Delicious dishes from alluvial soil

Boiled pumpkin shoots retain their sweet, earthy flavor. Photo: MINH TAM

“ Everyone has their own river in their heart / My heart is always connected to the river of my childhood ,” I hear the melody of the song “Returning to the River of Childhood” (Hoang Hiep) echoing in my ears. To create my own film of memories, to return to my childhood at the headwaters of my mother river. There, every memory seems to appear and disappear along with the fine sand on the riverbanks.

These past few days, whenever we talk on the phone, my friend in Saigon keeps asking what season it is in my hometown. I rattled off a list of peanuts, sticky corn, cantaloupe, pumpkin shoots, bean sprouts...

You said you miss the scorching sun of your hometown and the biting Lao wind, and you're afraid of it. But in return, this season has many unforgettable delicious dishes; just thinking about them makes your taste buds tingle. It seems that these delicious dishes also have the taste of alluvial soil. It makes those far from home feel even more attached and deeply nostalgic for their homeland.

Since the Lunar New Year, the riverside alluvial plains are lush with various kinds of beans, pumpkins, and gourds... Their shoots reach up verdant green. Through the skillful hands of mothers and housewives, they are transformed into countless delicious dishes that satisfy both the sense of smell and taste. These rustic dishes made from bean, pumpkin, and gourd shoots are diverse, ranging from boiled to stir-fried with garlic, mixed, and used in soups...

These types of shoots are characterized by being hairy and rough. My mother always advised that for a delicious dish with tender shoots, the preparation process must be meticulous. After peeling the outer layer, rub them to remove some of the rough hairs.

When boiling, use plenty of water, and only add the vegetables when the water is boiling vigorously to preserve their green color and prevent them from developing an unpleasant odor. Boiled bean sprouts and pumpkin shoots, served with a dipping sauce of fish sauce, chili, and garlic, offer a rustic yet sweet and nutty flavor, while a mixed dish makes for a more appealing and stimulating culinary experience.

This season, many households in the countryside have harvested peanuts and pressed a fresh batch of oil. The first peanut oil of the season, when heated and used to fry onions and garlic, is fragrant and rich.

Boiled pumpkin and bean sprouts are mixed together with fish sauce, chili, garlic, lime, and roasted peanut oil. A little crushed roasted peanuts are added to enhance the richness and aroma. On more elaborate meals, a few river shrimp or strips of pork belly are added, marinated and braised until fragrant before being mixed in. These simple dishes made from bean, pumpkin, and gourd sprouts are fragrant, savory, and healthy.

Beans and squash can be grown in any type of soil, but perhaps those grown in the alluvial plains along the riverbanks have plumper stems and a sweeter, richer flavor. Each season has its own specialties; looking at the dishes on the family dinner table will tell you which season is passing by.

Mixing young green beans with peanuts creates a distinctive countryside flavor. Photo: MINH TAM

Cabbage, squash, beans, gourds, watermelons, cantaloupes, sticky corn, peanuts… they all bloomed green along the riverbanks in succession according to the seasons. Every season, my mother would treat the whole family to the full flavors of that season, a taste we'll never forget.

And it wasn't just vegetables; my friends from the upstream region also remembered the delicious river catfish. Seeing river catfish at the market was like finding the best delicacy in the region. River catfish are related to the Phước Sơn carp, but they live in the river. Just a few crispy fried river catfish dipped in fish sauce were enough for the men of this region to leisurely finish several liters of rice wine.

The Thu Bon River, in its fury, has swept away villages with devastating floods. Many elderly villagers still remember it vividly, recounting in detail the wrath of the Dragon year of 1964. My grandmother was one of many swept away by the raging flood, trapped in the branches of jackfruit trees and bamboo for more than a day and a night. For 50 years, the elders of this upstream region have attributed these tragic events to fate. Absolutely not, they attributed it to the river's own actions.

When they talk about the river, they feel more gratitude than resentment. The river is a witness to generations of people. The lives, beliefs, and customs of the inhabitants on both banks all stem, to a greater or lesser extent, from their reverence for their homeland river.

Recently, Central Vietnam has been experiencing a peak heatwave. From its deep underground springs, the river irrigates the lush green fields of melons, beans, and corn. Beyond providing seasonal produce and delicacies, the benevolent mother river also refreshes the souls of her children with its gentleness and boundless compassion.

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