The Story of Chinese Pho in Japan

In the middle of Tokyo, Pho Trung restaurant has been a popular destination for not only Japanese diners or overseas Vietnamese, but also a gathering place for Vietnamese food lovers from all over the world.

Pho Trung sign in Japan - Photo: FBNV

When I meet Japanese friends, I introduce myself as Pho Trung , my friends exclaim: "Oh, I've eaten it, I love it." In Japan, there are hundreds of Vietnamese restaurants, but when it comes to Pho Trung, many people remember it, that's what makes me happiest.

Mr. Nguyen Tat Trung

Chef Nguyen Tat Trung

Chef Nguyen Tat Trung - 60 years old, from Hai Duong - has more than 20 years of experience cooking pho in Japan.

When Mr. Trung first arrived in Japan, the number of Vietnamese restaurants could be counted on one hand, but now there are hundreds of shops selling Vietnamese food in Tokyo. And whenever Vietnamese food is mentioned, Japanese people exclaim: Pho!

Fate with the kitchen, fate with Japan

In the 1980s of the last century, after completing his mission as a volunteer soldier in Cambodia, Mr. Trung returned to Ho Chi Minh City, studying at the tourism and hotel training center (now Saigontourist College of Tourism and Hotel). He was a good student so he was given priority for an internship at the Rex Hotel and then was hired directly for seven years.

His fate changed when Mr. Trung was sent to Japan to cook Vietnamese food. Normally, chefs who go to Japan only work for a little over a year and then return. But in six months, Chef Trung learned basic Japanese and had a knack for decorating dishes... so he was kept on. After more than 13 years as a head chef, Mr. Trung had the opportunity to realize his long-cherished dream: opening his own restaurant in the heart of Tokyo.

And so, in 2014, Pho Trung was born: "When it comes to Vietnamese cuisine , Japanese people as well as international visitors know the most about pho. So when opening a restaurant, I chose the name Pho Trung so that everyone can easily remember. The restaurant has many dishes, all famous dishes in Vietnam are available, not just pho."

The thorns of starting a business in a foreign land

Beef Pho at Pho Trung

Mr. Trung's early years were difficult, and it was not easy to bring Vietnamese ingredients and spices. Especially pho, to have a delicious bowl of pho, you need all the typical spices, so in the beginning, Mr. Trung had to import ingredients from all over.

Having the ingredients is difficult, choosing a business philosophy is even more difficult. When he was the head chef of a Japanese restaurant, the customers were very crowded, everyone praised the Vietnamese dishes. So when starting his business, Mr. Trung confidently "copied" the model of this restaurant with the expectation that customers would also flock in like that.

But both Vietnamese and Japanese who had lived in Vietnam criticized the original dish of Pho Trung. The biggest criticism was that the pho was not the same as in Vietnam. After many sleepless nights, Mr. Trung realized that he had always cooked Vietnamese food in a restaurant for Japanese people, so he adjusted the spices to the Japanese style, and the dish pleased the majority.

Mr. Trung decided to change. He cooked Northern pho or Hue beef noodle soup, Nam Vang noodle soup with regional standards: "From then on, customers accepted, came to eat and nodded 'oh yes, it's pho'. Only then did I see the value of pure Vietnamese food. Trung pho has attracted and retained customers until now."

Mr. Trung said the Japanese are very curious, they ask carefully what pho is made of, rice or wheat, where the rice is bought, why the pho broth is so sweet, why the bone broth doesn't have the smell of bones...

"The Japanese ask a lot of questions, but the more they ask, the more opportunities I have to let them know more about Vietnamese culinary culture . That Vietnamese cuisine is as good and unique as any other country's," Mr. Trung said. Pho Trung is prestigious and famous. Currently, in addition to focusing on the restaurant, Mr. Trung also trains chefs, guides how to cook pho, and arranges restaurants for anyone who wants to open a Vietnamese restaurant in Japan.

After eight years of opening his own Vietnamese restaurant in Japan, what makes Mr. Trung most proud is that the dishes are now authentic, with standard quantities and no deviations in taste: "We use machines to weigh every little bit, instead of seasoning based on our feelings. How many liters of water, how many kilograms of bones, how many spices... are all very clear, so year after year, the flavor remains original, still purely Vietnamese and is loved by diners."

When meeting the delegation of Tuoi Tre newspaper on a survey trip to Tokyo, Mr. Trung said he was very proud of the pho festival and was ready to join hands and contribute. According to Mr. Trung, Tuoi Tre newspaper bringing the pho festival to Japan is a great opportunity for the quintessence of Vietnamese culinary culture and pho in particular to reach the Japanese people and international tourists in Japan.

Mr. Nguyen Tat Trung during the experience sharing session with domestic pho shops participating in Vietnam Pho Festival 2023 - Photo: QUANG DINH

On October 7 and 8, at Yoyogi Park (Tokyo, Japan), the Vietnam Pho Festival 2023 will take place, co-organized by Tuoi Tre newspaper and Saigon Tourist Corporation, with the participation of chefs, golden star anise from years such as: Nguyen Tien Hai, Nguyen Tu Tin, Pham Quang Duy... and chefs of famous pho restaurants: Pho Dau, Ba Ban Pho Hai Thien, Hotel Majestic Saigon, Phu Gia, Pho'S, Sen SASCO, Pho Ta, Binh Tay Food, Thin Bo Ho, Pho VGCC... The program is co-organized by Saigon Tourist Corporation, with the support of the Embassy of Vietnam in Japan - Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Vietnam, Vietnam - Japan Friendship Association of Ho Chi Minh City, and Japanese friends such as Mr. Aoyagi Yoichiro - member of the House of Representatives, Manichi newspaper. The program is accompanied by Vietnam Airlines, Suntory Beverage & Food, Simply Food, SASCO, Dai-ichi Life, ALSOK... The reigning Miss Intercontinental Le Nguyen Bao Ngoc is the official ambassador, accompanying and participating in the program's activities.

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