Following the Xuan Giang stream in search of the scent of moss on the rocks.

Amidst the chilly mountain air, sitting by the fire listening to the crackling of the embers, waiting for the banana leaves to gradually change color before opening the steaming hot package of moss, diners can experience the unique flavors of the Xuan Giang mountains.

The spring water in Xuan Giang is crystal clear all year round. The streams meander through the mountain slopes, gurgling over moss-covered rocks, carrying the characteristic coolness of the mountainous region of Tuyen Quang.

For the Tay people here, the stream not only provides water for daily life and irrigating fields, but also generously bestows a special gift from nature: moss on the rocks.

Moss in Xuan Giang usually grows clinging to rocks at the headwaters of clean water. Only sections of the stream with truly clear, steady, and cool water year-round can produce this delicious moss. During the season when the moss is young, the locals bring baskets down to the stream early in the morning, gently removing each layer of soft, lush moss clinging to the rocks.

The process of preparing rock moss is much more elaborate than many people imagine. After harvesting, the moss must be cleaned of dry leaves, sand, and pebbles, then rubbed and washed many times until it is soft and no longer slimy. Afterward, the locals mix the moss with familiar mountain spices such as mắc khén (a type of wild pepper), hạt dổi (a type of wild nutmeg), ginger, lemongrass, and chili peppers to create its distinctive flavor.

From moss, the Tay people prepare many dishes such as moss soup, stir-fried moss, steamed moss, but the most appealing is still grilled moss. After being seasoned, the moss is wrapped in green dong leaves and placed on hot coals. The fire is not too strong, just enough heat to bring out the aroma of the leaves, the spices, and the characteristic earthy taste of the stream moss.

Amidst the chilly mountain air, sitting by the fire listening to the crackling embers, waiting for the banana leaves to gradually change color before opening the steaming package of moss, diners can experience the unique flavors of the Xuan Giang mountains. The soft, fragrant moss, infused with the spicy kick of mắc khén (a type of spice) and the refreshing coolness of the spring water, makes this rustic dish unforgettable.

The Tay people in Xuan Giang believe that moss is a clean gift from nature. Therefore, when harvesting moss, they usually only pick just enough, not raking it to the roots, in order to keep the stream clean and green and allow the moss to continue growing in the next season. This approach also demonstrates the harmonious connection between people and nature in the highlands.

Mr. Hoang Van Thuy, a Tay ethnic minority resident of Chi village, Xuan Giang commune, shared: “Moss is a long-standing dish of the Tay people in Xuan Giang. In the past, during the clear water season, people would go down to the stream to collect moss to prepare. This dish is not only delicious but also associated with childhood memories and the lives of people living by the stream.”

Along with its pristine natural landscapes and rich cultural life, in recent years, the traditional cuisine of Xuan Giang has become a major attraction for tourists. Many people come not only to admire the mountains and listen to the sound of streams flowing through the peaceful villages, but also to experience the taste of grilled moss by the fire in a stilt house.

Ms. Nguyen Thu Hang, a tourist from Hanoi, said that she was quite surprised by the unique flavor of grilled moss, which she tasted for the first time. The moss has a distinctly fragrant, nutty, and refreshing taste. The cozy atmosphere around the fireplace in a stilt house amidst the mountains of Xuan Giang also helped her better appreciate the culture and life of the local people.

On today's journey exploring Tuyen Quang province, Xuan Giang moss may not be a fancy or luxurious dish. However, it is precisely its simplicity, pristine nature, and flavor imbued with the essence of the mountains and forests that make it an unforgettable part of many tourists' memories. And when leaving Xuan Giang, amidst the myriad flavors of the mountainous region, people will forever remember the slightly pungent aroma of grilled moss mingled with the kitchen smoke, the sound of the babbling stream at the foot of the mountain, and the sincerity and simplicity of the Tay people in the headwaters of Tuyen Quang.

(VNA/Vietnam+)

Source: https://www.vietnamplus.vn/theo-dong-suoi-xuan-giang-tim-huong-reu-da-post1109478.vnp