The flavor of snails

If you were born and raised in the central coastal region of Vietnam, you surely can't forget the rich flavor of "ốc lể" (also known as "ốc ruốc" or "ốc gạo"). This rustic dish has been associated with generations, becoming a part of the childhood memories of boys and girls in the 70s, 80s, and 90s, and still retains its appeal today.

Central Vietnamese snail dish. Photo: TK

Along the beaches of Tam Thanh (Tam Ky), the sight of locals diligently gathering snails has become familiar. These snails are most abundant from January to April of the lunar calendar. Although small, only about half the size of a chopstick tip, when prepared correctly, these snails become an irresistible dish, especially for women.

At dawn, the fishermen were already at the beach with their simple tools: a long pole, more than two meters long, with a rectangular iron frame covered with netting at one end to trap the shells, while the sand was washed away by the seawater.

This job may seem simple, but it requires great physical stamina. Those who collect snails must immerse themselves for hours in cold water, endure sudden large waves, and the scorching midday sun.

After being harvested, the snails are sorted by size and then soaked in water to remove the sand. From the beach, the snails are quickly transported to markets, street stalls, or to itinerant vendors. On familiar streets like Tran Cao Van, Phan Chau Trinh, and Phan Dinh Phung, it's not uncommon to see pushcarts piled high with snails or motorbikes weaving through the streets with the familiar cry: "Snails for sale! Anyone want some?"

Ms. Nguyen Thi Trinh, a long-time snail vendor in Tam Ky, shared: “Every day, I sell 5-7 buckets of early-season snails, each bucket containing about 60 cans. To make delicious snails, you must first choose live snails, clean them thoroughly, and then cook them. Seasoning is also very important: MSG, salt, and dried chili peppers must be kept separate, and I only add them to each customer's taste.”

Snail feasting is not simply a dish, but also an excuse for gathering and reminiscing. Especially for those who have lived far from home, the taste of snail feasting evokes sweet memories, recalling childhood days spent with friends, meticulously examining each tiny snail.

Snails can be prepared in many ways: stir-fried with chili, boiled with lemongrass, roasted with salt, or steamed with lime leaves. Stir-fried snails with chili is a favorite dish for many, because the spicy kick of chili and the fragrant aroma of lemongrass blend perfectly with each small snail, making it a delightful treat to savor. When eating, a pomelo or lime thorn stick is essential to extract each snail from its shell, gathering them together on a skewer to enjoy, savoring the sweet and savory flavor.

Despite being a simple, rustic dish, snails possess a uniquely unforgettable flavor. From the fishermen who brave the open sea to gather snails, to the street vendors who weave through every corner of the city, all of this has contributed to the distinctive culinary culture of Central Vietnam.

This simple dish holds so many memories. Once you sit down and savor each tiny snail, your childhood will come flooding back, through stories and the joyful laughter shared among loved ones...

Source: https://baoquangnam.vn/huong-vi-oc-le-3155014.html