New heritage cuisine of Hanoi

Thanh Tri rice rolls are originally a simple, unfilled dish.

Thanh Tri rice rolls are originally a simple, unfilled dish.

Thanh Tri village, now in Vinh Hung ward (Hanoi) is the birthplace of the simple but sophisticated rice rolls, imbued with the culinary style of Hanoi. Rice rolls are available in many places, but Thanh Tri rice rolls still retain their own unique qualities.

The process of making the cake starts with choosing rice, the type of rice that is just sticky, not too soft so that the cake does not break when spread. Currently, Thanh Tri people prefer Khang Dan rice. The rice is washed thoroughly, soaked in water for a period of time depending on the weather, about three hours in the summer, four hours in the winter, but not soaked for too long because it will turn sour. After soaking, the rice is ground into a smooth, thick paste to spread the cake.

Most families in Thanh Tri make rice cakes by hand, and serve customers as they come. The maker quickly scoops each ladle of dough, spreads it evenly on the mold, and covers it for about 15-20 seconds. When the cake is done, it will be clear and slightly chewy. Using a bamboo stick about 30 cm long, the maker gently removes the cake and places it on a tray. The skilled artisans only need to look at the color of the dough, the clarity, and the doneness to know if the cake is ready or not. All thanks to the experience passed down through generations.

The original Thanh Tri rice rolls are made from rice flour, after being spread, they are coated with a thin layer of fat, sprinkled with fried onions and then layered. It is this simplicity that makes the dish unique.

To make the cake delicious, the baker must be highly skilled, especially in mixing the right dipping sauce: light, refreshing, full of flavor, not too strong, not too salty or too sweet. The dipping sauce bowl is like a delicate highlight, shimmering amber, highlighted by a few slices of red chili and ivory-white garlic. In the past, the dipping sauce had water bugs added; nowadays, this type is rare, only available when customers order in advance.

According to researchers, banh cuon with minced meat, wood ear or shiitake mushroom filling is a later variation. Nowadays, if eating banh cuon without filling, people often eat it with cinnamon sausage.

In the past, Thanh Tri people would make rice paper rolls, put them in baskets, and carry them into the city to sell. Nowadays, although Hanoi has many rice paper rolls shops, many families in Thanh Tri still follow the old tradition: Making rice paper rolls and selling them on the sidewalk early in the morning, and returning home mid-afternoon.

Some households have opened shops and become brands sought after by many diners, such as: Banh cuon Co Lan, Ba My, Ba Nghia, Ba Hoanh..., serving both on-site and delivered to customers.

Thanh Tri rice rolls have been introduced to many international visitors. Being recognized as a heritage creates more opportunities for promotion, contributing to raising the level of Hanoi cuisine.

Source: https://nhandan.vn/mon-am-thuc-di-san-moi-cua-ha-noi-post894447.html