The royal spice blend of Cat Hai Island

HAIPHONG: Combining centuries-old heritage with modern technology, some fish sauce products in Cat Hai are striving to achieve national 5-star OCOP standards, increasing their product value.

Distributing the legacy of 57 small landowners.

From the city center, just a 15-minute drive across the Tan Vu - Lach Huyen sea bridge, the distinctive aroma of cooked fish and sea salt fills the air. Amidst the hustle and bustle of an international logistics service center, the centuries-old traditional fish sauce village is facing a historical turning point as three Quang Hai brand fish sauce products are being considered for 5-star recognition by the National OCOP Product Evaluation Council.

The fish sauce on Cat Hai Island today originates from the once-famous Van Van brand, which dates back centuries and has even been featured in poetry. Photo: Dinh Muoi.

Looking back at history, fish sauce making in Cát Hải is not only a livelihood but also a vital part of the cultural lifeblood of the people of this port city. The old saying, "La cucumbers, Láng mint, Báng spring rolls, Bần soy sauce, Vạn Vân fish sauce, Đầm Sét perch," established the Vạn Vân brand, the predecessor of today's Cát Hải fish sauce, with approximately 40 family-scale fish sauce production facilities and 3 large-scale enterprises.

From a simple condiment found in family kitchens, fish sauce from Cat Hai Island has risen to become a renowned brand thanks to its rich, distinctive salty flavor. Often referred to as the "perfume of the sea," this condiment carries the intoxicating aroma of sunshine, wind, and ocean waves. While it may not appeal to everyone, it fosters absolute loyalty among those who have fallen in love with it. Amidst the dominance of industrially produced fish sauce, the people of Hai Phong's coastal region still prioritize traditional purity. For them, a bottle of Cat Hai Island fish sauce is not just a condiment, but the "soul" of their meals, accompanying those who have left their homeland to preserve the authentic taste of their hometown.

Mr. Pham Van Nhan, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Cat Hai Seafood Processing Joint Stock Company, shared that the soul of Cat Hai Island's fish sauce today is the convergence of the wisdom of 57 small business owners since 1959. "We inherited the secrets passed down through generations from the Ly Dynasty, combined with the experience of dozens of the most talented artisans in the region to create a unique and unparalleled brand of fish sauce," Mr. Nhan said.

Mr. Pham Van Nhan, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Cat Hai Seafood Processing Joint Stock Company, enthusiastically shared with a reporter from the Agriculture and Environment Newspaper about the traditional fish sauce making of the people on Cat Hai Island. Photo: Dinh Muoi.

The core difference of Cat Hai fish sauce lies in its "sun-baked, dew-bathed" technique. Unlike Southern fish sauce, which is mainly fermented in traditional fermentation houses, Cat Hai fish sauce is exposed to the harsh sun and salty winds of the Gulf of Tonkin inside earthenware jars and pots. The sweeter well water from Don Luong, Hoa Hy, Luc Do, and Luong Nang, combined with the intense sunlight, helps the enzymes in the fish to work vigorously, creating the clear amber color and the deep, sweet aftertaste of natural fish protein.

Despite its rich heritage, traditional fish sauce once faced defeat in its home market against a wave of cheap, mild-smelling industrial sauces. To survive, leading businesses like Quang Hai and Cat Hai have invested and diligently studied to apply science to unlock the weaknesses of traditional fish sauce. By 2026, fish sauce from Cat Hai Island will no longer be found in simple glass bottles sealed with banana leaves, but will have been upgraded to a new level with modern packaging, labeling, and technology.

For example, at Quang Hai Co., Ltd., the result of years of change and investment is groundbreaking product lines such as: 56% protein tuna fish sauce and Dong Quyen fish sauce. These products no longer have a harsh, salty taste but have become delicate, sweet, and meet the stringent standards of the high-end customer segment while still retaining the rich, authentic "essence" of Cat Island fish sauce.

Cat Hai fish sauce has a very distinctive flavor, often richer and saltier than many other types of fish sauce, but those who are used to that flavor usually find it hard to switch to something else. Photo: Dinh Muoi.

To achieve 5-star status, the quality management process has been upgraded to international standards. The company has implemented the 5S system, directly trained by Japanese experts, combined with ISO and HACCP standards. Every stage, from selecting fresh mackerel and scad at the dock to the automated bottling process, is strictly controlled using modern machinery, minimizing manual labor and eliminating ammonia (rotten protein) content.

The aspiration for a national "golden drop" of talent.

Mr. Bui Trac Vinh, Director of Quang Hai Co., Ltd., said: “Traditional fish sauce has always been very salty due to its high salt content for preservation. With new technology, after the fish sauce has matured for 12-24 months, it will be put into a salt separation system at a temperature of only 40 degrees Celsius. This process helps to remove excess salt, retaining the most essential protein content. A 5-star OCOP product must embody the image of a national cultural ambassador.”

Currently, out of the company's 12 OCOP products, 3 key products have been submitted to the Central Council in Hanoi for evaluation with the highest star rating. This is a passport for Cat Hai fish sauce to further penetrate demanding markets. Many Cat Hai fish sauce products have spread throughout the northern provinces and are available in major supermarket chains such as Co.op Mart, Big C, WinMart... nationwide. However, the ambitions of the craft village do not stop there; after being recognized as an OCOP product, fish sauce producers in Cat Hai are planning to bring their products to foreign markets.

Mr. Bui Trac Vinh (right in the photo) and an employee of Quang Hai Co., Ltd. introduce to the reporter a fish sauce product that is being proposed to the National OCOP Product Evaluation and Classification Council for 5-star recognition. Photo: Dinh Muoi.

Cat Hai fish sauce is the culmination of the sun and wind of the open sea, human patience, and scientific ingenuity. Over the years, the rise of the fish sauce industry has completely transformed the face of the Cat Hai Special Economic Zone. This industry now provides employment for thousands of workers, both directly and indirectly, through the supply chain of raw fish from fishermen. Many young people, after graduating from university, have chosen to return to their hometown, bringing with them a digital transformation mindset and modern marketing skills to continue the family business.

Looking ahead, if a national 5-star OCOP product is achieved, the amber-colored fish sauce will not only bring prosperity to the people of the coastal region but also continue the legend of Van Van, sparkling like stars and enduring like the ocean waves. Leaving Cat Hai, the image of the rows of fermentation vats in Quang Hai, Cat Hai, silently "bathing in the sun" to carefully extract the nectar of the sea, remains present like a wordless symphony of an island region that has never known defeat, aspiration to reach the world stage for a culinary gem of Vietnam in the new era.

Currently, within the Cat Hai Special Economic Zone, there are approximately 40 family-scale fish sauce production facilities and 3 large-scale enterprises. Among them, Cat Hai Seafood Processing Joint Stock Company produces about 5 million liters of fish sauce annually, Quang Hai Company Limited produces about 900,000 to 1 million liters per year, and Cat Ba fish sauce produces over 200,000 liters per year.

Source: https://nongnghiepmoitruong.vn/vuong-pham-gia-vi-man-moi-dao-cat-hai-d803778.html