The grand ceremony featured many unique performances such as the procession of the Nine Immortal Maidens' flower floats, incense dragon dance, dance of the four mythical creatures (dragon, unicorn, turtle, phoenix), and displays of fruit offerings… As a native of Tay Ninh , I had never seen an incense dragon dance before. I'd wanted to see it several times, but I always ended up just watching the people and not getting to see the dragon. This time, I was determined to see it. I heard that this year marked the "centenary of Cao Dai," so there were two incense dragon dances, something unprecedented.
So I planned ahead a whole week. On the afternoon of the 14th of the lunar month, I took a stroll around the Holy See. Outside the main area, there were "zero-cost stalls" selling vegetarian food including rice, noodle soup, and various drinks... There was a constant stream of people. Yet, it wasn't as crowded as inside the Holy See itself. In the refectory area, volunteers cooked and served vegetarian dishes to visitors. The cooking utensils were very special. Every pan was huge. To stir-fry green beans, they had to fill several baskets to get even half a pan. To match the size of the pan, they used spatulas to stir, flip, turn, and scoop the food. Just watching the cooking was full of surprises. One interesting aspect of this festival is that visitors to the Cao Dai Holy See in Tay Ninh, whether they visit the "zero-cost" stalls outside or inside the main area, can eat and drink completely free of charge.
Although it wasn't the official day of the grand ceremony, a large crowd had already gathered to admire the offerings, including regional specialties brought to the festival by Cao Dai followers. It's impossible to say exactly how many provinces and cities participated. But glancing at the stalls, one could tell which province they belonged to without even looking at the names. For example, the Lam Dong congregation displayed dried persimmons. The Dak Lak congregation offered a tray of coffee arranged alongside their characteristic baskets. The Ninh Thuan congregation had grapes. The Ly Son congregation had garlic…
On the night of the full moon in August, a grand ceremony takes place, featuring incense dragon dances. I went with a few young friends in a group. After parking our cars, we walked from the outskirts of the Holy See inwards, weaving through the dense crowds. We were also sweating profusely by the time we reached Bao An Tu - the place where offerings are made to the Goddess Yao Chi Kim Mau and the Nine Immortal Maidens.
People crowded in and out, eagerly watching the elaborately prepared offerings. Mobile phones were snapping pictures non-stop. The atmosphere was thick with sweat. At times, it felt impossible to move.
Far away in the temple courtyard, the rhythmic drumming of the lion dance drew closer. Everyone excitedly turned their eyes towards the sound, eagerly awaiting. I also had my phone ready to record video. The float carrying the Goddess of Mercy and the other celestial maidens slowly appeared. Following it was the dance of the four mythical creatures. More special than in previous years, there were two dragons instead of one. Someone said the dragons' heads were very heavy, their bodies dozens of meters long, requiring hundreds of people to control them and backups. The dragons were decorated in vibrant, eye-catching colors. The words "Grand Feast of the Jade Pool Palace" were inscribed on their bodies. Flashing lights bordered their bodies. The dragons moved and writhed, rising and falling to the rhythmic drumming of the lion dance, amidst the vast crowd that resembled a cloud in the sky, allowing them to soar freely. Every few seconds, the dragons would breathe fire, much to the delight of the spectators. At that moment, almost everyone simultaneously gasped, creating a truly impressive festive atmosphere. Turtles and phoenixes playfully frolicked along the parade route. The children carried lanterns, followed by adults in white traditional Vietnamese dresses.
We were afraid of getting separated while watching the festival, so we wore matching uniforms for easy identification. But we were so engrossed in watching that we all went in different directions without realizing it. Only after the dragon dance had disappeared did I suddenly realize I needed to "find my teammates." Alas, my phone had run out of battery since I recorded the impressive dragon dance to show off to family, friends, and on Facebook, to promote the unique beauty of my hometown, which is a Cao Dai religious community. Luckily, before we got separated, a young person in the group gave me a fan. Many experienced festival-goers bring fans to use during the crowded, hot, and sweaty conditions. This fan was quite special compared to others, so I easily found my "companions" by raising it high and waving it in the air. Actually, we weren't the only ones who got lost; I saw people here and there raising their sandals as a "signal." Someone's pet dog was also being carried and held up in the air. I don't know if they held it up to help it feel less overwhelmed in the vast crowd of people, or if they held it up to help find a loved one.
Finally, we managed to get out of the gradually thinning crowd. After walking a short distance, we came across a free water dispenser. My throat was parched, and a glass of cool water was incredibly refreshing. There's truly no place like Tay Ninh. My phone battery was dead, so I decided to try borrowing a power bank from the vendors. Unexpectedly, one of them enthusiastically lent me one, which I plugged in and used to charge my phone and call home. I can't help but feel a bit embarrassed praising my own people so much.
The following evening, I returned to the Holy See once more to satisfy my curiosity before, during, and after the festival. In just one night, so much trash had been cleaned up, restoring the Holy See grounds to their usual spotless state.
It was a truly unique and spectacular festival. Yet, only now have I fully experienced it for the first time.
Tran Nha My
Source: https://baotayninh.vn/lan-dau-xem-mua-rong-nhang-a179076.html
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