Living in a region of crisscrossing rivers and canals, community activities as well as entertainment and sports of the residents of the Southwest region from the past to the present have shown the customs and folk beliefs associated with the river and the means of transport on the river and canals, which are boats. In this article, I would like to tell you a few old and new stories about the river racing of the residents of the Mekong Delta, especially in the An Giang upstream area and the beauty of Ngo boat racing of the Khmer people.
Living in the upper reaches of the region, the area is crisscrossed with large rivers and small canals, "so out of ten people, nine know how to swim and row a boat" (book "Gia Dinh Thanh Thong Chi"). In addition, because of their attachment to the river and their ability to swim, the previous generations of residents in An Giang loved to race. They practiced every day when living on the river. It was called "racing" but it was not a race for speed, nor for early or late finish line, but for distance, the farther they swam, the more they proved their courage and skill. Until now, they still often organize race swimming during local festivals, especially on the occasion of worshiping at the communal house, to promote and remember the battles and victories over the enemy on the river of their ancestors. In that spirit, people often practice to respond when encountering big waves and strong winds or to rescue people.
Ngo boat racing. Photo: DUY KHOI
Regarding boat racing, the book “Dai Nam Nhat Thong Chi” in the part about An Giang customs recorded: “In August, the whole boat goes to welcome Ho monk, quickly swims to Tam Ky river, beats the earthen drum, plays the zither, then puts down the oars, communicates with each other for a while then disperses, called the water procession ceremony), the same in October, called “giving water” (like our people say flood comes, flood goes). The book also mentioned the customs of the Khmer people: “Usually in March, they fix tents, prepare fruits, incense, and lamps, and go to worship at Ho pagoda. After that, they have fun for three days, gather to eat and drink, play badminton, called celebrating the new year, just like our people celebrate the Lunar New Year.”
For the Khmer people, racing boats are specialized boats, called Ngo boats, made from a large Sao tree, usually 80 to 100 years old, 20-30m long or more. Originally, Ngo boats were not closed with many planks, but only had the insides removed, and were heated to expand the boat's belly, reaching a diameter of 1.2m-1.5m. The bow and rudder of the boat were beautifully carved and decorated, often with snakes, dragons... or animals associated with many legends in ancient religions.
Depending on the capacity of the boat, each racing team has from 20 to 60 racers (according to the rules of the game, there are 56 “swimmers”), they sit in tight double rows, with one person steering, one person standing at the bow holding a beam and shouting out loud commands. Large boats have an additional person standing in the middle, beating the gong loudly to the rhythm and movements of the commander at the bow, or blowing the trumpet (or whistle) in double or triple beats, urging each time continuously.
To win the race, athletes must practice swimming with the right technique for months, first by “wind swimming” to the music, by placing a board across a small canal, then sitting together holding a beam and swimming in the air, following the commander's command to be in rhythm and also to get used to their muscles and bones. Only when they are fluent and meet all strict technical requirements can they get into the boat to practice so as not to capsize.
The Khmer people in the South have used Ngo boats for a long time. Although they are no longer suitable for travel and transportation, Ngo boats are still preserved by the people, considered as "ancestral boats", and are only used for racing during traditional festivals. After the race, the boats are brought ashore and "restored" in the "boat house, next to the pagoda".
Close-up of the bow of a Ngo boat before the race. Photo: DUY KHOI
Ngo boat racing is also one of the ritual and symbolic activities in the beliefs of the Khmer people in the South. As we know, the majority of the Khmer people in the South in general live on agriculture , their lives are always attached to the fields, so water is very sacred to them. The people believe that at midnight on the full moon night of October, the shadow of the upright pillar in front of the yard does not move to one side, that is the end of the moon's cycle around the earth, an "old agricultural year" has passed and this is an opportunity for the people to thank the Moon God, the god who regulates the weather to help people grow crops. Therefore, in the main festival of the people, the Ok-om-bok Festival, also known as "Moon worshiping ceremony" or "Flattened green rice feeding ceremony", an activity associated with the river, Ngo boat racing, is also held. To this day, Ngo boat racing is still held everywhere in the Mekong Delta on the occasion of Ok-om-bok and other important festivals.
Today's canoe and boat are variations of the Ngo boat, and are still used in fishing for catfish and giant barbs in the Tien and Vam Nao rivers.
Over time, besides the river races that have become a part of cultural and entertainment activities, the residents of the Southwest region still deeply remember the river scene with the "shrimp skimming boat moored close to the riverbank", the smoke from burning the fields in March to prepare for planting the new rice crop, the large wooden boats going up and down the Tien and Hau rivers, the two-row sampans diligently taking passengers across the river day and night, the leisurely boats and dugout boats on the river... All of these create the image and typical lifestyle of the land of nine dragons.
Source: https://baocantho.com.vn/chuyen-ve-dua-ghe-thuyen-vung-tay-nam-bo-a188182.html
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