Preserving the "soul of the land, the taste of the homeland" through the traditional fermented fish making craft.

Amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, in Tien Lu commune, Phu Tho province, the traditional craft of making fermented fish continues to thrive and develop. More than just a simple dish on the everyday dinner table, Tien Lu fermented fish has long been a source of pride and a culinary "ambassador" for every holiday, Tet (Lunar New Year), and family gathering. Behind its tangy, fragrant flavor lies a story of adaptation, creativity, and love for heritage among the farmers of this lowland region.

Ms. Tran Thi Thuc, from Minh Chu village, Tien Lu commune, has been involved in the fermented fish making profession for nearly 40 years.

The art of meticulous attention to detail, stemming from the "soul" of the homeland.

Tien Lu commune has a low-lying terrain, and during the rainy season, the rice fields are frequently flooded, allowing the villagers to cultivate only one rice crop per year. However, nature has bestowed upon this land abundant natural aquatic resources. To solve the problem of not being able to sell the fish they catch quickly enough, the people have created a method of salting the fish with fermented rice bran.

Born and raised in Minh Chu village, Tien Lu commune, Mrs. Tran Thi Thuc has been involved in the fish-making profession for nearly 40 years. For her, fermented fish is not just a food item, but the "soul" of her homeland. She confided: "To have delicious batches of fermented fish, those in the profession must put their heart and soul into it. From selecting fresh carp, crucian carp, and catfish that are not too large to easily absorb the spices, to the initial processing, everything requires absolute care."

The process of making Tien Lu fermented fish is a testament to the skill of the local farmers. After cleaning, the fish are thoroughly salted to remove the fishy smell and firm up the flesh. However, the key to its uniqueness lies in the golden-brown coating of fermented rice. Made from roasted and crushed corn or rice, this coating requires finesse to ensure the grains are evenly cooked, fragrant, and neither burnt nor undercooked. The combination of the rich, nutty corn flour and the subtly fragrant rice flour creates a distinct flavor for each batch of fermented fish.

The skill is also evident in the fish fermentation process. The people of Tien Lu have their own secret to ensuring the fish "ripens" naturally in an airtight environment. They usually line the jar with clean palm leaves, use tightly rolled glutinous rice straw, and bamboo strips to compress the mouth of the jar. A layer of guava, fig, or mulberry leaves is also placed at the bottom of the jar to create aroma, prevent mold, and deter insects. The fermentation process lasts from 7 to 10 days, or even up to several months depending on the type of fish, allowing the fish to turn a plum-red color and become firm without any chemical preservatives. It is this meticulous attention to detail in every step, from the knives, cutting boards, basins, and jars to the hands of the processors, that has built the reputation of the fermented fish from this region.

Before salting, fresh fish must be thoroughly cleaned.

Cultural identity in the flow of time

Ms. Dang Thi Luan, over 70 years old and residing in Minh Chu village, who has spent over 50 years "handling" fermented fish, shared: "The origin of this dish comes from the flood seasons in May and October of the lunar calendar. Back then, the market was far away, and there were no boats, so people had no choice but to prepare the fish with salt, fermented rice powder, and guava leaves. This specialty dish has a rich, sweet flavor, with fragrant and crispy fermented rice powder, becoming a taste of childhood for generations of people in Tien Lu."

Not just confined to family gatherings, Tien Lu fermented fish has now become a sought-after specialty gift for tourists from near and far. Ms. Tran Thi Thu Huong, a tourist from Hanoi, happily shared: "Enjoying a piece of fermented fish grilled over charcoal, the rich aroma of roasted rice flour combined with the naturally tangy taste awakens the taste buds. It's a truly unique culinary experience, a perfect combination of the saltiness of the salt, the richness of the fish, and the slight astringency of the accompanying guava and fig leaves."

Households engaged in this trade in Tien Lu have proactively improved processing procedures, focusing on labeling and packaging, thereby promoting the Tien Lu fermented fish brand.

In the context of an increasingly diverse food market, households engaged in this craft in Tien Lu have proactively improved their processes, focusing on labeling and packaging to make their products more professional while still preserving their traditional essence. This dish now appears not only on the family dinner tables of the local community but also in restaurants and eateries in Hanoi and many neighboring provinces and cities.

Tien Lu fermented fish - a unique dish from the midland region of Phu Tho province.

The value of the fermented fish making craft lies not only in its economic aspect but also in its role as a link between the past and the present. It is a testament to folk wisdom and cultural identity that deserves to be cherished and promoted. By preserving the fermented fish making craft, the people of Tien Lu not only preserve the "soul of the land and the taste of the countryside" but also contribute to spreading the value of Vietnamese cuisine to the community.

If you have the chance to visit the Tien Lu lowland area, you will have the opportunity to personally press each piece of fermented fish, and listen to simple stories about the love for the land and people embedded in this rustic local delicacy. In each golden-brown piece of fermented fish, diners not only feel the skill and diligence of the local people but also perceive the depth of culture of this traditionally rich midland region.

Ngoc Thang

Source: https://baophutho.vn/giu-hon-dat-vi-que-qua-nghe-lam-ca-thinh-truyen-thong-255032.htm