70th Anniversary of Capital Liberation Day: Searching for traces of Hanoi's 5 historic gates

The city gate is one of the unique features of Hanoi's urban architecture, dating back to the time of Thang Long citadel and not found in any other locality in the country.

According to historical documents, the name "gate" appeared in 1749, after Lord Trinh Doanh rebuilt the 16km long earthen wall on the foundation of the Mac Dynasty ramparts, surrounding the Thang Long Imperial Citadel.

On this wall, there are 8 gates (doors) for people to enter and exit the city. These gates are called cell gates, all built in a square shape, carefully guarded, open during the day, closed at night, and have fences, with soldiers patrolling to prevent thieves and fire alarms.

The word “gate” in Vietnamese is originally translated from the word “o mon” in Chinese, in which “mon” means door, “o” means mound, rampart – a low-lying area surrounded by high mounds to form a shelter (thon o, truc o). The word “o” also means a door connecting the inside to the outside.

The gates of the ancient Thang Long citadel all had in common the fact that they led to the Red River and the To Lich River. Under the Nguyen Dynasty, Thang Long-Hanoi's planning was adjusted many times and the number of gates also changed over time.

According to the “Bac Thanh Du Dia Chi” compiled in the early 19th century, Hanoi had 21 gates. However, in 1831, when King Minh Mang established “Ha Noi Province”, the “provincial city” area (ie Hanoi’s inner city) was mapped with only 16 gates. By 1866, during the reign of King Tu Duc, the “Ha Noi Province” map had only 15 gates…

In the 20th century, with the changes of history, many city gates gradually disappeared. Hanoi only has 5 city gates that are often mentioned and have become famous places in poetry and literature, especially in the triumphal song "Marching to Hanoi" by the late musician Van Cao, with the image becoming a symbol: "5 city gates welcome the advancing army / Like a flower platform welcoming the blooming of five peach petals" on the victory day of October 10, 1954.

The five gates of Hanoi that musician Van Cao mentioned are: Quan Chuong Gate, Cau Den Gate, Dong Mac Gate, Cau Giay Gate and Cho Dua Gate. Currently, these gates are all important traffic junctions or areas of the capital.

Gate of Justice

Quan Chuong Gate is the only gate that still retains its old appearance. (Photo: Danh Lam/VNA)

Quan Chuong Gate was built in the 10th year of Canh Hung (1749) of the Le Dynasty. In the 46th year of Canh Hung (1785), this gate was overhauled. In the 3rd year of Gia Long (1804), it was rebuilt and expanded to its current size.

Initially, this gate was called Dong Ha Mon (meaning Dong Ha Ward Gate), but later people called it Quan Chuong Gate. According to historical tradition, this was to commemorate the merit of a Chuong Co and the army of 100 soldiers under his command who bravely fought the French to protect Hanoi citadel.

Of the five gates, only Quan Chuong Gate still retains its ancient appearance with a three-door gate, a watchtower on the roof of the main gate, and three Chinese characters "Dong Ha Mon" above the main gate; on the left wall of the main gate is a stone stele erected by Governor Hoang Dieu in 1881, strictly prohibiting soldiers and officials from harassing people entering the city through this gate.

Quan Chuong Gate was recognized as a historical relic in 1994. Currently, Quan Chuong Gate is located on Thanh Ha Street, Hoan Kiem District, right at the intersection of Hang Chieu-Dao Duy Tu.

Cau Den Gate

O Cau Den is a large intersection connecting four streets : Hue - Bach Mai - Tran Khat Chan - Dai Co Viet. (Photo: Danh Lam/VNA)

O Cau Den, whose Chinese name is Yen Ninh, is located behind the ancient Thinh Yen citadel. According to Dai Viet Su Luoc (volumes 2 and 3, History Publishing House - Hanoi, 1960), the place name O Cau Den in Thang Long appeared in historical books during the Ly dynasty, that is, around the 11th-12th century.

Old documents and maps show that the location of this place was fixed and existed for quite a long time. During the Nguyen Dynasty, Cau Den Gate was the main important gate connecting Thang Long with the towns and southern provinces (to the capital Hue) through the hills of dense trees and a whole apricot forest (now in the Bach Mai and Truong Dinh areas).

According to the elders, from ancient times until 1945-1954, the current location of O Cau Den had a river flowing through it. On both sides of the bank were alluvial soil with lush vegetable beds all year round, of which the most abundant was amaranth. The bridge across the river was therefore called Cau Den and the name O Cau Den also originated from that.

Currently, O Cau Den Gate no longer has any traces of the past, the location of the old gate is the intersection of Hue-Bach Mai-Tran Khat Chan-Dai Co Viet streets today.

Mr. Dong Mac

O Dong Mac is located at the end of Lo Duc Street, at the intersection with Tran Khat Chan Street and Kim Nguu Street. (Photo: Danh Lam/VNA)

O Dong Mac is located not far from O Cau Den. During the reign of Lord Trinh Sam (18th century), O Dong Mac was called O Ong Mac. The 1831 Hanoi map called this gate O Thanh Lang. In 1866, the map named this gate Lang Yen. In the 20th century, people used to call it O Dong Mac.

This gate is where you can enter Thang Long citadel by both land and water, so it is often guarded quite strictly by soldiers.

In “ The Chronicle of the Capital,” Hai Thuong Lan Ong Le Huu Trac, when returning to his hometown in Hai Duong , passed through this path. He wrote: “On September 10, early in the morning when the moon was still shining, I went to O Ong Mac gate. The gate was not yet open. The guards saw that I had a ‘Hanh quan phu’ card (a card issued by the Lord’s Palace to allow me to go through.”)

Nowadays, O Dong Mac is just the name of a historical place, a trace of the old gate located at the end of Lo Duc street, the intersection with Tran Khat Chan street and Kim Nguu street, southeast of Hanoi.

Cau Giay Gate

Thanh Bao Gate (Cau Giay Gate) on the map of Hanoi in 1890. (Source: National Archives Center I)

According to researcher Nguyen Vinh Phuc, Cau Giay Gate is a gate that cuts through the earthen citadel surrounding the densely populated area in the west of Thang Long citadel. The location of this gate belongs to Thanh Bao village, so it is called Thanh Bao Gate.

Since the 19th century, to facilitate the paper business for sale to people in the inner city, the paper villagers in Yen Hoa have built paper display sheds at the gate, commonly called paper bridges. Therefore, the name of Thanh Bao gate is also called Cau Giay Gate. The word "bridge" here means a selling bridge (market bridge) and does not mean a bridge across the river.

Cau Giay Gate was demolished in 1891. The current location of this gate is the intersection between Son Tay Street and Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, in front of the old Kim Ma bus station.

Cho Dua Square

O Cho Dua is currently the intersection of 6 streets: Xa Dan-Kham Thien-Ton Duc Thang-Tay Son-De La Thanh-New O Cho Dua. (Photo: Danh Lam/VNA)

Cho Dua Gate has more than 760 years of history, in the past it was a very large gate and one of the important military defense positions in the South of Thang Long citadel. Near the gate there is a small market held under the shady coconut trees, partly explaining the familiar name of the gate.

The ancient scholars and literati often passed through Cho Dua gate to go to Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam. Outside Cho Dua gate, there is also Xa Tac altar, where every year in spring, the Ly and Tran kings often came to perform ceremonies, worshiping the god of land and the god of grain.

The traces of the old Cho Dua gate are now located at the intersection of De La Thanh, Ton Duc Thang, Nguyen Luong Bang, Kham Thien, Xa Dan streets and the new O Cho Dua street.

Vietnamplus.vn

Source: https://www.vietnamplus.vn/70-nam-ngay-giai-phong-thu-do-di-tim-dau-tich-5-cua-o-lich-su-cua-ha-noi-post982243.vnp