Go Cong: "A land of spiritual significance and outstanding people"

The shrine dedicated to national hero Truong Dinh is located inside the temple.

"Mr. Truong, the 'dark-eyed man,' fought against the French."

In Go Cong, there is a folk song that goes like this:

"Go Cong is wonderfully heroic."

Mr. Truong, the "dark-sky leaf-covered group," fought against the French.

Or:

"Rumors spread about the darkening of the leaves."

There was Mr. Truong Dinh who displayed his courage and integrity."

This is a tribute to the bravery of national hero Truong Dinh in Go Cong, with his very early and influential uprising against French colonialism. In this region, many relics related to the Truong Dinh Uprising are easily found. To the local people, hero Truong Dinh is like a guardian spirit, a protector and guardian. Notably, in 2024, the Prime Minister decided to classify the Truong Dinh Uprising Sites in Tien Giang province (now Dong Thap province) as a Special National Monument.

A prime example is the Tomb and Temple of Truong Dinh in Go Cong ward. This well-maintained and ancient site, situated amidst the tranquil town of Go Cong, is filled with the scent of incense year-round, attracting many visitors. After the hero Truong Dinh's suicide in 1864, his second wife, Tran Thi Sanh, organized the funeral, built a tomb of laterite stone, and erected a tombstone inscribed "Tomb of Truong Cong Dinh, Great General of the Pacification of the West." However, the French disapproved and chiseled away the inscription "Great General of the Pacification of the West." Around 1930, the family of Mr. Doc Phu Hai, the nephew-in-law of Tran Thi Sanh and Truong Dinh's maternal uncle, renovated the tomb, adding a stone wall and replacing the tombstone with a new one inscribed "Tomb of Truong Cong Dinh, Great General of the Pacification of the West, posthumously awarded the title of Five-Army Duke," with the date of his suicide (August 20, 1964) and "Erected by Tran Thi Sanh."

By 1973, the local people organized the construction of a magnificent temple with a portrait of the national hero placed in the main hall, behind which was a solid bronze statue of him. On either side were altars dedicated to the "civil officials on the left and military officials on the right." The temple also features many couplets written by the local people to honor his civil and military officials. The temple walls also bear many inscribed steles with heroic sayings of the hero Truong Dinh, such as: "We swear to fight forever and without ceasing. When we lack everything, we will break branches to make flags, and use sticks and clubs as weapons for our soldiers."

The second component of the relic site is the Fortress of Truong Dinh's rebel army (Tan Phu Dong commune, Dong Thap province). Originally a fort (understood as a fortress or rampart, but on a different scale) built by Emperor Minh Mang, it was called Tu Linh Fort. After the fall of Dinh Tuong Citadel in April 1861, the hero Truong Dinh returned to Tan Hoa to build a base for resisting the French and used Tu Linh Fort as a defensive rampart, called the Fortress, equipped with cannons. Currently, the Fortress still retains many important relics such as moats, ramparts, and structures within the ramparts…

In Gia Thuan commune, Dong Thap province, there is a historical site dedicated to the Truong Dinh Temple. After the hero Truong Dinh's martyrdom, the people of Gia Thuan erected a temple in his honor, despite the area being heavily guarded and controlled by the enemy. Initially, the temple was a simple structure made of bamboo and leaves, with the exterior covering the Gia Thuan communal house. In the early 20th century, the temple was rebuilt in a more elaborate style using precious wood and tiled roof. During the resistance against the French, the enemy used the temple as a fort, later destroying it completely. In 1956, the people of Gia Thuan rebuilt the temple on its original site, and it has been preserved, restored, and renovated to this day.

The most famous historical site related to the Truong Dinh Uprising is the "Dark Leafy Area" in Gia Thuan village (now Gia Thuan commune, Dong Thap province). In the 1860s, this was a desolate area, overgrown with coconut trees, dark and gloomy, and the locals called it "Dark Leafy Area." Recognizing the strategic military advantage here, Truong Dinh's rebel army chose to establish their base. It was here that he wrote the Proclamation calling on all classes of people and scholars of the six southern provinces to rise up against the French invaders. The Proclamation included the lines: "The people want me to become the Commander-in-Chief of the three provinces. I rely on the unwavering love of everyone for me. That will put an end to the ruthless invaders." During the two wars of resistance against France and the United States, "Dark Leafy Area" was also chosen as the location for many revolutionary organizations such as the engineering workshop and medical station.

Another important historical site is Ao Dinh (now located in Tan Dong commune, Dong Thap province). It was here, on the night of August 19th to 20th, 1864, that Huynh Van Tan, a collaborator of the French army, surrounded the place where Hero Truong Dinh and his resistance fighters were stationed. Breaking through the enemy's encirclement, Hero Truong Dinh was shot and committed suicide at Ao Dinh.

Every year, on August 18th, 19th, and 20th (Gregorian calendar), the Truong Dinh Festival is held in many localities of Go Cong region, and is now included in the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Turtle Hill - Royal Land

In mid-June of the lunar calendar, Son Qui ward, Dong Thap province, solemnly organized the 200th anniversary commemoration ceremony for Duke Pham Dang Hung (1825-2025) at the Royal Mausoleum.

Inside the Royal Mausoleum.

Son Qui, also known as Turtle Hill, is a land of auspicious energy and spiritual significance, the birthplace of a revered figure. The Royal Mausoleum, built in 1826, comprises the ancestral tomb of the Pham Dang family and the tomb of Duke Pham Dang Hung. The Pham Dang family held high positions in the court for five generations, renowned for their vast knowledge and talent, earning widespread admiration. The Royal Mausoleum houses the worship of five meritorious officials of the Nguyen Dynasty from the Pham Dang family. The main altar is that of the Minister of Rites – Duke Pham Dang Hung; the two altars on the right (from the outside) are dedicated to Phuc An Hau Pham Dang Long (his father) and My Khanh Tu Pham Dang Tien (his great-grandfather); the altar on the left is dedicated to Binh Thanh Ba Pham Dang Dinh (his paternal grandfather) and Thiem Su Phu – Pham Dang Khoa (his great-great-grandfather). A few years ago, an altar and bronze statue of Empress Dowager Tu Du, the daughter of Duke Pham Dang Hung, were placed in front of the altar.

The most frequently mentioned figure at the Royal Mausoleum is Mr. Pham Dang Long, the pioneer of this land, who named it Son Qui. Mr. Pham Dang Hung, the third son of Mr. Pham Dang Long, born in 1764, was accomplished in both literature and martial arts. He rose to the position of Minister of Rites in the Nguyen Dynasty and was entrusted with guarding the Hue Citadel. Mr. Pham Dang Hung was also related to Emperor Minh Mang twice through marriage. His son, Mr. Pham Dang Thuat, held the position of Lang Trung in the Ministry of Rites and married Princess Nguyet Dinh, who was granted the title of Imperial Son-in-law and Commander. Prince Mien Tong (son of Emperor Minh Mang) – later Emperor Thieu Tri – married Mr. Pham Dang Hung's daughter, Pham Thi Hang. Pham Thi Hang later became the Empress Dowager Tu Du.

An interesting detail about Gò Rùa (Turtle Hill) is that it was one of the main headquarters of Trương Định's rebel army, with the support of Empress Dowager Từ Dũ. She used the pretext of a "disturbed dragon vein" to order the construction of ramparts at Gò Rùa, but in reality, it was to help Trương Định's rebel army build fortifications to defend against the enemy. This event was mentioned by the poet Nguyễn Đình Chiểu in his poem "Elegy for Trương Định":

"Clouds hang over Truong Coc, the road is deserted."

"The moon sets over Turtle Hill, the sound of drums fades away."

Within the Royal Mausoleum grounds lies an ancient well, dug by Mr. Pham Dang Long to provide water for use, as the area was near the sea, prone to drought, and scarce in freshwater. With his expertise in geography and feng shui, Mr. Pham Dang Long successfully dug a well. Folklore recounts a strange story: when Mr. Pham Dang Hung's wife gave birth to their daughter, Pham Thi Hang, all the wells in the area dried up, except for the Pham Dang family's well, which was full of fresh, cool water immediately after being drawn ashore. Thanks to this well, the people in the area were saved from drought. Everyone was grateful to the Pham Dang family. Another story is that when Mr. Pham Dang Hung's wife gave birth to their daughter, a bright moon shone on Go Rua (Turtle Hill). Seeing this, he named his daughter Hang, hoping she would achieve great things. Indeed, this daughter of Go Cong later lived up to her reputation as a queen. In "Nam Ky Phong Tuc Nhan Vat Dien Ca" (A Narrative Poem on Customs and People of Southern Vietnam), author Nguyen Lien Phong wholeheartedly praised her.

"It truly is a sacred place."

"The Empress Dowager brought glory to her family."

In 1992, the Royal Mausoleum was classified as a National Historical and Cultural Monument by the Ministry of Culture and Information.

***

In Go Cong today, many ancient legends about this land of "spiritual significance and outstanding people" are still remembered by the locals with pride and gratitude to their ancestors.

Text and photos: DUY KHÔI

Source: https://baocantho.com.vn/go-cong-dia-linh-nhan-kiet--a188668.html