Some friends who left their hometown a long time ago, upon returning to Nha Trang, often ask: "Is that place still there? The city is so different now." People, living in nostalgia, often don't want change, like clinging to a schoolgirl crush, a lingering, unceasing longing in their hearts.
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| Morning in Nha Trang. |
Therefore, those who left decades ago, upon returning, try to rediscover the old places, the places where their youth passed. Then they sigh with regret: "The city is so crowded now." And of course, nostalgic cafes, such as the "Purple Afternoon" cafe on Ba Trieu Street, are no longer there. Not only the cafes, but the streets have changed, the avenues have changed, only the memories seem to remain.
Over the years, through countless seasons of rain and sunshine, Nha Trang remains a charming seaside city, making those who leave Nha Trang, or those who visit briefly, long to return. It's not just the entertainment options that Nha Trang offers, perfect for a few days' stay, but Nha Trang itself, on every sidewalk and every street, evokes a sense of nostalgia in everyone. Like us, for one reason or another, having to leave the city for a while, when returning on a bus, just passing the Citadel or Dong De Street, we can't help but turn our heads to look back at the streets, knowing we've finally arrived.
Remember, sometimes it's just a street with houses and doors slightly ajar at the corner, like Co Bac Street, Co Loa Street, Vo Tru Street? Remember the incessant rain, going out just to watch the rain. Remember the season of flamboyant trees, walking along the street where the flowers are in full bloom.
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| Sea grapevines on Tran Phu Street. |
The other day, I met a woman in her 50s who spoke with a strong English accent, as if trying to show off her knowledge because she was an overseas Vietnamese. At first, I was a little annoyed, but after talking to her, I understood that she had been away from home for almost 40 years, and her longing for Nha Trang was deeply ingrained in her memory. She recalled her childhood, when three of them could only afford to share a single ice cream cone at the beach during the summer. Just one-third of an ice cream cone, made in a cooler, became a cherished memory. She mentioned sharing a single Vietnamese pancake (banh xeo) between two people – half a pancake from nearly 40 years ago, yet it tasted infinitely better than the plate of shrimp and pork pancakes she had on her return. She then asked, "Are there any houses in Nha Trang that grow star fruit trees?" Surprised, she explained that as a child, she used to pick ripe star fruit to eat, and the aroma and sweetness were still vividly etched in her memory. Suddenly, I realized that star fruit trees were almost nonexistent in the city, making that longing a luxury. I wonder if she's found the star fruit tree yet to savor the taste of the old days?
Nha Trang is a route that goes around Dong De, past the highway, then back to the city center via 23rd October Street. It's a chance to stop at Thanh to eat banh uot (steamed rice rolls) by the plate, or to grab a cheap cup of che ba ba (a type of sweet soup) at a roadside stall, or to wander down the streets to Vinh Trung and Vinh Phuong to admire the rows of betel nut trees, rice paddies, and flower gardens in front of the old houses.
It's in the night, hearing the train whistle announcing its arrival at the station. In the stillness of the night, hearing the temple bells. It's strolling down Tran Phu Street to see if the fruit trees have turned red yet. It's the soothing sound of a guitar in the shady garden, a familiar melody reminding us of a memory we thought had faded into the distant past. And perhaps, it's the hand waving goodbye, then not having the chance to meet again amidst the torrential rain and wind. Just that alone is enough to evoke longing.
KHUE VIET TRUONG
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