Sweet and bitter Tram mushroom

I returned to my hometown when the season for Tram mushrooms was almost over.

At the familiar corner of the market, only two vendors remain, a stark contrast to the usual scene of women lining up with baskets of plump, dark brown Tram mushrooms. The late-season Tram mushrooms are smaller and somewhat crumbly, but better late than never.

I love the rainy season, the season of mushrooms. At the beginning of the rainy season, there are termite mushrooms; in the middle, there are straw mushrooms; and throughout the rainy season, there are Melaleuca mushrooms. I remember back then, during mushroom season, every weekend when school was out, I would follow my dad into the Melaleuca and rubber forests near our house to pick Melaleuca and termite mushrooms. Termite mushrooms were a bit rare, but Melaleuca mushrooms were more common.

I love the feeling of parting the leaves and bursting out when I see plump, glossy brown mushrooms growing densely underneath. I choose freshly grown mushrooms that are firm and full, use a sharpened bamboo stick to scrape off the stems, and then rinse them several times with salt water to remove the sand. Many people boil the mushrooms to reduce the bitterness, but my mother says, "That's a waste! The bitterness is medicinal!"

And so, my mother would divide the wild mushrooms into two halves: one half would be stir-fried to make porridge, and the other half would be braised with pork belly and pepper to eat with rice. Wild mushroom porridge was probably the most frequently appearing dish in my house during the rainy season. Sometimes my mother would cook it with snakehead fish, and sometimes, when she didn't have the ingredients, she would make it plain. The wild mushrooms were stir-fried in fragrant garlic oil, a little salt was added, and after a few minutes, a little water had seeped out. When the porridge was almost cooked, the stir-fried mushrooms were added, seasoned, and scallions and peppers were added before serving. Back then, I only dared to eat the plain porridge and didn't dare touch any of the mushrooms because I was afraid of the bitterness. The porridge also had a slightly bitter taste from the mushrooms, and I got used to it and became addicted without even realizing it.

While a steaming bowl of Tram mushroom porridge is perfect for rainy afternoons, Tram mushroom soup or stir-fried Tram mushrooms with sweet potato leaves are ideal for hot summer afternoons. For the stir-fry, my mother would generously boil the mushrooms briefly to soften the bitterness.

Sweet potato leaves are so fresh during the rainy season, my mother says they have to be stir-fried until just tender to be truly delicious. Put a pan on the stove, sauté at least one clove of garlic until fragrant, then add the boiled mushrooms (squeezed to remove excess water) and stir-fry. When the mushrooms become glossy and slightly firm, add the sweet potato leaves, stir a few times, season to taste, and then serve immediately. The mushrooms are cooked just right, slightly crunchy, and the sweet potato leaves are still slightly undercooked, giving them a delightful crispness.

The bitter melaleuca mushroom, when stir-fried with sweet potato leaves, suddenly becomes surprisingly sweet—a lingering sweetness, of course, a sweetness that stays in the throat long after lunch, as you lie swaying in a hammock, lulling yourself into a midday nap.

Source: https://nld.com.vn/diem-den-hap-dan/ngot-dang-nam-tram-20201001195050356.htm