Cloud hunting on the northern mountain roads.

Heritage•02/03/2024

It is often said, "Wind has no form, clouds are impermanent," meaning that wind is inherently shapeless and clouds are constantly drifting, never staying in one place. In the vast expanse of the highlands, the story of "wind and clouds" further enhances the admiration for the exquisite beauty of nature in Northern Vietnam.

Located just over 100km from Hanoi , Long Coc tea hills in Tan Son district, Phu Tho province, are the first testament to the "Ha Long Bay of the midland region" oases. Every winter, when the weather turns cold, the mist and clouds blanketing over 600 hectares of Long Coc tea plantations create a magical scene, especially at dawn. This idyllic paradise boasts the refreshing green of the tea leaves and the peaceful, romantic charm of clouds drifting over the smooth, rounded, bowl-shaped hills stretching endlessly.

While the midland region, shrouded in clouds and wind, offers a serene and romantic beauty like Long Coc, the mountainous areas possess a distinctly majestic and imposing charm. First and foremost is Lao Cai province. From around November of the previous year to March of the following year, wherever you stop in Lao Cai, whether it's Sa Pa town, Bat Xat district, or Fansipan peak, you'll find an ideal spot to admire the beautiful clouds.

The clouds in Sa Pa are not languid; they are dense and pure white, so that when the sun rises, they sweep down this enormous sea of clouds onto the town like cascading waterfalls. This breathtaking moment of clouds flowing through must have inspired writer Nguyen Thanh Long to capture the poetic beauty of nature in *Silent Sa Pa*: “The sun is now beginning to penetrate, scorching the forest.”

The pine trees, barely taller than head height, shimmered in the sunlight, their silver fingers swaying beneath the protective gaze of the lilac trees, which occasionally poked their purple heads above the green of the forest. Clouds, chased away by the sun, curled into clumps, rolling over dew-covered leaves, falling onto the road, and even creeping under cars.

Even more unique, and reserved only for those patient enough to experience Sa Pa, is the late afternoon sunset, when the town lights up, yet the clouds still linger to join in the magical, warm, and unparalleled spectacle of light.

The charm of Northwest Vietnam still holds many delightful surprises, especially in the "land of a thousand clouds," Y Tý, in Bát Xát district. Situated at an altitude of nearly 2,000m, nestled against the Nhìu Cồ Sàn mountain range, Y Tý possesses a beauty that harmoniously blends nature and humanity. The winding, steep roads, the terraced rice fields curving through the clouds, and the traditional houses of the Hà Nhì people add touches of fairytale beauty to the landscape. Even the sight of someone walking by or a herd of buffaloes grazing peacefully is enough to stir emotions, evoking the gentle, poetic beauty of this mountainous region. It seems almost within reach, yet also drifts away illusoryly in the vast expanse of the sky and earth.

And a rendezvous with the clouds of the borderlands would be incomplete without mentioning the roof of Indochina - Fansipan Peak - the highest peak in Vietnam. From an altitude of 3,143m above sea level, one can only marvel at the majestic landscape when standing amidst the ethereal scenery of clouds. From this towering peak, gazing in all directions, amidst the pristine white sea of clouds, one will find areas changing color to vibrant orange-yellow or eye-catching patches of pink and purple.

Due to the "impermanence" of clouds, every moment on the summit of Fansipan is different; every photograph taken is unique, and everyone "captures" the clouds in their own special way. The rolling hills reach the horizon, the temple roofs and pagoda peaks seem to drift lazily, and in the distance, the majestic and noble statue of Amitabha Buddha is shrouded in clouds. One feels a sense of calm, allowing them to quietly enjoy the peaceful moment high above.

While Northwest Vietnam is enchanting, Northeast Vietnam is equally stunning! Not only famous for its rocky plateaus, yin-yang roofs, and buckwheat flowers, Ha Giang also captivates visitors with the romantic charm of its "misty villages" and "cloud-covered passes." Anyone who loves the border regions has surely driven to this frontier, and if fortunate, may have experienced "clouds overhead and sunshine on their shoulders." The treacherous hairpin bends, the moments of stopping to admire the mountains and rivers—everywhere you look, the wind and clouds descend, enveloping your clothes in the crisp, cool air of the plateau, reminding you that the clouds and sky of Ha Giang are always there to accompany travelers.

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