The infamous Governor of Southern Vietnam

STRANGE STANDING GRAVE

Located beside the river in Cai Be town (Cai Be district, Tien Giang province ), a tomb designed in the shape of a tower, about 4 meters high, stands on a spacious plot of land, surrounded by a fence of strange human figures. Near the top of the tower is a statue of an angel with hands clasped in prayer, and on the front of the tomb is a bas-relief bust of a bald man in military uniform. This is the standing burial tomb of Tran Ba ​​Loc.

Locals say the house used to be the residence of Tran Ba ​​Loc.

Despite its 125-year history, the paint and architecture remain striking. Only the steps are covered in black moss. Surrounding the tomb are 12 pillars, approximately 60 cm high, connected by large iron chains. On each of the four sides of the tower are four stone slabs inscribed with information about the person buried in a mixture of French and Vietnamese. The main slab reads: "Emmanuel Trần Bá Lộc, Governor-General of Thuận Khánh." Below are smaller, faded inscriptions, difficult to read, such as "Member of the Supreme Council of Indochina, Legion of Honor. Born in Cù Lao Giêng in February 1839. Died in Cái Bè on October 26, 1899."

Another stone tablet specifically records the positions he held during his nearly 40 years as a collaborator with the French (from 1861 to 1899). Starting as a low-ranking soldier, he rose to the ranks of officer and squad leader in Cho Gao and My Tho. Thanks to his significant contributions in suppressing uprisings in Southern Vietnam, Tran Ba ​​Loc was promoted to district chief, then prefect of Kien Phong, governor of Cai Be, governor-general of Thuan Khanh, and finally a member of the Supreme Council of Indochina.

The remaining stone slabs detail the numerous "campaigns" in which the individual participated, such as the battles of My Tho (1861-1865), Vinh Long, Cambodia (1867), Sa Dec - Can Lo, Rach Gia (1868), Cai Lay (1870), Tra Vinh (1872), Tan An - My Tho - Go Cong (1875), My Tho (1878), Trabec - Tan An (1883), Thap Muoi (1885-1886), Binh Thuan - Khanh Hoa (1886) and Phu Yen (1887).

Comparing these timelines reveals that Tran Ba ​​Loc participated in suppressing the rebellion of Thien Ho Duong in Dong Thap Muoi, pursuing Nguyen Trung Truc in Phu Quoc, and suppressing the rebellions of Tu Kiet in Cai Lay and Thu Khoa Huan in My Tho. Furthermore, Tran Ba ​​Loc even led troops to Binh Thuan, Khanh Hoa, and Phu Yen… to participate in suppressing rebellions.

Front view of Tran Ba ​​Loc's tomb

A CHARACTER DEDICATED TO FRANCE

In his later years, Tran Ba ​​Loc contributed to the construction of several roads in Cai Be and the digging of a canal system approximately 100 km long, including a canal nearly 47 km long and 10 m wide, traversing the Dong Thap Muoi region from Thien Ho to Ba Beo canal (now Tan Phuoc district, Tien Giang province) to channel water, drain acidic soil, serve agricultural production, and facilitate ship traffic. It was inaugurated on June 27, 1897, and named the Governor Loc Canal. In 1947, the Viet Minh government renamed it the Nguyen Van Tiep Canal. During Ngo Dinh Diem's ​​reign, it was renamed the Thap Muoi Canal. After 1975, it reverted to the Nguyen Van Tiep Canal, named after the Chairman of the Resistance Administrative Committee of My Tho province.

However, compared to his crimes, Tran Ba ​​Loc's merits were very small. In "Saigon of Yesteryear ," scholar Vuong Hong Sen wrote at length about Tran Ba ​​Loc but was vague, not explicitly naming him: "Among the early figures who served the French as officials, notable are Ton Tho Tuong, Huynh Cong Tan… The others were also swayed by circumstances. I only record the fiery figures, but temporarily conceal their names."

"The first man rose through the ranks from a militia to become a district chief, then a prefect, and finally retired with the rank of governor-general. His tomb is now in My Tho province. He was a Catholic, and because of his hatred for Emperor Tu Duc's persecution of Catholics, he joined the French early on and achieved many great accomplishments, but was abandoned by the French in his old age. This figure, along with the notorious Nguyen Than from Central Vietnam, both played roles in a play that defeated Mai Xuan Thuong from Binh Dinh province."

Regarding Tran Ba ​​Loc's cruel tactics, Mr. Sen wrote: "When he captured an enemy, he resolutely refused to imprison them, instead beheading them as per military orders: chopping people down like chopping bananas. To deal with enemy soldiers who refused to surrender, Loc ordered the capture of their parents, wives, and children, putting them in shackles and imprisoning them. He also issued a proclamation stating that they had a certain number of days to surrender, otherwise their parents and wives would be beheaded. After suppressing the rebels, he was promoted to governor-general and awarded the Third Class Order of the North Star, but when the fierce bird is gone, the bow hangs on the wall; the French were wary and no longer employed him. In 1899, the Governor-General of Indochina, Paul Doumer, personally visited his home, but he was already near death, only a few months later. Strangely, his dying wish was to be buried standing."

The stone tablet lists the rewards bestowed upon Tran Ba ​​Loc by the colonial government.

The stone slab on the front of Tran Ba ​​Loc's tomb.

In his memoir *Indochina* , Governor-General Paul Doumer recounts about Tran Ba ​​Loc: "Tall, thin, with an intelligent and resolute face, displaying willpower and authority, Governor Loc gave us the impression of a man with a strong personality. He was among the natives who sided with the French immediately after our landing in Saigon… He participated in the fiercest battles, was wounded many times, and was awarded the Military Merit Medal and the Legion of Honor…".

In *Cochinchina* and the inhabitants of the eastern provinces , JCBaurac described Tran Ba ​​Loc: "Tall and slender, with a handsome but somewhat fierce face, beardless, thin lips, bald, broad forehead, a nose that lacked the typical Annamese features, a rather long neck, scrutinizing and suspicious eyes, always impeccably dressed in various outfits, and a majestic gait. Governor Loc instilled a sense of respect in all Europeans who approached him, a respect expressed in the fear and dread felt by the locals." (to be continued)

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