The sound of Then music in the valley of clouds

In the afternoon at Cho Giai, clouds from Ba Be Lake, carried by the mountain breeze, drifted lazily over the stilt houses like silver ribbons. Thin wisps of kitchen smoke drifted away with the wind, mingling with the soft, melodious sounds of the zither playing on the wooden veranda. In the small earthen courtyard in front of the Hoang family's stilt house, the "Clouds and Mountains Fairy" zither-playing club practiced. Each rhythmic note, each gentle melody, seemed to awaken the entire valley.

Members of the "Clouds and Mountains Fairy" folk singing and zither club perform a piece by the stream.

Then music on stilt houses

Since ancient times, the Phuc Loc area, about 20km from Ba Be Lake, has been a melting pot of the cultures of the Tay, Dao, Nung, Kinh, and Mong ethnic groups. Among them, the Tay people hold a central role, possessing a rich and ancient tradition of then music deeply intertwined with their spiritual life. For them, then is not just music , but also a ritual, a spiritual bridge, and a message from people to their ancestors.

While in the past, then melodies were primarily heard in rituals for peace, inviting spirits, healing, and warding off misfortune, these traditional tunes are now undergoing a transformation. While retaining their ancient essence, the content has been given a new lease of life: praising the Party and President Ho Chi Minh, celebrating peaceful and joyful lives, honoring the mountains and forests of Ba Be, and celebrating labor and the changes in the homeland.

However, as the older generation of artisans gradually disappears, the lack of successors has become a common concern for many families and villages.

And from that concern, in November 2024, the "Cloudy Mountains and Fairy" Then Singing and Dan Tinh Club was established. Initially with over 50 members, it has now grown to 63, mainly Tay people from the villages of Cho Giai, Na Ma, Vang Ke, Coc Lot, Na Dai, Ban Moi, Coc Lung, Na Meo… A Then singing class is organized right on the foundation of old values, not only to continue but also to spread the cultural spirit of the entire community.

The family gatherings take place regularly every week at the Hoang clan's stilt house, a spacious area by the stream, surrounded by cornfields, green valleys, and mountain breezes.

Under the warm roof of the stilt house, the elders teach the younger generation how to play the zither and string instruments. The younger generation, in turn, guides the elders in fan dances and zither dances. Regardless of age or occupation, everyone shares the same spirit: preserving the heritage with willingness and passion.

Artisan Hoang Van Co (67 years old) shared: "Despite busy farming seasons or rainy and windy weather, people still make time to attend the training sessions. Even on rainy and windy days, more than thirty people still put on raincoats and travel long distances to practice. Those who know more teach those who know less, and those who know less teach those who don't know at all… and step by step, they continue to extend the cultural heritage of their ancestors."

Legend has it that in Phuc Loc there is a mountain called "Fairy Mountain," shrouded in clouds throughout the four seasons. On moonlit nights, viewed from Cho Giai village, the mountain's silhouette stands out sharply against the sky, the moonlight illuminating the valley like a sheet of silver. Since ancient times, the locals have called this mountain "Fairy Mountain" to express their pride in its unique and unparalleled beauty. And the club chose that name to remind us that each folk song, each musical note, is like a fresh layer of clouds drifting towards the mountain, enriching the soul of this land.

Awakening ancient sounds

One of the unique and distinctive features of the "Cloudy Mountains and Fairy" Then Singing and Dan Tinh Club that attracted us was the large number of young people. Children aged 8 to 15 were all eager to learn Dan Tinh and Then singing. This is what gives the artisans more confidence when looking at the future of this heritage.

Eleven-year-old Hoang Phuong Thao has been learning the then instrument for 12 months and can skillfully perform many basic then songs. Every time she stands in front of the schoolyard or at the spring festival, she feels like she is telling the story of her people. Meanwhile, Lam Hoang Yen, who has only participated for six months, has already memorized many new then songs. Everyone is impressed by how quickly Yen's small hands keep the rhythm of the then instrument.

Lam Hoang Yen shared: "Since I started practicing then singing and playing the zither, I've come to understand the beauty of our ancestors' culture better, and I've come to love the traditional costumes, stilt houses, forests, and mountains of my homeland even more..."

The enthusiasm of the younger generation not only creates a vibrant atmosphere but also serves as a driving force for the older artisans to persistently pass on their knowledge, because they see the future of then singing in the eyes of the younger generation.

The club operates entirely through social funding. The family of photographer Hoang Thao sponsors the practice room, sound system, lighting, props, etc. Members also voluntarily contribute to maintain its activities.

Besides singing Then songs, the club also revived the Bat Dance. This is a unique dance associated with the traditional weaving craft of the Tay people. Dancers hold ceramic bowls and bamboo chopsticks, tapping rhythmically in a soft and cheerful way, mimicking the movements of turning and spinning silk threads. The dance not only recreates a traditional craft but also conveys the aspiration for a bountiful harvest.

Adults teach children.

Ba Be is known for its picturesque landscapes. But when the sounds of the then folk songs resonate amidst the mountain slopes, by the boat docks, in ancient stilt houses, or at the local markets, this cultural value becomes a unique highlight, adding depth to the journey of tourists visiting this land.

In a conversation with us, Ms. Hoang Thi Tue, Head of the Culture Department of Phuc Loc Commune, said: "The club is a shining example in the preservation of Tay ethnic culture. Beyond simply teaching, the model has become a bridge bringing local culture closer to tourists. This opens up a sustainable development direction: tourists can enjoy the living heritage in the original setting of the valley, while local people gain additional income and motivation to preserve their own culture."

In Cho Giai, as the sun sets, clouds from Ba Be Lake drift lazily along the old paths. The gentle sound of the then music continues to resonate, like a small stream flowing through countless seasons. Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, this sound continues to be an anchor preserving cultural identity, allowing the then music from the valley of clouds to continue its far-reaching echoes.

Source: https://baothainguyen.vn/van-hoa/202511/tieng-then-giua-thung-lung-may-ee50348/