Making fish sauce is quite an elaborate process, isn't it?

In the ancient fishing village of Man Thai, where only a few households still cling to the traditional craft of making fish sauce, Mr. Huynh Van Muoi (Son Tra district) still diligently works day after day beside jars of fish sauce brimming with the aroma of the sea. For him, fish sauce is not just a means of livelihood, but also a part of the soul of his homeland, a specialty deeply intertwined with the culture of the fishing village for generations.

1. Uncle Mười recounted that the word "nhỉ" in "mắm nhỉ" (fermented fish sauce) actually originates from the word "rỉ" (to leak). In the old days, fermented fish sauce was aged in earthenware jars. Over time, exposed to sun and wind, the jars cracked, and the sauce inside leaked out drop by drop. The people of Mân Thái fishing village, regretting wasting this precious liquid, collected it in small bowls. Later, to ferment more fish sauce, larger earthenware jars, cement vats, or oak barrels appeared. But the larger the jar, the more difficult it became to tilt, empty, or clean it. So, people drilled a small hole near the bottom of the jar – called a "lù" hole – both for cleaning and to allow the sauce to flow out easily. The sauce leaked out from there, dripping (tinting) drop by drop, hence the name "mắm nhỉ." The word "rỉ" became "nhỉ." Over time, the word "rỉ" gradually fell into oblivion, leaving only the familiar name "mắm nhỉ" as it is today.

Mr. Mười explains to the students about the fish sauce making craft of the fishermen of Mân Thái. Photo: Archival material.

Many people mistakenly think that "nhị" is a tilde because they mistakenly believe "mắm nhỉ" and "mắm nhĩ" are the same, but there are actually differences between them. The fish sauce flows naturally through the drain hole at the bottom of the jar without any intervention; the fishermen of Mân Thái village named their fish sauce "mắm nhỉ" based on this characteristic. Meanwhile, "mắm nhĩ," also known as filtered fish sauce, undergoes a separate filtering process. A bamboo funnel, lined with a cloth, is poured in, and each drop of sauce is filtered and absorbed through the membrane. It is this filtering membrane – similar to the eardrum in the ear – that gives it the name "mắm nhĩ."

Nowadays, few people remember the origin of the name "mắm nhỉ" (fermented fish sauce), but for long-time fish sauce makers like Uncle Mười, each drop of mắm nhỉ carries the long story of the fish sauce making tradition of their homeland.

2. "Many types of fish are salted to make fish sauce, but none taste as good as anchovies salted with black anchovies," Uncle Mười asserted. From spiny mackerel, scad, tuna, or red anchovies, striped anchovies... but as our ancestors have said for generations, many folk songs, proverbs, and idioms refer to the idea of ​​compatibility; one thing must go hand in hand with another to be considered correct and proper.

Many people are allergic to anchovies made from spiny mackerel or scad; mackerel is expensive, so few people use it for making fish sauce; red anchovies or striped anchovies, due to their firm flesh and slow decomposition, are more suitable for making quick fish sauce or whole anchovy fish sauce, and are not as fragrant or salty when used for making fish sauce. In comparison, although belonging to the same anchovy family, black anchovies decompose quickly, have more flesh, are softer, and when fermented, produce a fish sauce with a light flavor and a naturally sweet aftertaste, making them the preferred choice for making fish sauce. In particular, Uncle Mười, as well as the villagers of Mân Thái fishing village, have traditionally used only fresh black anchovies harvested in March and April – when the fish are fattest, have the most roe, and are the most nutritious.

According to Uncle Mười's experience, freshly caught fish doesn't need washing; it's immediately put into jars and salted at a ratio of 3 parts fish to 1 part salt to preserve the full salty flavor of the sea. It must be fermented for at least 12 months before it's ready to be made into fish sauce. Any fish sauce that hasn't become fragrant after 12 months is not ready to be made. How can you tell? From looking at it, observing its color, to smelling it and tasting its flavor.

If the fish sauce is released too quickly, the quality will not be guaranteed, and if it's not fermented long enough, it will develop a fishy smell. It's fermented for 1-2 months, until the fish starts to decompose. At this point, the jar is opened and stirred. It must be stirred daily, consistently for 12 months. The more sunshine, the better and more fragrant the fish sauce becomes. The aroma can vary; consumers and buyers may find it fragrant, but in the eyes of professionals, it may not be up to standard. If after 12 months the fish sauce is not yet satisfactory, it will be fermented for another 3 months.

Fish sauce (mắm nhỉ) is produced more slowly than filtered fish sauce (mắm lọc) because it retains almost all of the sediment (the solids) from the fish and salt. This results in a clearer color, a stronger aroma, and a higher nutritional content. On average, one liter of filtered fish sauce can be obtained in one hour, but it takes 20-48 hours to produce the same amount of fish sauce (mắm nhỉ), and the yield is only about one-third of the initial amount of fish and salt. 10 kg of fish yields approximately 2.5 liters of fish sauce (mắm nhỉ), while filtered fish sauce (mắm lọc) can yield up to 4 liters.

"Mắm nhỉ" is related to other types of fish sauce such as shrimp paste, fermented fish paste, quick-fermented fish paste, sweet and sour fish paste, etc. Uncle Mười calls them all "fish sauce" because they are made literally from fish and salt.

3. Not only is he knowledgeable about fish sauce, Mr. Huynh Van Muoi is also a keeper and storyteller of tales about the sea and the ancient fishing village through his mementos. "Man Thai"—two simple words, yet they encapsulate the beliefs and life of a man born and raised by the sea like him. From the engine he bought from his father to install on his boat, which still has its original paperwork and is nearly 60 years old, to the earthenware jars over 100 years old, the carrying baskets for fish sauce, the chopsticks… all are cherished by him like treasures, silently recounting a time of hardship at sea, yet also filled with pride.

And Uncle Mười continues to share memories of the ancient fishing village of Mân Thái with anyone who wants to hear the story of the sea, through the display of artifacts and models of maritime culture that bear the strong imprint of local history, which he cherishes and preserves.

THU HUONG

Source: https://baodanang.vn/channel/5433/202505/cong-phu-nghe-lam-mam-nhi-4006286/