Night squid fishing season

Riding the waves out to sea

Watching the women gaze intently out at the sea, as their boats and their men gradually disappeared into the distance, I felt a pang of anxiety in my heart. Witnessing firsthand the fishermen's intense concentration as they steered their boats through the waves, I truly understood the immeasurable hardship of this near-shore fishing profession.

Summer, the season for going to sea, the season for squid fishing. It's the season of "earning a living" for fishermen, but it's also the season of strong southerly winds, forcing them to struggle against fierce waves to maintain their grip on the rudder and brave the waves to catch seafood. The stronger the wind blows, the more the boats sway; from the shore, it seems as though the waves could swallow the rocking boats whole. But with their experience and strength, the fishermen still firmly steer their boats against the waves, heading out to sea.

It seems that all the fishermen with boats in Phu Dien fishing village are working at maximum capacity to catch squid. They set sail in the late afternoon and return the next morning. Even on humid days with strong waves, they always keep a steady hand at the helm to go out to sea and earn extra income.

“Seeing the rough waves and strong winds is one thing, but once we get past the waves crashing against the shore and out to sea, the water calms down. Although squid fishing isn't done with a crew, each person fishes independently, but we always keep in touch and check on each other to prevent any incidents, so there's nothing too worrying,” reassured Mr. Cang (Phu Dien, Phu Vang). Then, with his strong arms outstretched, he used the force of the water to propel his boat out to sea as a wave crashed against the shore, quickly kicked off the side of the boat, started the engine, and headed out to sea. Mr. Cang's supplies included a bottle of filtered water, a bowl of rice, some food, a net, and fishing gear.

Around 5 a.m., the boats began to dock, but before 4 a.m., the women of the fishing village were already calling out to each other as they headed out to sea, waiting for the boats to return. The sea was still dark, but in the distance, the bright green lights of dozens of fishing boats could be seen.

In the stories they told each other, summer was not only the season when seafood was expensive, providing more delicious dishes for them to cook for their husbands and children to take to the beach, but also the season of worries and restless sleep as their men spent nights out at sea.

Each time a boat docks, the sun-tanned faces of the women of the fishing village light up, like the dawn breaking over the sea. Their joy comes from the safe return of their family's breadwinners after a long night at sea.

Sea bounty

For fishermen who fish near the shore along the Phu Vang coast, the squid fishing season is a time of hard work at sea, but also a time of decent income, averaging from 1 million to 1.5 million VND per night.

“It’s tough crossing the waves, but once you’re a kilometer out, you can cast your line. Sitting and fishing isn’t too hard; the hardest part is staying awake all night, and occasionally spotting fish swimming under the spotlight and quickly netting them. When you hit a school of squid, casting your line and reeling in the squid is incredibly satisfying. The equipment consists of bamboo fishing rods, longer than an arm’s length. When the bait is dropped, there’s a cluster of hooks underneath. The squid are attracted to the light, and the baits float in the water; they mistake them for real bait and get caught. Squid are attracted to light and are eager for bait. They’ll come towards the light and never give up once they see the bait, so we just cast the line, occasionally jerking the line to make the hooks move up and down, like a fish swimming. Squid fishing is that simple. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch one in just a few minutes; otherwise, you’ll have to wait an hour,” despite returning after a sleepless night, Mr. Thang (Phu Dien) still cheerfully shared. Share.

Looking at the still-sparkling squid neatly arranged in rectangular baskets, sorted by size, one can truly appreciate how much the fishermen value their hard work. Earning money from the sea is never easy, whether the sea is calm or the windy season.

At 6 a.m., the sun was already shining brightly, illuminating the entire beach. The last squid fishing boats finally docked, some with as little as 3kg, others with around 5kg. After helping their husbands bring the boats ashore, the women busily carried baskets of fresh squid to sell at the morning market, while the fishermen leisurely packed up their gear, striding confidently and healthily across the beach to return home for a restful sleep, ready for the next fishing trip in the evening.

“Those of us who work in the nearshore fishing villages of Phu Dien are starting to get older, and there are quite a few young people taking over. But, our generation had no other profession besides fishing; we fell in love with the sea without even realizing it. If we don't go, we feel a sense of loss, a restlessness in our hands and feet. Now, they have more choices, and I don't know if they can stay committed to this profession of year-round sailing, battling waves, wind, and water. The sea is seasonal; some days we're lucky, some days we're unlucky. We're not rich, but we're not bad either. If you work hard, you'll make a fortune. Earning millions of dong a day is common. It's the same with any profession; manual labor is hard work, but seeing the fruits of our labor each day, the fresh, glistening produce we bring home, is very rewarding. Even more joyful is seeing my wife waiting with a radiant smile when the boat docks!”

And so, the life of a fisherman, though full of hardships, was also peaceful and happy.

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