Hanoi enters winter with drizzle and cold winds of the changing seasons. Thisweather easily makes people think of a drinking party with hot dishes still steaming. A pot of braised carp and pickled cabbage hotpot is probably also a suitable choice.
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Braised carp with pickled cabbage |
Cao Thi Nga |
In the countryside, children used to catch fish themselves, sometimes carp, sometimes catfish, sometimes a whole bunch of different kinds. Cooking fish with pickles seems to go well together, sour and spicy, very good with rice.
Nowadays, in the middle of the city, the rustic things of the past are brought to the drinking table as a snack. Although the form has changed a bit, the taste remains the same.
I have a friend from the same hometown, at his birthday party he invited us to a restaurant called Quan La in Gia Lam near where he rented a house. One interesting thing here is that all the seafood is fresh and swimming in large tanks like a lake in the middle of the restaurant. Customers can choose the dishes, show the staff to catch the fish and then they prepare the dishes.
Of course there were many other dishes that day, but the most impressive dish was the braised carp hotpot with pickled cabbage. Perhaps it reminded me of the hard-working memories of catching crabs and fish as a child. Or maybe it was just a delicious dish that people would remember.
It is not too difficult for me to figure out how to do it. Choose fresh, short and thick carp, then it is a local carp, not a hybrid. Scale, remove the gills and wash with salt, vinegar (or lemon) and white wine. This preparation method will remove the fishy smell of the fish. Use a sharp knife to make a few dragon scale-shaped cuts on the fish body and marinate with turmeric, chili, minced ginger and spices for about 30 minutes.
Pickled cabbage must have the right acidity. After rinsing the cabbage, squeeze it dry and stir-fry it with garlic, onions and tomatoes. When the cabbage is done, add the marinated fish and simmer until the fish is cooked. When eating, leave it on the stove to boil and dip in herbs, lettuce, dill and fresh onions. The broth is delicious with noodles.
Another way is to fry the fish first and then put it in the hot pot, but I personally prefer not frying it because it will keep the sweetness and original flavor of the fish, it is light and not greasy.
The whole family sat around the hot pot table, slurping bowls of sweet vermicelli with braised fish broth, slightly sour cucumber stalks and the aroma of herbs, it was extremely appealing. The white pieces of fish were removed, dipped in garlic and chili sauce, making an irresistible spicy appetizer.
My friend passed away more than 6 years ago due to a sudden illness. I have never had the chance to return to Quan La again and I don’t know if it still exists. But every time I make braised carp with pickled cabbage, I feel nostalgic, thinking about that place and my friend.
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