Representative of the richness of Vietnamese cuisine
The longest job I had was after-school babysitting, and one habit I kept up outside of work was eating beefsteak for breakfast. Weekday visits to the Vietnamese cafe behind Lee's Sandwiches prepared me for whatever the day might throw at me.
My regular coffee shop is called Bo Ne Houston, tucked between the arcade and the airy crawfish restaurant. I’ll order my usual bo ne and an iced coffee—when the other morning diners, following my circadian rhythm, walk through the door and quietly take their seats.
Vietnamese beefsteak on The New York Times
Over the years, many things have changed, but Bo Ne Houston remains. I constantly find excuses to come back. Even when I don’t need to drive down to Bellaire to get something, I do. I may be flying out of town for a few months, but when I do, I always have butter and pate (from Bo Ne Houston) in the freezer, and when I get home, I just make myself a warm Vietnamese sandwich and I’m happy.
Bo Ne is a dish that represents the richness of Vietnamese cuisine. Marinated meat is cooked in a special cast iron pan with fried eggs and served with herbs, bread, pate and butter. It is usually eaten for breakfast, along with salad and condiments, but there are many ways to enjoy Bo Ne. You can eat each ingredient separately or mix the egg yolks to coat the beef. Personally, I like to take a loaf of bread and then combine all the ingredients in a cast iron pan, add them to the bread and then “wash it down” with iced coffee…
Beefsteak and I have come a long way. Away from Houston, it was one of the first things I sought out. And so I discovered variations of beefsteak around the world , in Denmark, Alabama, and even in Tokyo’s Shimokitazawa neighborhood…
But if you’re in Houston, there are plenty of opportunities to eat bo ne. In the early 1970s, there were just over a hundred Vietnamese people in Houston. But as the city’s economy grew and its warm climate became more welcoming, Houston became an attractive place to relocate. By the 1980s, Houston’s Vietnamese population was second only to the greater Los Angeles area in the United States. And by the early 2000s, Houston’s Vietnamese population continued to grow, with much of it concentrated in the southwest part of the city.
The food keeps me here
Wherever you find a Vietnamese cafe or restaurant in the area, chances are you’ll find a place serving bo ne. Over the years I’ve wandered around Houston, I’ve found that there are many places that serve this Vietnamese dish. For example, when I’m closer to the Heights, I usually go to Nam Eatery. If I’m a little closer to Westheimer, I’ll go to Yummy Pho and Bo Ne 2; if I’m visiting friends farther west, I’ll stop by Katy Asian Town. And if I’m also getting coffee at Saigon-Houston Plaza, I’ll pass by My Baguettes…
On the surface, beefsteak is a pretty simple dish, with just steak and eggs, bread and vegetables. It's almost impossible to be different.
It's a dish that people wake up to and is easy to make for everyone. Ideally cooked on an electric stove, with whatever pan you have on hand. Depending on the occasion, you can bring the pan straight to the table, along with a salad, for everyone to share.
Beef or chicken eggs are cooked right on a cast iron pan (usually shaped like a cow or goat) and when brought to the table, the oil is boiling and can splatter, so diners have to dodge. That's where the name "beef steak" comes from.
When I returned to the city recently, the familiar place was still Bo Ne Houston. Except that the restaurant has moved to a new location, nestled next to a grocery store and some milk tea shops at the end of Bellaire Boulevard, past the Hong Kong Shopping Center... Sometimes, I think this Vietnamese restaurant is one of the things that keeps me in the city.
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