Historical strata

Thanh Hoa province boasts numerous unique mountains, caves, temples, and shrines, but the Truong Le mountain range (Sam Son City) has carved out its own distinct and unmistakable form. This unique shape, along with its layers of history and culture, has contributed to the strong appeal and valuable tourism resource of Sam Son in particular, and Thanh Hoa province in general.

Doc Cuoc Temple.

Truong Le Mountain, located in the southeastern part of Sam Son City, is composed of a series of interconnected mountain ranges extending from the mainland towards the sea, forming a protective rock wall for this beautiful coastal area. According to historical records, Truong Le is a range of granite and schist mountains, formed hundreds of millions of years ago. Through a long process of mountain formation, the Truong Le range has taken shape with 16 peaks of varying heights, each with unique names such as Co Giai, Dau Voi, Phu Thai, Hon Keo, etc., with Hon Keo reaching an altitude of 84.7 meters above sea level.

Visiting Truong Le Mountain, tourists will immerse themselves in the lush green foliage, breathe in the fresh air, enjoy a sense of peace and tranquility, listen to the sound of waves crashing against the rocks, and sincerely entrust their hopes and wishes to the lingering scent of incense... At the foot of Truong Le Mountain are bays that are both poetic and expansive, breathtakingly beautiful: Tien Bay, Ngoc Bay, Vinh Son Beach, Nich Beach... At first glance, the mountain range "appears like a magnificent statue resembling a woman with soft, graceful curves lying on her back looking up at the vast blue sky."

These metaphors and associations evoke emotions, conjuring up a fantastical story surrounding the formation of Truong Le Mountain. From within the rocks, the mountains, and the moss-covered ancient temples of Truong Le Mountain, lie legends and myths imbued with spiritual significance, passed down through generations. These include the legend of the Drum and Rooster Rock, the legend of the One-Legged God – a giant who sacrificed himself to defeat sea demons, splitting his body in two to protect the lives of the people… The Truong Le mountain range holds within it countless unique historical, cultural, and spiritual values, with a system of sacred temples such as: the One-Legged Temple, the Fairy Temple, the To Hien Thanh Temple, and the Tranh Pagoda…

In the system of legends and myths about the giant gods of Thanh Hoa province, the most prominent is the god Doc Cuoc, associated with the Doc Cuoc Temple located on Co Giai hill, Truong Le mountain range. Leaving behind the hustle and bustle of life, visitors ascend the stone steps leading to the Doc Cuoc Temple, where a unique cultural and spiritual space unfolds before their eyes: the triple-arched gate with two majestic guardian deities holding swords standing guard and two stone elephants; the main temple; the Mother Goddess shrine; and the area for preparing offerings...

The main temple has a T-shaped structure, with a spacious five-bay front hall. From the outer to the inner main columns, one side holds a gong stand, the other a drum stand, followed by two stands for attendants and ancient chess pieces. In the front hall hangs a couplet: “Four bells, the spirit desires to reach heaven and earth / Virtue and profound gratitude permeate ancient and modern times” (translated by Bui Xuan Vy). The central hall is a three-bay, four-row columned structure, designed in the shape of the T-shape. The rear hall is divided into two parts; the outer part houses a bust of the god Doc Cuoc, painted in pure black. The innermost part is the most majestic, where the altar is located. On the altar is a large, gilded, dragon-panelled shrine; inside the shrine are the god's throne, sacred tablet, and ceremonial chest. The Doc Cuoc Temple has undergone numerous renovations and restorations. From a temple built of bamboo with a thatched roof, it has now become a beautiful and sacred symbol in the spiritual life of the people of Sam Son. Ms. Hoang Kim Nhung (Yen Dinh) excitedly shared: “This is the third time I have come with my family and friends to visit and offer incense at Doc Cuoc Temple. We usually come here at the beginning of the new year, sincerely lighting incense sticks and hoping the deities will witness and grant us health, peace, good fortune, and wealth. Although the temple is not grand or magnificent, the natural scenery is very beautiful, and it has a long history and is famous for its sacredness, so everyone enjoys it and hopes to return many times.”

Anyone who has ever visited Sam Son City and set foot on Truong Le Mountain cannot miss the scenic spot of Hon Trong Mai (Rooster and Hen Islet). Located on the gentle slope of the Truong Le mountain range, Hon Trong Mai consists of three large rocks skillfully sculpted and arranged by nature. A large rock lies at the bottom as a sturdy base, while two rocks above are symmetrically positioned, resembling a pair of birds. Through the passage of time, Hon Trong Mai has persistently offered a love song imbued with legendary charm. The story of the unwavering and faithful love between a poor couple, who shared life and death together, has breathed life into the rocks, giving these seemingly inanimate objects a unique origin and a life of their own. Most importantly, the folk legend has deeply etched into the rocks a profound humanistic beauty, contributing to the brand of this national scenic spot. Since 2019, the Love Festival - Hon Trong Mai (Rooster and Hen Islet) has contributed to honoring the beauty and significance of the scenic spot, while diversifying products and further promoting the development of Sam Son tourism.

After being captivated by the beautiful natural scenery and immersed in the cultural and spiritual atmosphere of temples, pagodas, legends, and myths, visitors can experience the thrill of searching through the green foliage and thorny bushes to witness firsthand the remnants of the old French villas and resorts on Truong Le Mountain, dating back hundreds of years, that still remain today. During the conversation, Mr. Hoang Thang Ngoi said: “When I was still working, I went to the National Archives Center I, Vietnam National Library, to help Sam Son City search for and collect documents to determine when Sam Son's tourism industry began. At the Vietnam National Library, I was provided with some documents by the staff, mainly articles written in French. While browsing through them, I found a newspaper article that reported, in essence: The Governor-General of Indochina issued a decree allocating 8,000 francs (the old French currency before being replaced by the Euro) to each of Sam Son and Do Son to build a resort for French soldiers. This can be considered the first milestone in the process of the French coming to Sam Son to develop resort tourism.”

Several documents, when writing about Truong Le Mountain and the formation and development of Sam Son tourism, whether meticulous and detailed or brief, all affirm the imprint of French resort development in this area. In the article "From Thanh Hoa to Sam Son," printed in the book "Beautiful Thanh Hoa" by the French scholar H. Lebreton, there is a passage describing Sam Son at that time in great detail: "The villa of the Thanh Hoa Commissioner's office with its beautiful lim wood columns built near the Doc Cuoc Temple on Mui Chao Mountain - between that building and coordinate 79 is the Des Rochers villa (on the mountain) built on a steep promontory at the foot of the waves of this province, where officials vacationed."

Along the length of Truong Le mountain peak, there are currently two areas that still bear traces of resorts built by the French in the early 20th century. One area was for French officials, the upper class, and high-ranking figures to visit and relax; the other was a resort exclusively for King Bao Dai. Although not entirely preserved, these remnants are still sufficient to illustrate the scale, level of investment, and sophistication of the French in their leisure and enjoyment of life hundreds of years ago; and at the same time, affirm the attractiveness, potential, and long history of developing resort tourism in Sam Son.

The journey of March is drawing to a close, preparing to welcome the sunny month of April. This is also the time when Sam Son City enters its beach tourism season with so much excitement and anticipation. And Truong Le mountain range remains an attractive destination, captivating visitors with its blue sea, white sand, and golden sunshine...

Hoang Linh

Source: https://baothanhhoa.vn/nhung-via-tang-lich-su-van-hoa-nui-truong-le-243040.htm