Conquering Khau Coc Cha Pass

Although not one of Vietnam's "Four Great Mountain Passes" (Pha Din, O Quy Ho, Ma Pi Leng, Khau Pha), Khau Coc Cha, with its treacherous 14 sharp bends, makes many hesitant to cross, yet it's a favorite destination for young travelers exploring Cao Bang. The challenging terrain of the pass, combined with the majestic and breathtaking panoramic views from above, is the reason why more and more adventure travelers are discovering it.

The panoramic view of the magnificent and picturesque 15-story building unfolds before the eyes, much to the delight of visitors.

From Cao Bang city, we traveled nearly 90 km to Xuan Truong commune, traversing a series of extremely steep mountain passes. The winding road, like a soft silk ribbon shrouded in mist, was breathtakingly beautiful, fueled by our determination to conquer this pass that "backpackers" are talking about as a must-see at least once in a lifetime. We were told that Khau Coc Cha Pass, located on National Highway 4A, clinging to the steep slopes of Coc Cha mountain, connecting Xuan Truong commune with Bao Lac town, is only about 2.5 km long but boasts 14 hairpin bends, creating 15 incredibly treacherous layers of steep inclines. This piqued our interest and curiosity. According to locals, the pass dates back to the French colonial era, but at that time it was just a narrow trail about 40 cm wide. Due to the rugged terrain, people usually traveled on foot or horseback, and it took a considerable amount of time to cross. From 2009 to 2011, the province invested in expanding the mountain pass road, widening the road to 5 meters and paving it with asphalt. The hairpin bends were carved deeper into the cliff face to create more road space, ensuring safety and making travel between Bao Lac district and surrounding areas easier and more convenient, while also shortening travel time. Despite this, it remains one of the most treacherous mountain passes in the Northeast region.

Following in the footsteps of many tourists exploring Khau Coc Cha Pass, we chose the summit – where Mr. and Mrs. Nong Van Ngoan run their only general store and beverage shop in the area – as our resting place to admire the view. The general store was quite busy, and the couple warmly welcomed visitors. Initially, this was where Mrs. Le Thi Thuy, Mr. Ngoan's wife, would rest after her goat herding trips up the mountain. In 2007, she opened the general store, selling refreshments to tourists. Since then, they have become tourism ambassadors, actively contributing to making Khau Coc Cha Pass an increasingly well-known tourist destination.

Upon arriving, we were introduced to two options for exploring Khau Coc Cha Pass: driving directly over the pass or trekking through the forest to admire the view from above. We decided to conquer it by both methods. Conquering Khau Coc Cha Pass by motorbike, due to its steep slopes and numerous dangerous turns, took over an hour. The higher we climbed, the more evident the majestic beauty of nature became, with dangerous curves, winding sections, and towering mountains all around, flanked by lush green forests and deep ravines, creating a magnificent and awe-inspiring landscape. Because of the inherent dangers, anyone traveling on this pass needs a steady hand on the handlebars, safe driving, and strict adherence to traffic laws.

After driving directly over the pass, we wanted to take on the challenge of hiking through the forest, following the mountain slopes of the pass to admire the scenery and capture the majestic panoramic views. To find the way up the mountain, we returned to Mrs. Thuy's general store. Mrs. Thuy enthusiastically shared: "Having herded goats on the mountains in this area for many years, I know the roads and paths by heart and know the best and clearest viewpoints for the Khau Coc Cha pass. Whenever tourists want, I take them to the 'peak' of Pac Thoc to get a full view of all 15 levels of the pass. The 1 km stretch takes more than 30 minutes to get there. Initially, the road was difficult due to many sections with steep cliffs, dense trees, and slippery conditions on rainy days... so I spent money hiring people to clear the trees, improve the road, draw signs, and create a check-in point so tourists can climb up on their own. I've never considered charging a fee or demanding payment for guiding tourists to the check-in point I created."

The higher we climbed, the more breathtaking the majestic natural scenery unfolded before our eyes, each tier of slopes gradually revealing itself beneath the canopy of trees. Although the vegetation had been cleared and the path improved, the mountain road remained treacherous. In some sections, we had to support each other, clinging to rocky outcrops to climb, everyone exclaiming in amazement despite the sweat pouring down. Upon arrival, the entire 15-tiered mountain pass was within sight, stunningly beautiful, the whole mountain pass resembling a giant snake slithering up the mountain. Amidst the swirling white clouds, the pass appeared winding and curving, its layers like steps leading to the "summit of heaven."

The trek through the forest may leave you feeling tired, but the panoramic view of the 15-tiered pass that unfolds before your eyes is both majestic and poetic, leaving visitors overwhelmed. Perhaps that's why recently, many trekkers have been telling each other that they must conquer Khau Coc Cha at least once in their lifetime. And certainly, conquering Khau Coc Cha will be an incredibly exciting and unforgettable experience.

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