5 emerging fashion labels that are making fashionistas crazy

5 emerging fashion labels that are making fashionistas crazy

Florania

Founded by Flora Rabitti in 2021, Florania is an independent, genderless and seasonless ready-to-wear brand, handmade between Milan and Mantua with a very particular motto of "solar punk" or punk. Florania's fall/winter 2024 "Two Moons" collection evokes a magical and mysterious world, inspired by the stories of Haruki Murakami and Japanese cinema, where mysterious characters blend with natural and grotesque elements. The prints are hand-painted by the designer while the pieces include tailored jackets, stitched patchwork suits, recycled cashmere sweaters and denim. The new streetwear items in collaboration with SPAARKD are certified innovative and made with sustainable materials. The accessories designed by jewelry designer Margherita Potenza include recycled metal details. Fabrics sourced from Japanese partners such as Sakura Collection and Kyocera Corporation tell stories of rebirth and transformation. Each garment is made in Italy following a regenerative design philosophy, with production lines based on Social Ateliers.

Institution

Institution is the new creative project of Galib Gassanoff, a Georgian-born designer who co-founded and co-designed ACT N°1 in 2016 through the SS 2023 fashion show. The brand is a multidisciplinary project that will operate as an ethically based social art organization. The launch of the project took place with a presentation inside the Secci Art Gallery, with garments hanging on the walls to provide a detailed look at the craftsmanship and construction of the pieces, most of which were made by the designer himself. Most of the collections are made from natural fibers such as silk, cotton, wool and leather. The materials are sourced from the warehouses and inventories of high-end manufacturers, so each item is limited in quantity. The hand-weaving technique used is taken from the designer’s community of origin, the Azeris of Georgia, and uses cotton binding instead of the wool of traditional rugs. As this skill is at risk of being lost, the designer intends to support the generational transition by involving local women's communities in the creation of collections, ensuring their use.

Zoomer

Zomer, a name derived from the Dutch word for “summer”, is a Dutch brand founded by Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha, characterized by kaleidoscopic colors, unexpected textures and experimental silhouettes, balancing a sense of childlike playfulness with a high level of sophistication. For their second collection, they explored the world of vibrant colors and the combination of 2D and 3D elements. This exploration was the starting point that resulted in a line that reflects the designers’ admiration for artistic expression and design. The brand offers a complete collection of ready-to-wear clothing, focusing on craftsmanship, color and shape. ECCO Leather supplies the leather used for the entire collection while Knitwearlab supplies the jerseys.

Duran lantink

Based in Amsterdam and Paris, Duran Lantink combines existing materials with innovative, low-impact materials, creating ever-evolving shapes and silhouettes. The autumn/winter 2024 collection “Duran-ski”, presented at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, is a conceptual interpretation of leisurewear for those who practice luxury winter sports. The shapes of knitwear and outerwear are taken to the extreme, and in collaboration with Knitwear Lab, yarns have been crafted to create puff-shouldered jumpsuits and thigh-high boots inspired by the suits worn by Dutch firefighters in the ’70s. The shapes and cuts of the ’80s are reinterpreted with broad, forward-facing shoulders, contrasting with fabric jackets pieced together from used ski jackets and fleece jackets made from discarded sheepskin. The brand often experiments with cross-designs and classic pieces from Loewe and Margiela to form the basis for new shapes.

Meryll Roger

Based in Belgium, Meryll Rogge combines the simplicity of menswear with women's evening wear, expressing a diverse style. Femininity is the foundation of the brand, for free-spirited women who support individuality. Meryll Rogge studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and after working for Marc Jacobs in New York and Dries Van Noten in Antwerp, she decided to start her own brand. In 2021, she received the Belgian Fashion Award as an emerging designer and the following year she was nominated for the 2022 LVMH Prize. Meryll Rogge's autumn/winter 2024 collection is the brand's fourth launch and evokes a desire to party. The looks combine underground style with new rhythmic settings, from floral prints to sequined jackets and dresses, from sportswear like hoods to shiny Lurex dresses. The allure of prints is juxtaposed with the overlap of scarves, raincoats and vinyl dresses. The collection is a continuation of more glamorous and casual pieces, with petal-patterned satin shirts and diamond-embroidered knit sweaters.