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Impersonating fashion to "coerce" culture.

Báo Sài Gòn Giải phóngBáo Sài Gòn Giải phóng20/05/2023


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Over the past few days, images of a fashion show called "New Tradition," featuring models wearing designs inspired by the traditional Vietnamese bodice and ao dai but with outrageous cutouts, have been publicly shared on social media, causing outrage. Sadly, however, a segment of young people still defend and value this innovation more than traditional values.

Offensive images in the New Tradition fashion show.
Offensive images in the New Tradition fashion show.

Vin embraces innovation.

"What justification is there for calling for a boycott of such innovative fashion creations? Fashion is about self-expression; fashion products reflect the designer's perspective on the world . If the designer viewed the traditional Vietnamese bodice and Buddhist monks in that way, it's merely a new perspective on tradition. And tradition, customs, and morals only serve as a backdrop for the designer's work. On the runway, the ego of the fashion designer is more important than history and deserves more respect than tradition."

Reading these absurd defenses of the New Tradition collection (designed by young designer Tuong Danh) on social media, many people shook their heads in dismay. Even now, there are still many who defend designs based on tradition, using innovation as justification for ridiculously revealing cuts, backless outfits, and blatantly exposed buttocks. Some models wore traditional conical hats and contorted their bodies in an offensive manner. One male model wore a yellow, off-the-shoulder, high-necked dress, holding a golden bell and a golden bowl, reminiscent of Buddhist monks begging for alms.

Mr. Ton That Minh Khoi, founder of Thien Nam Lich Dai Hau Phi (a website specializing in researching the culture, rituals, and costumes of the ancient royal court), and representative of the Viet Phuc Hoa Nien - Beautiful Years project, expressed his indignation: “Since when has the traditional conical hat been associated with such vulgar and obscene bare buttocks? Since when has the image of monks begging for alms, which is a sacred image reminiscent of the original monastic order, been so horribly distorted on the fashion runway? Never use the excuse of “innovation” or “creativity” to forcibly destroy traditional culture.”

Le Ngoc Quyen (29 years old, office worker, residing in Phu Nhuan District, Ho Chi Minh City) exclaimed: "When I first saw the photos, I thought they were from a nightclub, but it turned out to be a fashion show. What kind of creativity is this? In reality, it's exposing skin and provoking insensitive glances at women's bodies."

Don't be reckless.

“It’s not a breakdown, it’s degeneration! Designers have a kind of blindfolded slogan to shout about ‘expressing the self, expressing the ‘voice of the times we live in,’ and promoting ‘creativity’… but they are very thin in terms of aesthetics and culture. The problem is that many people praise them excessively. A wave of calls for innovation and creativity, but it obscures the fundamental values ​​of tradition and history that give rise to this so-called creativity!” lamented artist and ao dai researcher Nguyen Duc Binh.

Before Tường Danh's designs, the issue of young people going overboard in creating traditional costumes had occurred. Especially in recent years, the "National Costume" segment, frequently held in many national beauty pageants, has become fertile ground for young designers to showcase their skills. Many designs claiming to be national costumes are patchwork, overly elaborate. Some bizarre designs include: a traditional Vietnamese blouse (áo bà ba) worn on top but barefoot and without traditional trousers; a bodice (áo yếm) paired with an áo bà ba... There was even a costume inspired by the cải lương play "The Headless Empress," where the designer recreated the gruesome image of a woman wearing an áo dài without a head.

From the story of the innovative designs of the ao dai and ao yem (traditional Vietnamese dresses), which have sparked controversy, young people need to understand that creativity is necessary but must be moderate. Especially now, when traditional Vietnamese clothing is being more widely accepted, innovation should be approached with caution. Creativity is boundless, but it must also be civilized.

* VO THI ANH NGOC (Binh Tan District, Ho Chi Minh City): Freedom is not arbitrariness.

I once saw some young women in bars wearing very strange, modernized outfits inspired by traditional clothing. Traditional ethnic costumes can be modernized to become more unique on beauty pageant stages and fashion runways, but they shouldn't stray too far from core cultural and traditional elements. Creative freedom doesn't mean arbitrarily taking history, tradition, and culture and attaching them to offensive products. Respecting these values ​​is also a way to ensure that creative work doesn't stray too far from traditional customs and values.”



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