The southern gate of Ho Dynasty Citadel.
A longing for the glorious past.
Along with the Hue Imperial Citadel Complex, Hoi An Ancient Town, My Son Sanctuary, and the Thang Long Imperial Citadel in Hanoi, in 2011, the Ho Dynasty Citadel was officially recognized by UNESCO as Vietnam's fifth World Cultural Heritage site, meeting three criteria: unique architecture, advanced construction techniques, and immense historical value. This is what our tour guide from the Ho Dynasty Citadel Heritage Conservation Center shared with us at the beginning of the tour.
The tour guide added that Ho Citadel, also known as An Ton Citadel, Tay Do Citadel, Tay Giai Citadel, etc., was the capital of Dai Ngu during the Ho Dynasty (1400-1407). Although the Ho Dynasty was the shortest-lived dynasty in Vietnamese history (7 years), it left behind a magnificent citadel for posterity.
The southern gate of Ho Dynasty Citadel.
Although built in only three months, the Ho Dynasty Citadel is a prominent symbol of capital city fortifications in Vietnam and Southeast Asia. Its unique feature is that the walls and arched gateways were constructed from massive stone blocks, weighing between 10 and 16 tons, meticulously crafted and stacked securely without any binding material.
The stones used to build the citadel were quarried and processed on-site from limestone mountains such as An Ton and Xuan Dai, located about 2-4km from the citadel. From the high mountains, ancient craftsmen selected large chunks of stone, then drilled and chiseled them, creating grooves between the chunks. Using hand tools such as hammers, wedges, trowels, and levers, they separated the blocks into smaller pieces and chiseled them into square or rectangular blocks, then flattened them to reduce weight for easier transport to the citadel. At the base of the citadel, the craftsmen continued to process and shape the stones to ensure aesthetic appeal before using them for construction.
We strolled along the city wall and were told that, with these enormous stone bricks, the "architects" and "engineers" who built the wall at that time applied simple principles of physics along with tools such as rollers, levers, and inclined planes.
When transporting the stones by land, the workers used human strength and the pulling power of buffaloes and elephants to slide the blocks on a makeshift "conveyor belt" made of wooden axles and round stone rollers. By water, the Ma River and the swamps north of the Imperial Citadel also served as routes for transporting the stones, which were then transported by land into the citadel.
A section of the city wall.
To transport the massive stone slabs weighing tens of tons for the construction of the city walls and gates, the builders built a sturdy, sloping ramp. As the wall was constructed, the ramp was raised and extended to facilitate the stone's ascent. The walls were built with stones arranged in a "cong" (工) shape. On the inner side, the stones were joined together in a crisscross pattern, making the wall strong and stable. Currently, the northeastern wall is the most intact and beautiful, with five rows of tightly stacked stones. The wall has a two-layer structure: the outer layer is stone, and the inner layer is a very thick earthen rampart. Previously, the wall was 6 to 7 meters high, equivalent to 6 to 7 rows of stones. However, over time, much of the wall has been lost, but remarkably, it has not collapsed.
The two headless dragons in Ho Dynasty Citadel.
Standing under the stone archway, our guide from the Ho Citadel Heritage Conservation Center explained that the stone archways were constructed by building earthen mounds in the shape of arches, then using pre-cut trapezoidal stones to fit on top. After fitting, the earth was removed to create the arches. Remarkably, the citadel didn't use any binding material; instead, the stones relied on gravity and the earth's pull to tightly bind them together over time. Although the southern gate is the largest and most beautiful, with its "three-arched gate" architecture, the largest stones are located at the western gate because it's closer to the construction site, An Ton Mountain, which supplied the building materials. Specifically, this gate houses a stone weighing 26.7 tons. Previously, the southern and northern gates also had watchtowers, but over time these have disappeared, though the foundation holes remain on the citadel walls.
According to the tour guide, Ho Citadel was built amidst a landscape of many mountains and rivers, and according to a nearly square plan, with an interior area of almost 77 hectares. Over 600 years have passed, and the architectural relics within the citadel no longer exist, but when excavated, the foundations of the structures remain intact beneath layers of soil and rock.
Awaken the spirit of Thanh Hoa's stone land.
Nestled against the verdant mountains, facing the wind, the majestic Ho Dynasty Citadel stands as an immortal witness to history. However, in our observation, such a wonder is not enough to keep visitors lingering. In reality, tourists often come here as part of tours combined with other tourist destinations in the province, without staying to further appreciate and cherish the rich cultural heritage of this region.
Over the past period, the Ho Citadel Heritage Conservation Center has continuously innovated itself with diverse tourism products such as: taking tourists to visit 10 tourist attractions around the citadel and its outskirts by electric vehicle with a free tour guide.
For just 40,000 VND per person, visitors can not only explore Ho Citadel but also visit the Nam Giao Altar, located 3.5km away, the ancient site of the Heaven Worship Ceremony, with its pure and sacred King's Well used for purification rituals before the ceremony; visit the Temple of Lady Binh Khuong, with its story of her husband's unjust suffering; and visit the ancient house of Mr. Pham Ngoc Tung's family, with its unique architecture and exquisite carvings showcasing the skill and talent of ancient artisans.
In addition, visitors can also visit and admire Giang Pagoda (also known as Thuong Van Temple), built during the reign of King Tran Due Tong (1372-1377), with the legend of this king's thrilling victory over the Champa army.
The temple of Lady Binh Khuong.
However, the above itinerary may still not be enough to encourage visitors to stay longer, while surrounding the town is a space of memories of Cam Bao village, once associated with many traditional cultural and historical values, including the Ngoc Trao guerrilla war zone. Equally impressive are the flavors of home that captivate the heart. There's the bitter leaf soup, a rustic wild vegetable that might seem unappetizing at first glance, but when cooked with pork offal or minced meat, it becomes a unique flavor, brimming with the warmth and authenticity of the people here.
Bitter leaf soup is not for those in a hurry, as diners must eat slowly, allowing the initial bitterness to gradually turn into a sweet aftertaste, just as the warmth of home permeates the heart after seemingly unattainable experiences.
Furthermore, the "nhút" porridge will leave an unforgettable impression on those who try it. Nhút – a pickled jackfruit pulp, cooked with fragrant roasted rice porridge, garnished with roasted peanuts and herbs – is a humble dish that embodies sophistication, showing visitors that the people of Vinh Tien, Vinh Long, can create something wonderful from even the simplest things.
Signposts indicating the attractions within Ho Dynasty Citadel.
Then there's the "rake-shaped" cake - a simple cake wrapped in a dark green leaf, with a layer of smooth, ivory-white dough embracing a filling of meat, wood ear mushrooms, and fragrant pepper. With one bite, the chewiness of the dough blends with the richness of the filling, creating a strangely peaceful feeling.
Moreover, these small, delicate Vinh Loc fermented pork rolls embody the essence of meticulous craftsmanship: perfectly fermented meat, expertly wrapped bananas, a touch of chili, and a few thin slices of garlic, all creating a harmonious blend of sour, spicy, salty, and sweet flavors. These charming little rolls are often a gift, carrying the taste of Thanh Hoa province on long journeys.
Beyond the cuisine, visitors staying here can also see a type of hunting dog considered one of Vietnam's "four great national treasures": the Lai Song Ma dog. The Lai dog is a distinctive, ancient breed, wild yet friendly, renowned for its intelligence and fierce fighting spirit. It was once trained by people to guard villages and preserve the spirit of the homeland.
In particular, this breed of dog is associated with the legend of General Nguyen Xi in the historical victory over the Ming army. Legend says that a loyal Lai dog saved Nguyen Xi's life when he was ambushed and severely wounded. It dragged him out of the battlefield, turned back to bite the enemy soldiers, and sacrificed itself. From then on, Nguyen Xi always regarded this breed of dog as a sacred animal. After his death, many people erected shrines to worship this "sacred dog" as a way of commemorating the absolute loyalty of this breed.
A view of Ho Dynasty Citadel.
It can be said that the area surrounding Ho Citadel is not only an architectural marvel but also a rich cultural tradition of Thanh Hoa province. If these historical sites are connected with the flavors of local cuisine and cultural artifacts, visitors will surely find it hard to remain indifferent.
When every stone tells a story, every dish evokes memories, and every artifact leaves a lasting impression, the footsteps of tourists not only linger but also anchor in their hearts. Cam Bao and Ho Dynasty Citadel in particular, or Vinh Long and Vinh Tien in general, will no longer be fleeting destinations but places tourists want to return to – like returning to a land of memories that is both strange and familiar.
MANH HAO
Source: https://nhandan.vn/ve-voi-di-san-xu-thanh-post921888.html
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