We decided to go swimming at Muốn Waterfall in Điền Quang commune (Bá Thước district) on a scorching hot day. About a decade ago, the road was only accessible to locals, but now it leads right to the foot of the waterfall. The folk song goes, "If you want to eat corn, go to Rằm Tám / If you want to eat tám rice, go to Làng Mười," and Làng Mười is where Muốn Waterfall is located, with water flowing year-round.
Legend has it that: Once upon a time, there was a young couple deeply in love, vowing eternal devotion. Every day, the young man went hunting in the forest, while the girl stayed home weaving brocade to create dresses and skirts, waiting for the day they would be married. Their love seemed destined for a happy ending, but their families disapproved. One day, the young man and woman climbed to the mountaintop, holding hands tightly, gazing towards their village and families. As the sun was about to set behind the mountains, they parted ways, each going their separate ways, and no one knew where they went...
The locals also have another story. They say that on the top of Muốn Hill – the dwelling place of the Don clan – there was a crystal-clear spring, near the stilt house of an elderly couple who had yet to have children. Out of compassion, the heavens sent a fairy to be born into the family, giving birth to a baby girl with fair skin, truly lovely. As she grew older, the girl became even more beautiful. One morning, she went to the spring to wash rice for sticky rice and met a handsome young man on his hunting trip, stopping to let his white horse drink. They made a vow to marry on an auspicious day. But after several crescent moons and seasons of blooming and fading moonflowers, the young man never returned. Later, the girl heard the tragic news that the talented and chivalrous young man had met with misfortune in Lôn Cave. Unable to believe it was true, she remembered their promise and sat by the spring, waiting for him, her tears flowing endlessly month after month, year after year, until they became a waterfall. The sound of the waterfall is a sad song, like a sigh, a lament of unfulfilled happiness for couples, a memory passed down through generations in folklore. The names Muốn Hill, Muốn Waterfall, and Mơ Waterfall originate from this, reflecting the aspirations for complete love of the young women of Mường Khô.
That is why the people in this area still warn each other: "Whoever passes through Doc Co, Hang Lon/ If you hear the bittern calling its cubs, return home..." Besides the treacherous Hang Lon cave, where the young man perished in the forest, we can still find Hon Da Vanh, marking the boundary of the three villages; the cool, clear spring; and the image of a young woman turned into a mountain rock, waiting beside the silently flowing waterfall that has endured through the years.
Approaching the foot of the waterfall, Mr. Truong Ngoc Tuan, a cultural official from Dien Quang commune, introduced: "In the past, the locals had to climb the mountain together every time they wanted to bathe in the waterfall, which was difficult but also very enjoyable. Nowadays, cars can park right at the foot of Muon Waterfall, making it much more convenient." Passing by the rice paddies in bloom, the sound of the waterfall became even clearer. Mr. Bui Van Hung, the head of Muoi village, told us: "If you come here during the rainy season, from June to October, when there is the most water, the waterfall will be even more beautiful."
Although not as majestic as May Waterfall or Hieu Waterfall during the rainy season, Muon Waterfall never lies barren with only earth and rocks. Therefore, visitors can walk from the foot of the waterfall and climb the rocks in any season without fear of slipping. Muon Waterfall has 43 waterfalls of varying sizes and heights. Among them, the Wind Waterfall and Ben Bai Waterfall are particularly noteworthy. Anyone who hasn't been to Ben Bai to drink the sacred and refreshing water hasn't truly experienced Dien Quang in particular, or Muong Kho in general.
"Drink the sacred water of Ben Bai, water of heaven and earth."
"Muong boys are skilled at setting traps, Muong girls are skilled at building fences."
Along with a system of large and small waterfalls, there are also three caves here: Mong Cave, But Cave, and Ben Bai Cave. Inside the caves, there are many stalactites hanging down resembling pillars supporting the sky, lotus pedestals, Buddha's hand fruits, sticky rice cakes, horses, crocodiles, peacocks, and even a couple exchanging vows... Perhaps it is human imagination that has breathed life into these rock formations, making them even more shimmering and mystical. On Muon Hill and the vast forests of Dien Quang, there are still many types of precious timber trees, rare medicinal herbs used for treating diseases, as spices in cooking, and many other rare animal species.
On Muốn Hill, there are many caves with sparkling, magical stalactites.
“Unfortunately, the Muong ethnic minority people in Muoi village still face difficult living conditions, so they haven't been able to invest in tourism yet,” added village head Bui Van Hung. Currently, Muoi village has 658 inhabitants in 145 households. However, to date, only 3 households are involved in tourism: Ha Van Thinh, Ha Ngoc Thanh, and Bui Van Luc. Most recently, Mr. Nguyen Tam is building 5 guest rooms right at the foot of the waterfall. During the April 30th - May 1st holiday alone, Muoi Waterfall welcomed over 2,000 visitors for sightseeing and swimming. Compared to other locations, that number is still quite modest, but for us, it's a positive sign.
Following his grandparents to the fields, Mr. Ha Van Thinh opened a restaurant here in 2016. Initially, he only had a few customers occasionally. Located right at the foot of the waterfall, his Luong Son - Thac Muon restaurant is the first stop before climbing to the top of the waterfall. He shared: "I am applying for permission to expand and upgrade the restaurant. The convenient transportation has made it easier for more people to visit and swim at the waterfall."
Mr. Ha Van Quang, Chairman of the People's Committee of Dien Quang commune, said: “Coming to Dien Quang, tourists not only admire the beauty of Muon Waterfall and let their souls soar with the legend of the love between a handsome young man and a beautiful young woman, but also have the opportunity to meet and interact with the Muong people, visit stilt houses, enjoy rice wine and unique dishes of the ethnic people. We want to develop Muoi village as a community tourism destination. However, due to the difficult living conditions of the people, inconvenient transportation, and the lack of connection with some other tourist destinations, attracting tourists is still limited. Most visitors only stop here as a stopover before going to Pu Luong for relaxation.”
With its picturesque landscape, Muốn Waterfall is waiting for investors to "awaken" it. Along with 55 historical sites, including 9 provincial-level sites, Muốn Waterfall is receiving attention and focus from Bá Thước district and Điền Quang commune for the development of ecotourism, linked with exploring and experiencing nature and community culture.
MINH HIEN
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