Fragrant with the scent of the land, imbued with the spirit of the countryside.

Tan Hiep is not only famous as a fertile land with vast stretches of ripening rice fields, but it also leaves a lasting impression on many with its unique aroma that permeates every small alley: the scent of sun-dried rice crackers, fragrant with the smell of fresh rice, and the scent of the countryside's sunshine and breeze. Behind this lies the story of people who have dedicated their lives to traditional crafts, contributing to the cultural identity and livelihoods of the local people.

Mrs. Tran Thi Dung and her husband, residents of Tan Hiep commune, pack rice crackers to send to customers. Photo: Huong Giang

The old craft still remains.

On sunny days, along the small roads leading into Tan Hiep commune, it's not difficult to spot a familiar sight: pristine white rice crackers being dried by the villagers on bamboo racks and nets scattered across the yards. The lively chatter, the crackling of kitchen fans, and the sound of the wind rustling through the crackers create a serene and vibrant scene.

The craft of making rice crackers in Tan Hiep has existed for decades, mainly concentrated in Tan Hiep commune and some neighboring communes. The craft has been passed down through many generations, from grandparents and parents to children and grandchildren. Nearly 60 years old, Mrs. Pham Thi Mau, residing in Tan Hiep commune, still wakes up at 2 AM every day to prepare for a new day by the fire, making rice crackers fragrant with the scent of fresh rice. She is one of the "veterans" of the rice cracker making craft.

Having dedicated nearly 30 years to the craft, Mrs. Mau has made hundreds of thousands of cakes, supporting her family and preserving the traditional trade passed down from her ancestors. Mrs. Mau said: “Every day I make nearly 300 cakes, selling them to vendors at markets, shops, and customers everywhere. Each cake only yields a few thousand dong profit, but I'm happy because I'm still preserving the craft my grandparents left behind.”

Although making rice paper is hard work, requiring the worker to wake up at dawn, constantly moving their hands and feet by the hot fire and batches of wet dough, for the past 30 years, Mrs. Tran Thi Dung, residing in Tan Hiep commune, has never once thought about giving up the profession. There have been days when unexpected seasonal rains have forced her to throw away entire baskets of rice paper before they were dry, causing her great regret. Even on days when the weather changes and her joints ache, she still tries to wake up early, light the fire, and make each rice paper sheet, a habit deeply ingrained in her. “Making rice paper supports the whole family; how could I give it up? It’s not just food; it’s also memories, a part of our family,” Mrs. Dung said. For her, each batch of rice paper is a joy, and each day spent working is a happiness.

Late in the afternoon, the wind from the fields blew through the bamboo racks, carrying the gentle aroma of rice mixed with sunshine to the drying cakes. Mrs. Mau busily gathered the dried cakes, saying, "It's hard work, but this profession has become inextricably linked to my life. As long as I'm healthy, I'll keep doing it; I can't give it up."

The cake embodies the spirit of the earth and the taste of the sky.

Each rice cracker here is the culmination of a meticulous and painstaking process in which the craftsman has dedicated his heart and soul. From selecting the finest rice, usually dry-season rice with even, subtly fragrant grains, to soaking, grinding, mixing the flour, and then spreading the batter in just a few seconds over a layer of hot steam, everything requires skill and experience. The thin, even rice crackers are then dried in the sun on bamboo racks or wide mesh screens where a gentle breeze blows. "If the crackers are too thick, they're tough; if they're too thin, they break; if they don't get enough sun, they get moldy; if they're dried for too long, they become brittle and break. This craft requires patience from the craftsman," said Mr. Tran Ngoc Son, a resident of Tan Hiep commune.

Sunlight is the key to the crispiness, delicious flavor, and mold-free texture of Tan Hiep rice crackers. The crackers must carefully monitor the weather and calculate each sunny day, because even a prolonged period of rain can ruin the finished batches of crackers, rendering all their hard work useless.

Each Tan Hiep rice cracker is not only a product of traditional craftsmanship but also embodies the flavors of the land, the diligent labor of its workers, and the love of its homeland. It holds within it the stories of the elders, mothers, and grandmothers, as well as the young people who tirelessly preserve this traditional craft day after day.

Tan Hiep rice crackers are favored by many consumers for their natural deliciousness, lack of preservatives, and preservation of the rustic, traditional flavor. Among them, Mrs. Mau's rice crackers are famous not only in Tan Hiep but also in many places inside and outside the province. The crispy, rich crackers, retaining their traditional flavor, have become a distinctive brand, captivating countless diners. Anyone who has tasted Mrs. Mau's rice crackers once will forever remember that unforgettable traditional taste. Ms. Phuong, a resident of Tan Hiep commune, shared: “I often buy Mrs. Mau's rice crackers to treat guests from afar and as gifts for friends. The crackers are crispy, fragrant, and have just the right amount of richness – a unique flavor that can't be found anywhere else. My friends who receive them all love them because they are not only delicious but also carry the rich flavor of home.”

Although still maintaining traditional handcrafted processes, rice cracker producers in Tan Hiep have begun investing in packaging, trademark registration, and brand building to expand their market. Not only are they found in local markets, Tan Hiep rice crackers are now available in many provinces and cities in the Mekong Delta region, and even on shelves in Ho Chi Minh City. Many people who live far from home buy dozens of rice crackers as gifts for friends and relatives whenever they return.

Amidst the wave of modernization spreading across rural areas, Tan Hiep still has people who keep the fire burning, preserving the traditional craft. The rice cracker is a repository of memories, of love for the homeland, and of the aspirations of many. For those who have left their hometown, when they think of Tan Hiep, the aroma of sun-dried rice crackers, fragrant with the scent of fresh rice, will be the first memory that comes to mind, a confirmation that their homeland is still here in each crispy cracker, carrying the soul of the land and the taste of the sky.

HUONG GIANG

Source: https://baoangiang.com.vn/thom-tinh-dat-dam-hon-que-a463539.html