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The abode of the virgin goddesses of Nepal

VnExpressVnExpress28/07/2023


The three-storey, red brick Kumari Ghar, which is over 260 years old, is the residence of the virgin goddess in the capital Kathmandu.

Located at the junction of Dubar Square and Basantapur Square in Kathmandu, the capital city, is a three-story red brick building that houses the Kumari (virgin goddess). The house, called Kumari Ghar or Kumari Bahal, was built by King Jaya Prakash Malla in 1757. The building features typical Nepalese architecture with elaborate wooden sculptures of deities and cultural symbols of the country, according to the Nepal Tourism Board.

The abode of the goddesses. Photo: Nepal Tourism Council

The abode of the goddesses. Photo: Nepal Tourism Council

Inside the building is Kumari Chowk, a large, square brick courtyard. The courtyard is surrounded by the three-story house's intricately carved wooden balconies and windows. "This makes it possibly the most beautiful courtyard in Nepal," says Lonely Planet , a US-based travel publisher.

The building was built in the style of a Buddhist monastery. In the middle of the courtyard is a miniature stupa representing Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge, music, art, and nature. In a major earthquake in 2015, the house suffered only minor damage, although surrounding buildings and roads were severely damaged. Many believe that the house survived intact due to the blessings of the holy virgin who lived there.

Visitors can visit the house for free, but are not allowed to enter the house, but to stand in the courtyard in the middle. The Kumari appears in the window from 9am to 11am. Visitors are prohibited from taking pictures of the goddesses, but can take pictures in the courtyard when the Kumari is not in sight.

The building's courtyard area, where visitors are allowed to visit and take photos. Photo: KTM guide

The building's courtyard area, where visitors are allowed to visit and take photos. Photo: KTM guide

There are very few images of the inside of the Kumari's house because it is considered a sacred place and not everyone is allowed to enter. Some recorded images show that the inside of the building is a spacious brick room, simply furnished. The Kumari's reception room has a tiled floor and red carpet, red curtains. In the room, there is only one chair with a backrest for the Kumari. Others will sit on the ground or carpet. Portraits of previous Kumaris are hung on the walls of the living room and other places such as the stairs.

At the large golden gate to the right of the temple is a giant chariot, which is used to carry the living goddess around the city during the annual Indra Jatra festival. The eight-day Indra Jatra is considered the most exciting and revered event by the people of the Kathmandu Valley. People flock to the streets and follow the chariot with the goddess on it to receive blessings.

Kumaris are worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists. People believe that Kumaris are incarnations of the goddess Durga (the Hindu Mother Goddess).

The Kumari is not allowed to speak to strangers except family and close friends. She ceases to be a goddess when she has her first menstrual period.

A virgin goddess in Nepal. Photo: AFP

A virgin goddess in Nepal. Photo: AFP

After a Kumari's term ends, the government organizes a search for a new goddess. To become the chosen one, the girls must pass more than 30 rigorous tests by the elders. One of the criteria for selection is that the girl must have "a neck as slender as a conch shell, the gentle eyes of a cow."

The goddess usually appears in public with a heavily made-up face, an elaborate red costume, and lots of jewelry. Outside of festivals, the goddess must stay in her room in the Kumari Ghar. Her daily routine includes waking up early, bathing and performing rituals, reading newspapers, or watching television.

Her feet are not allowed to touch the ground because people consider the ground to be unclean. Most goddesses move around by being carried or sitting in a palanquin. Their private rooms are the only places they are allowed to walk. During festivals, people kiss the goddess' feet to receive blessings. After their term as goddesses ends, the girls continue to go to school, get married, have children, and live normal lives like everyone else.

Anh Minh (According to Nepal Tourism Council, Lonely Planet )



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