48 hours in Shangri La

When I arrived in Shangri-La, I still couldn't believe I had reached the gateway to Tibet. I dedicated my precious 48 hours to exploring the unique architectural wonders of the area.

Shangri-La, often called the land of immortality and seemingly isolated from the outside world , is home to a Lamaist monastery at the edge of the Kunlun Mountains, as depicted in the novel *Lost Horizon*. Based on these nearly identical descriptions, Zhongdian County, located on the border between Yunnan and Sichuan provinces (China), was named Shangri-La. Situated at an altitude of approximately 3,300 meters above sea level, it is considered the "gateway to Tibet" and a popular stop for those wishing to explore the Tibetan plateau.

For many people, traveling far means going to expensive places like Europe or America. But for me, faraway places mean overcoming long journeys, challenging altitudes, difficult terrain, and completely different cultures. It was beyond my imagination, as I had no problems with altitude sickness or oxygen deprivation. Shangri La welcomed me with incredibly fresh and clear air.

To fully experience the unique culture of the Tibetan people, I chose a homestay with a distinctive architecture: earthen walls surrounding a U-shaped house with a spacious courtyard in front. The rooms are built on two floors, with all walls made entirely of wood. My room was on the second floor, accessed via a slightly creaky wooden staircase in the corner of the courtyard. The interior was simple but exquisitely detailed, from the mirrors and basins to the faux-bronze water heater, the carpets, the bedspreads, and the wall decorations featuring traditional Tibetan patterns. In the morning, sitting by the window with a cup of tea, I could see the Big Buddha Temple and hear the echoing sound of its bells.

My homestay is located right in the 1,300-year-old Dukezong Old Town, just a few steps from the central square. One corner of the square houses the Chinese People's Liberation Army Museum, recreating the image of soldiers living in harmony with the local people, carrying water, washing clothes, and more. Another corner features a variety of shops, from traditional restaurants and tea houses where visitors can enjoy typical Tibetan cuisine and drinks, to shops selling handicrafts, plaster, ceramics, embroidery, and jewelry. Because all the buildings are made of wood, a major fire broke out here in 2014, after which many buildings were rebuilt. The name Dukezong, translated from Tibetan, has a very romantic meaning: "ancient city under the moonlight."

Compared to the early-rising habits of Vietnamese people, the old town here usually doesn't start bustling with shops opening until around 9 or 10 a.m., and the streets are sparse and quiet. It seems that most tourists visit other attractions during the day, and only gather in the square in the evening to become crowded and lively. But thanks to this, Vietnamese tourists like myself don't need to wake up early to easily find plenty of photo opportunities without having to jostle with crowds.

Standing prominently in the center of the square is the Great Buddha Temple, perched on a high hill, even more beautiful and enchanting when visited in the late afternoon or evening. At this time, the entire temple is illuminated by hundreds of brightly colored lights. The main attraction here is the Tibetan Buddhist architecture and layout, so the most striking feature is probably the Great Prayer Wheel, an indispensable sacred object in the spiritual life of Tantric Buddhism. Interestingly, it requires a minimum of 6-8 people to turn it clockwise simultaneously, but whether morning or evening, it's never empty of people, gently walking around and whispering prayers for good fortune and peace. It's said that the Great Prayer Wheel contains countless secret mantras and mysterious texts. Below the Great Buddha Temple are rows of cherry blossom trees; if you visit during spring when the flowers are in bloom, it's absolutely stunning.

However, the Great Buddha Temple is just a tiny corner compared to Songzanlin, also known as Songzanlin Temple. It's arguably a must-see attraction in Shangri-La and the place I was most excited to explore before arriving. Interestingly, Dukezong Ancient Town doesn't have any house numbers, not even for homestays or large hotels. Therefore, to get a taxi to Songzanlin, you have to walk a short distance to the main road to hail one, costing 20 yuan for the journey from the ancient town. The taxi drops you off at a station, similar to a bus stop in Vietnam. From there, you buy a bus ticket and travel for about 10 minutes along winding roads to reach Songzanlin village. Those with more time can walk instead of taking the bus, but I found the walk quite long, taking around 40 minutes depending on your fitness level.

Continuing from the bus station, you'll have to climb a small hill opposite to get the "classic" panoramic view of Songzanlin Monastery, with its three striking colors—white, red, and yellow—shining brightly in the sunlight. If you visit during the rainy season, you can go a little further back to get a shot from the lake, where the monastery's majestic reflection on the hilltop, combined with the lake and vast expanse of grass, makes it even more magnificent. Songzanlin Monastery was built in 1679 as a miniature replica of the Potala Palace in Tibet and is one of the largest and most important Tibetan monasteries in China.

Songzanlin Monastery comprises numerous chambers and halls, and visitors are free to enter and explore, although most places have signs prohibiting photography inside. Upon entering Songzanlin Monastery, one can feel the sacred atmosphere due to the high, spacious ceilings adorned with many Buddha statues and religious artifacts, along with a touch of solitude caused by the slight lack of natural light.

However, I liked Tibetan Buddhism because it was so close and authentic, so down-to-earth. Almost only in Tibetan villages could you see young monks running around, laughing and joking happily in the sun. I noticed that most tourists only visited the ground floor, so when we climbed to the upper floors of the monastery, only a foreign couple was left with us. We were engrossed in admiring the carvings and decorations in the rooms. Occasionally, we would come across a few rooms with closed doors, and some monks inside would look back at us through the windows with calm eyes, as if they were quite used to these curious tourists.

Stepping into a room on the third floor, I was suddenly confronted by three monks holding three horns almost as tall as themselves, and an elderly monk who seemed to be the leader. Waiting for the elder monk's signal, the three monks simultaneously blew their horns, creating a resounding sound that signaled 12 noon, and perhaps some other predetermined time that I was unaware of.

From the top floor, you can gaze out at the scenery, the landscape stretching far into the distance. A group of monks in red robes were also standing there, whispering and admiring the view, occasionally glancing at us before acting as if nothing had happened. I'm the type who likes to travel slowly, exploring each place at my leisure, so it was almost 1 a.m. by the time we returned to the main courtyard, it was already past midnight. Luckily, the tourists had thinned out by then, allowing us to take photos and check in without anyone bothering us.

Surrounding the Songzanlin Monastery are the private homes of residents who all follow Tibetan Tantric Buddhism, creating a unique Buddhist village. They live simple lives, adhering to Tibetan cultural and religious traditions. Visitors can interact and immerse themselves in the daily lives of the residents, discovering their unique culture and spiritual traditions. The traditional houses of the village are built of wood and stone, reflecting the distinctive Tibetan architecture. Small, winding paths through the village create a beautiful and romantic atmosphere. Songzanlin village also features traditional shops and markets where visitors can purchase unique Tibetan handicrafts such as robes, scarves, jewelry, and crafts made from wood, stone, and metal.

A few things to keep in mind when traveling to Shangri La.

• If you're taking a combined Lijiang and Shangri-La tour, it's advisable to visit Lijiang first and then Shangri-La to gradually acclimatize to the altitude and thin air.
• You can also take brain circulation tablets to help improve blood flow.
• You should bring hot tea or ginger tea to warm yourself up, and moisturizer because the climate here is very dry.
• Prioritize wearing white, yellow, or red clothing for better photo shoots. Use a wide-angle lens for landscape and architectural shots.

Check out our package tour information, departing from Hanoi, with Vietravel:

Route: Kunming - Lijiang - Shangrila (5 days 4 nights)

China Eastern Airlines - Departure dates: August 22nd; September 19th - Package price from: 17,900,000 VND

Road and high-speed train: Hekou - Dali - Lijiang - Shangrila - Kunming - Visit the filming locations of the movie "Go to Where the Wind Blows" (6 days 5 nights)

Departure dates: August 2, 9, 16, 23, 30; September 6, 13, 20, 27 - Package price from: 14,900,000 VND

View the tour program at: https://travel.com.vn/tim-tour/3/2/2023-07-26/0/6/ket-qua.aspx

For detailed consultation, please contact:

Vietravel Tourism Company - Hanoi Branch

No. 03 Hai Ba Trung Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Phone number: 024. 3933 1978 - Hotline: 0989370033 | 0983 16 00 22

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