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Lam Vinh Mau's tea cart and its 'treasure': ginkgo nuts and almonds.

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ13/09/2024


Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 1.
Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 2.

A hot cup of sweet soup and the warm atmosphere at Lam Vinh Mau's sweet soup stall make many people want to come back - Photo: DANG KHUONG

Visiting the shop on a rainy evening, customers suddenly feel cozy sitting around the tea cart that's always "burning hot".

The owner is an elderly Chinese man, and the current house is built in the Teochew style. He himself can no longer speak Chinese.

When asked, he told Tuoi Tre Online that he didn't want to share any information, only that diners should sit down, enjoy the food, and chat with him, so that they could reflect on and understand the flavors of the dishes.

The tea cart is named after its first owner - Lam Vinh Mau tea cart.

That name has become famous not only among locals but also evokes a craving among customers from far away provinces, to the point that "when you come to Saigon, you have to stop and eat a bowl before doing anything else."

Lam Vinh Mau Tea: "Magic" to Preserve its Aroma

The tea cart is located on Nguyen Thai Binh street and usually sells tea at night.

Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 3.

The tea cart has been around for over 65 years, offering a slow-paced life amidst the bustling Saigon - Photo: DANG KHUONG

In 1958, Mr. Lam Vinh Mau was the one who "established" the tea cart bearing his name in Saigon. Later, he emigrated abroad, and his two nephews "inherited" the business, which continues to this day.

Upon arriving at the restaurant, diners are immediately struck by the wooden cart, adorned with carvings depicting ancient Chinese stories. At the center of this ornate display is a sign bearing the name Lam Vinh Mau.

Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 4.

Many dishes are displayed, leaving diners hesitant in their choices - Photo: DANG KHUONG

As soon as they sit down, diners are faced with the dilemma of choosing their own dessert from the bowls and pots filled with fresh ingredients such as longan, lotus seeds, tapioca pearls, red beans, green beans, etc.

What's unique is that beneath the pots of main ingredients is a constantly burning clay charcoal stove.

The owner shared that it's thanks to cooking for such a long time that the broth of each type of dessert is so fragrant and rich in fruity aroma.

Besides maintaining a long cooking time, the artisan making the sweet soup must use some kind of "magic" to preserve the exquisite aroma extracted from the fruits and vegetables, by carefully adding sugar while the soup is still hot. Sugar is the key element in retaining the aroma.

It's a process where the cook must master each step.

A pot of pale yellow liquid sits in the middle of the cart, and whenever making any kind of dessert, the owner "unhesitatingly" scoops a few spoonfuls into it.

Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 5.

The sweet soup is usually heated in a small pot before being served to diners - Photo: DANG KHUONG

Diners might easily guess out of curiosity that it's sugar syrup to make the dessert sweeter. But few know that it's actually a liquid brewed with herbs, which helps to reduce the sweetness of the dessert.

When asked, the owner jokingly replied, "That's my 'magic water,' you need it for the dessert to taste good."

Only by eating here and observing each step of the owner's actions can diners truly appreciate the meticulousness and care of the skillful fingers "magically" transforming each cup of dessert.

Controversy over the price of 45,000 VND per bowl.

One of the most beloved desserts among customers, some even considering it a "treasure" of the shop, is the ginkgo and almond dessert.

Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 6.

The ginkgo and almond dessert is considered the shop's "treasure" - Photo: DANG KHUONG

Whenever serving tea to customers, the shop owner often says, "Just one sip and you'll know if the tea is good or bad." Indeed, the tea is very refreshing, sweet, and slightly creamy, and especially fragrant with the aroma of almonds and ginkgo nuts.

The almonds are made into a jelly, and diners may feel a slightly fishy taste when biting into it, but the bitterness of the ginkgo nuts soothes the fishy sensation and helps to create a more harmonious overall flavor in the dessert.

The owner said this is a specialty dish with a flavor that customers won't find anywhere else.

Besides, red bean sweet soup also has a strong appeal, as it not only stimulates the taste buds but also arouses the curiosity of the eater.

Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 7.

Red bean sweet soup is highly appealing thanks to its unique flavor and aroma - Photo: DANG KHUONG

When eating red bean sweet soup, some diners guessed among themselves what that mild, refreshing, "familiar yet hard to remember" aroma was. The vendor shared that it was dried tangerines cooked together with the sweet soup.

The aroma of tangerines neutralizes the fishy taste of red beans. Moreover, in Chinese cuisine , this cooking method also gives the dish medicinal properties. The tea also has a fragrant bean aroma, making diners think it's the liquid that flows from the beans themselves.

Offering a unique experience for diners, the dessert shop still receives some mixed reviews regarding its price of 45,000 VND.

In the Google Maps review section, one diner shared:

"A glass of tea with 3 sliced ​​lotus roots and 3-4 ginkgo nuts for 45,000 VND seems a bit expensive, even though I can appreciate the exquisite preparation and the less sweet taste."

Some other diners agreed, saying that this dish is worth trying but not worth returning for.

The common "outrage" among customers is that this is a street food stall with no air conditioning, yet it still charges exorbitant prices, equivalent to the price of a bowl of noodle soup.

However, some customers who ate at the restaurant also mentioned that they were from Hanoi and had been long-time patrons. Whenever they had business in Saigon, they would stop by the restaurant for a drink before starting their work.

Chè Lâm Vinh Mậu: Một chén chè với giá 45.000 đồng nhận nhiều ý kiến trái chiều - Ảnh 8. Sticky rice with sweet soup is a harbinger of the Vu Lan festival.

Those little boys and girls from Hanoi, now with graying hair, sat together, reminiscing about the Vu Lan festival of their childhood. They shared bowls of sticky rice and sweet soup, eating and reminiscing about a time that would never return.



Source: https://tuoitre.vn/xe-che-lam-vinh-mau-va-mon-bao-vat-bach-qua-hanh-nhan-20240912212957653.htm

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