neue asiatische Küche (The Duc Ngo: New Asian Cuisine).

Vietnamese-born chef The Duc Ngo. Photo: IINAROOSA VIITANEN

According to Falstaff Culinary Magazine, the book is not simply a collection of recipes, but a summary of the culinary philosophy of a chef who has shaped modern Asian cuisine in Berlin for over two decades. The book, *The Duc Ngo: Neue asiatische Küche*, clearly reflects the philosophy that The Duc Ngo has repeatedly emphasized in interviews: that Asian cuisine doesn't need to be "renewed by mixing everything," but rather needs to be re-evaluated with respect and depth.

Born in Hanoi in 1979, The Duc Ngo moved to Germany with his family when he was just 5 years old. Despite facing many difficulties in his early years in Germany, growing up surrounded by Vietnamese food nurtured his passion for Asian cuisine.

In an interview with Stern magazine, The Duc Ngo once shared that he never dreamed of becoming a "star chef." His path to becoming a chef began with practical work, apprenticeship, and observing how Germans ate. This helped the Vietnamese-born chef quickly realize the significant gap between authentic Asian cuisine and the "simplified" reality of European food at the time.

In 1998, The Duc Ngo and his relatives opened the Kuchi restaurant on Kantstraße in Berlin. According to Tagesspiegel, the opening of Kuchi marked a new phase for the street, transforming it from an area with casual Asian eateries into a trendy culinary destination.

Beyond its commercial success, Kuchi has changed how Berlin diners perceive Japanese cuisine. The restaurant combines a modern space and a vibrant atmosphere, while the dishes, described by The Berliner magazine, offer an approach that is "very Berlin but still retains an East Asian spirit."

Following Kuchi, The Duc Ngo expanded its business with various models. Restaurants such as Madame Ngo, Cocolo Ramen, 893 Ryōtei, Le Duc, and Manon appeared not only in Berlin but also in other German cities. Among them, Madame Ngo is The Duc Ngo's most famous Vietnamese restaurant, with pho as its centerpiece. The Duc Ngo recognized that pho is not just a popular dish, but also a "perfect structure" to express its cooking philosophy, with the broth as the soul and every detail serving a balance. According to The Berliner, pho at Madame Ngo doesn't try to copy a specific regional version from Vietnam exactly, but is refined to suit Berlin tastes with a clear, less fatty broth and less overpowering spices. However, The Duc Ngo always emphasizes that this adjustment does not mean diluting the Vietnamese identity, but rather is the result of understanding its target customers.

Another noteworthy aspect is how The Duc Ngo designed the space for his Vietnamese restaurant. Madame Ngo avoids excessive ethnic decorations or nostalgic imagery. Instead, it features a modern space with lighting and furnishings that suit the urban lifestyle of Berlin. The Duc Ngo shared that he doesn't want his Vietnamese restaurant to become a "cultural museum," but rather a place where Vietnamese cuisine lives in the present. This is also why he is willing to change the menu, adjust recipes, and even remove dishes considered essential if they no longer fit the overall experience.

The book *The Duc Ngo: Neue asiatische Küche* also devotes a significant section to Vietnamese dishes, especially pho and noodle soups. The Duc Ngo writes about Vietnamese cuisine from the perspective of a chef who has experienced many different culinary traditions. He emphasizes that Vietnamese cuisine has a great advantage in its balance and lightness, which is very suitable for modern European dining trends. While Japanese restaurants and other fusion styles helped The Duc Ngo gain fame, Vietnamese cuisine is where his personal identity is most clearly expressed.

The Tagesspiegel newspaper called The Duc Ngo the "king of Kantstraße," because almost every project he undertakes quickly attracts customers. Thanks to his roles as chef and restaurant owner, The Duc Ngo is now a prominent voice in German culinary forums. Stern magazine once quoted his view that social media has negatively changed the atmosphere of restaurants, with many people coming to eat to take photos rather than to enjoy the food.

MINH CHAU

Source: https://www.sggp.org.vn/lan-toa-van-hoa-am-thuc-viet-tai-duc-post830955.html