Chol Ch'nam Th'may Tet

Late afternoon. Fluffy white clouds drifted across the sky, gradually turning a silvery gray and descending lower. Then it rained. A torrential downpour. The workers at the vehicle and machinery repair shop managed by The had to abandon their work and run inside to take shelter from the rain.

Illustration: HIEN TRI

Dương busied himself rinsing the teapot to make tea. Then he asked Nuôn Chia, "When is Chôl ch'năm th'mây?" Nuôn Chia replied, "Chôl ch'năm th'mây lasts for three days, from the 13th to the 15th of April. In many places, it extends to the 17th of April." Điếu asked blankly, "What day is it today?" Seng Tuk said, "This weekend is Chôl ch'năm th'mây. We'll have the day off and celebrate with the Khmer people in Snoul." Kim Xaruơn added, "Remember, when you go to celebrate Chôl ch'năm th'mây with the Khmer, wrap your money and documents in plastic bags to avoid getting them wet. During the celebration, the Khmer people bless each other by splashing water on relatives, friends, and honored guests from near and far... The Khmer believe that whoever gets drenched like a drowned rat will have good luck in the new year."

It was still raining, though not heavily. Nuôn Chia explained that Chôl ch'năm th'mây is the most important festival of the year, so before the festival, the Khmer people go to the temples in their villages to help the monks bathe the Buddha statues, clean the altars, and sweep the temple grounds. "Most Khmer people follow Buddhism; they live virtuously and consider this life to be only temporary," added Kim Xaruơn.

The Vietnamese workers wanted to learn more about the Chôl Ch'năm Th'mây New Year festival, so they asked the Cambodian workers to explain it in more detail. They enthusiastically explained. The Chôl Ch'năm Th'mây festival takes place over three days. The first day is called maha songkran, the beginning of a new year. The second day is called uanabot, a day to show filial piety to ancestors, grandparents, and parents. The third day is called th'ngây leng saka, a day to welcome good fortune and blessings in the new year.

Like the Vietnamese, the Khmer people also prepare many traditional dishes during the Chôl ch'năm th'mây New Year to entertain relatives, neighbors, and friends who come to visit. Bai xach ch'rut is grilled pork ribs with rice. Amok is steamed fish in coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves. Num ansom is sticky rice cake with banana or mung bean filling. The three days of the New Year are filled with folk games such as boat racing on the river, building sand mountains, constructing sand temples and towers, and performing Apsara and Romvong dances.

"It's impossible to tell you everything about the Chôl ch'năm th'mây festival!" said Seng Tuk.

"This weekend, if you go to Snoul town, you'll get a feel for what the Khmer New Year is like!" Soul Bay said.

On the day of maha songkran, around nine o'clock in the morning, The, Mac, Dao, Dieu, Duong and the "quartet" including Ho Tien Loi, Mai Hoang Luong, Nguyen Dai Tu and Tran Boi Tin went out to play in Snoul town. At the intersection ahead, there was a large moving pile of people, surrounded by a frenzied crowd laughing and shouting. Curious, the Vietnamese workers strode forward. And they were splashed with water until they were soaking wet. Five rotekô (1) carrying large plastic containers full of water with Khmer boys and girls standing scooping water and splashing it on the crowd on both sides of the road and shouting: "Ch'nam th'may samakhi!" (2).

Many in the crowd also used coconut shells and plastic cups to scoop water from buckets and jars that people on both sides of the road had placed, splashing it onto those standing on the carts and shouting loudly: "Ch'nam th'may samakhi!". The, Mac, Dao, Dieu, Duong, and the "quartet" joined the enthusiastic crowd moving along the road. Seeing the Vietnamese workers looking calm, the Khmer men brought alcohol and offered them a drink. They said: "Chol Ch'nam th'may is only fun with a little alcohol." At first, the Vietnamese workers were hesitant and reserved, but with a little alcohol in their system, they quickly joined in the crowd. They also joined in the "Ch'nam th'may samakhi" chant and eagerly scooped water from the buckets and jars placed on both sides of the road, splashing it onto the carts and into the crowd amidst the cheers and applause of everyone.

Wherever the water tank passed, Thế didn't know who was pumping water into it, but the young men and women standing on the tank kept scooping and splashing water around, yet it never seemed to empty. Those water tanks were like Thạch Sanh's magic rice pot in the Vietnamese fairy tale, constantly emptying and then refilling.

The Vietnamese workers felt hungry and tired, so they left the crowd and stepped onto the sidewalk as the sun cast round shadows at their feet. Chey Moan led his friends to meet the Vietnamese workers and invited them to his home in Kh'riêl Kô village to celebrate Chôl ch'năm th'mây New Year.

An ancient mango tree cast a cool, shady canopy over the spacious courtyard. A large, long plank rested on six wooden stakes firmly planted in the ground. Two chairs on either side of the table were also supported. Fen Maly, Chey Moan's wife, scooped the freshly cooked food onto plates. Chey Moan and his friends pitched in to help carry the dishes. In no time, everything was neatly arranged on the table along with three amber-colored jugs of wine.

Chey Moan invited everyone to be seated. He rubbed his hands together and said, “On the occasion of the Chôl ch'năm th'mây New Year, my family has invited our esteemed Vietnamese and Khmer friends to celebrate with us. It is especially an honor for my family that Pu Hên, a respected elder in the Kh'riêl Kô village, is also present. Please raise your glasses to ‘Vietnam - Cambodia samakhi’.”

Everyone shouted "Vietnam - Cambodia samakhi" and drank their glasses dry. There were about twenty people in total, eating, drinking, and chatting. Chey Moan was punished with a drink for not giving prior notice, which caught the Vietnamese workers off guard. Chey Moan laughed and accepted. After finishing his penalty drink, Chey Moan said he didn't give notice to create a surprise, which made it more fun.

Khmer cuisine shares similarities with Vietnamese cuisine , making it delicious for everyone. According to Pu Hen, only the fish sauce is different! The Vietnamese fish sauce is unsuitable for the Khmer because it's too salty! Conversely, the Khmer pròhók fish sauce is not to the Vietnamese taste because it's bland and has a strong smell.

The festivities lasted well past noon. When the party ended, the Vietnamese workers lay sprawled out asleep on the stilt house in Chey Moan.

As evening falls, Phum Kh'riêl Kô resounds with laughter and conversation.

Then he woke up first. He shook Mac, Dao, Dieu, Duong, Ho Tien Loi, Mai Hoan Luong, Nguyen Dai Tu, and Tran Boi Tin. Fen Maly laughed and asked, "You're all awake already? You drank too much, aren't you tired?" Mac reproached Chey Moan, "Why didn't you wake us up earlier so we could go home? Now we've missed the chance to go to Snoul town to see the Romvong dance..." Chey Moan waved his hand, "Don't worry! Tonight, the Kromia village by the big stream will be performing the Romvong dance until morning. After dinner, if you like, I'll take you..."

Darkness fell. The sounds of the toro and siko drums echoed from the village of Kromia. Chey Moan led the Vietnamese brothers to watch the romvong dance. The Kromia temple courtyard was large, with four bright electric lights at each corner.

The Vietnamese brothers and Chey Moan mingled with the surrounding crowd, watching the Khmer boys and girls dance in pairs, forming a circle that rotated counterclockwise. The and Mac silently observed. One hand was raised, spreading out like a lotus petal, the other lowered, fingers folded and bent. One foot stepped forward, using the other to step forward, turning sideways and swaying the hips. The movements of their hands and feet were rhythmic and graceful, following the sound of the siko drums, the roto, and the melodious tune of the song. The girls' faces, in particular, were radiant, their eyes sparkling, and their smiles bright and cheerful.

Chey Moan stood next to The and Mac, saying, "The Romvong dance is quite simple; you can learn it after watching for a while." The asked, "What songs do they sing that have such smooth and profound melodies?" Chey Moan replied, "When dancing the Romvong, people usually sing Khmer folk songs like 'The Pink Scarf,' 'The Papaya Flower,' 'The Song of the Nightingale,' 'The Song of the Muom Tree,' etc."

While engrossed in admiring the nighttime festivities, The, Mac, Dieu, and Duong were suddenly approached by two Khmer girls who curtsied and extended their hands: "We invite you Vietnamese friends to join us in dancing the Romvong to celebrate the Chol Ch'nam Th'may New Year." Dieu and Duong were startled and recoiled, blending into the crowd. The and Mac stood frozen, bewildered. Someone nearby handed Chey Moan a bottle of wine and gave each of the two girls a porcelain cup. Chey Moan filled the cups with wine, and the two girls offered it to The and Mac. Chey Moan said, "Drink up, then you two can dance the Romvong to really get into the spirit."

One dose, three sevens, it's all a dose. As Thế and Mạc drained their cups of wine, the sounds of singing, music, and drums rose. Along with everyone else, Thế, Mạc, and the two girls joined the romvông dance. When the song ended, Thế and Mạc bowed to the two girls and returned to their places. Seeing that Thế and Mạc's movements weren't too bad, Đạo, Điếu, Dương, Hồ Tiến Lợi, Mai Hoàn Lương, Nguyễn Đại Tự, and Trần Bội Tín also drank wine and boldly joined the romvông dance.

The crowd surrounding them applauded in encouragement. Mac said to The, "When participating in this group dance, the boys and girls easily get to know each other. Perhaps that's why back then, quite a few Vietnamese volunteer soldiers fell in love with each other in the villages." The nodded in agreement.

The atmosphere of the Romvong festival, celebrating the Chol Ch'nam Th'may New Year in Kromia village, grew more vibrant as the night progressed. The singing, the music, and the drumming drew people into circles of dancing counterclockwise. Several Vietnamese men enthusiastically joined in. The spirit of spring seemed to be blossoming in the hearts of the young men and women…

(1) The Khmer word means ox cart, a common means of transport in rural areas of Cambodia.

(2) The Khmer word means New Year of Unity.

Source: https://baoquangnam.vn/tet-chol-ch-nam-th-may-3152650.html