Bustling season for making fermented fish paste from freshwater fish.

As the floodwaters recede from the rice paddies, the people in the upstream areas of Dong Thap province enter a bountiful season of freshwater fish. Amidst the dry, sunny weather, life at the fish sauce production facilities becomes bustling, carrying with it the hope of a plentiful season of fish sauce, fragrant with the rich flavor of the alluvial soil.

THE WESTERN REGION OF VIETNAM, ONCE A LAND OF "RICE ABOVE AND FISH BELOW"

The Mekong Delta is blessed by nature with a complex network of rivers and canals and a characteristic flood season. Every year, when the water from the upper Mekong flows down, bringing fertile silt to enrich the fields, it is also the time when various types of freshwater fish such as snakehead fish, catfish, and other species migrate downstream.

For the people here, the flood season is not only a time for making a living, but also a time to harvest "gifts from nature" to stockpile fermented fish sauce for the whole year.

People who participate in fish processing earn extra income.

In Dong Thap province, when mentioning fish sauce, one cannot fail to mention So Thuong hamlet, Thuong Lac ward, which is considered the oldest and most bustling "capital" of freshwater fish sauce production in the border region, adjacent to the Kingdom of Cambodia. The fish sauce making village in So Thuong hamlet has existed for about 100 years, passed down through generations in a "father-to-son" tradition.

Mr. Dang Van Co, who has dedicated his life to the craft village, quickly rearranged the jars of fish sauce while sharing: "In the past, there were many small fish from upstream Cambodia. People caught them and then learned how to make fish sauce to use during the dry season. That's how it went, generation after generation, and no one knows exactly when the fish sauce making craft took root here."

During the flood season, when you arrive at So Thuong hamlet, a bustling atmosphere of labor permeates every alley and street. The fish sauce making village has dozens of households engaged in large-scale production, mainly making fish sauce from snakehead fish, catfish, and tilapia.

The Mekong Delta, once a land of abundance, was known for its "rice above, fish below." When the fish catch was so plentiful that people couldn't sell it all or eat it all, they devised a way to preserve it by salting it.

From humble jars of fermented fish paste used for family consumption, over time, this traditional salted fish dish has evolved into renowned types of fermented fish paste, enriching the culinary culture of Southern Vietnam.

Every year, this place supplies hundreds of tons of fish sauce to the market, becoming a source of raw materials for famous fish sauce brands throughout the Mekong Delta.

Ms. Le Thi The, one of the oldest fish sauce makers in the area, said: "My family has been involved in fish sauce making for nearly 60 years, passed down from my parents. Fish sauce making is very hard work, with a closed process and requiring a lot of effort."

There have been ups and downs, fluctuating fish prices, difficult market conditions, and losses that made me want to give up the profession. However, because fish sauce making has supported my family for generations, and I remember the hard work my ancestors put into building this business, I am determined to preserve my family's craft."

To produce a delicious jar of fish sauce that is both visually appealing and delicious, the fish sauce maker must go through an extremely strict and meticulous process. According to Mrs. The, the "family secret" is the key to the fish sauce's distinctive aroma and attractive natural color. The process begins with selecting fresh fish, which are then cleaned of scales, guts, and heads. Afterward, the fish are fermented with salt in a specific ratio for about 10 days or a month, depending on the type of fish. After the "salting" period, the fish are removed, washed, drained, and then mixed with thính (roasted rice, finely ground).

The most important stage is the "fermentation" process, usually using palm sugar to give the fish sauce a subtly sweet taste and a rich aroma. After fermenting with sugar, the fish sauce is further aged for 3-6 months.

It is thanks to this traditional recipe and natural ingredients that the fish sauce has a beautiful red color and rich flavor without the need for any artificial coloring or preservatives.

BUSY SEASON FOR MAKING FISH SAUCE

While the mist still blankets the river, the bustling atmosphere of fish processing begins. This is the peak season, preparing the raw materials for fish sauce production throughout the year.

Mr. Pham Van Dong (Thuong Lac ward), who has many years of experience making fish sauce, said: "This year, the water level is high, so the yield of freshwater fish is abundant."

Fermented fish paste, a famous specialty of the Mekong Delta.

Snakehead fish, catfish, and other types of fish sauce are selected and purchased by fish sauce processing facilities to ensure a consistent supply for the market. On average, some households purchase nearly 10 tons of fish per day.”

The fish sauce making profession not only helps maintain production but also creates jobs for many local workers, especially women and those without land for farming. The fish sauce making season not only brings income but also creates a unique cultural aspect of the Mekong Delta community.

Along the border area with Cambodia, the sight of women sitting together around baskets of small fish like snakehead, catfish, and other species, their hands nimbly preparing the fish while their mouths still chatter and laugh, has become a symbol of neighborly solidarity.

Ms. Tran Tuyet Hong (Thuong Lac ward), who works as a fishmonger, shared: "When the flood season comes, we women have work, earning about 300,000 VND per day, which helps us pay for our children's education and cover family expenses."

To improve productivity and secure a strong market position, fish sauce producers have begun upgrading their equipment and machinery, paying particular attention to food safety and hygiene, product quality, and brand labeling.

Today, the craft of making fermented fish sauce in the Mekong Delta is no longer limited to small-scale family businesses.

Ms. Huynh Thi Kim Em, owner of the Co Ba fish sauce processing facility (Thap Muoi commune, Dong Thap province), is a prime example of modernizing a traditional craft.

From making fish sauce for family consumption and selling to neighbors, Ms. Kim Em has developed a reputable brand, bringing her products far and wide. The transformation from traditional production to a well-structured business model has helped her freshwater fish sauce gain a foothold in the market.

From simple dishes enjoyed by locals such as braised fish paste, steamed fish paste, and fish paste mixed with lemongrass and chili, to elaborate specialties like fish paste hot pot, fish paste has made its way into upscale restaurants and even followed Vietnamese expats abroad to ease their homesickness.

Recognizing the demand for fish sauce among many food connoisseurs, numerous fish sauce production facilities in Dong Thap province have developed their products into OCOP (One Commune One Product) branded "specialty" products that customers buy for personal consumption or as gifts for loved ones.

Each jar of OCOP-certified fish sauce sent to loved ones far from home is not just a dish, but a package that encapsulates the flavors of the alluvial soil, the perseverance, and the hospitality of the people of the Mekong Delta.

The traditional craft of making fermented fish sauce in the Mekong Delta, despite the ups and downs of time, has retained its original value as a traditional village craft. When the floodwaters recede, the vats of fish sauce fill up again, promising a bountiful season, contributing to preserving the distinctive flavor and enriching the culinary culture of the riverine region.

DUONG UT

Source: https://baodongthap.vn/nhon-nhip-mua-lam-mam-ca-dong-a234638.html