Legend of Giang Pass

Giang Pass viewed from above.

From the historic mountain pass

Every road has its own destiny. But few roads possess such a strange fate, such a great "transformation," as Giang Pass. It was born from colonial intentions, yet history chose it as the place to bury those intentions.

National Highway 3, the section from Hanoi to Bac Kan - Cao Bang, has been known as the "land of mountain passes" since the French colonial era. After the relatively flat Phu Thong pass, the route reveals the ruggedness of the Northeast terrain with a series of mountain passes such as Giang, Gio, Cao Bac, Ma Phuc...

Even a French traveler, in his article "Sur les cimes" (On the mountaintop) in Le Courrier Automobile (issue 166, May 15, 1931), recounted his trip to Ba Be: "About twenty kilometers from Bac Kan , you will pass through Giang Pass, where amidst the dense forest, the wildness reminds me of the road crossing the Annamite Mountains... However, the roads in Tonkin are still much better than those in Annam." More than a century has passed, and the road codenamed "Route Coloniale n°3" (Colonial Road No. 3) is now a smooth, paved surface. But history is not easily eroded by wheels and time. It remains, silently, in old documents, in the memories of time, and in the sound of the wind whistling through the rocks at the top of the pass.

In the winter of 1947, the Viet Bac - Autumn-Winter Campaign unfolded in fierce confrontation. Ultimately, the French forces were forced to retreat from Bac Kan along National Highway 3, fleeing towards Cho Moi. The historic battle took place on the morning of December 12, 1947. The location chosen by the Command of Regiment 165 (also known as the Capital Regiment) was a precise tactical calculation: at kilometer 187-188 on National Highway 3, in Lang Ngam commune, Ngan Son district (formerly). The terrain, with high mountains on one side and a deep ravine on the other, was truly an ideal location for the ambush.

The 165th Regiment had set up an ambush here. When the French motorized convoy of 22 vehicles (including tanks, armored vehicles, and troop carriers) completely entered the "death trap," our troops opened fire simultaneously. The result was a resounding victory. We killed 60 enemy soldiers (including two lieutenants), destroyed and burned 17 motorized vehicles, and captured 2 million Indochinese francs along with many important weapons and military equipment.

Signpost indicating the location of the counterattack by the army and people of Viet Bac in December 1947.

This sign indicates the location of the counterattack by the army and people of Viet Bac in December 1947.

Issue 92 of the newspaper Sự Thật (Truth), published on May 1, 1948, in the series "Major Battles in Việt Bắc," described the "Đèo Giàng Battle" as "a major battle that marked the beginning of a series of resounding victories." The article stated: "...Our troops ambushed the enemy in the rugged mountainous region, completely annihilating an enemy battalion, seizing many weapons, and thwarting their plan to retreat via the Đèo Giàng Pass..." The significance of this battle far surpassed mere numbers.

This was a large-scale battle that provided valuable lessons on battalion-level ambush tactics, which were later applied and developed throughout the resistance war against the French.

From this resounding battle, Giang Pass became a historical landmark, a source of pride for the people and soldiers of Bac Kan at that time in particular and Viet Bac in general. This victory also served as a transition to the attack on Phu Thong fort (July 25, 1948), which continued to create a great impact, strongly encouraging the young armed forces and contributing to the complete defeat of the French colonialists' plot in the Viet Bac war zone.

Towards cultural icons

The greatness of Giang Pass is not limited to a single military victory. Many battles took place during the resistance against the French, but not every place has entered poetry and lived a different life.

In 1954, the poet Tố Hữu distilled the most poignant, painful yet heroic aspects of the war into literature. When he wrote, "We return, remembering Phủ Thông, Giàng Pass," that name completed the journey of the road. Thus, from an administrative target (in 1920) to a military coordinate (in 1947), Giàng Pass became a cultural symbol (in 1954). Giàng Pass, standing beside the Lô River and Ràng town, was no longer just a pass, but an integral part of the revolutionary homeland. That line of poetry gave Giàng Pass a lasting memory in the nation's history.

Returning to Giang Pass today, the road has been slightly straightened and widened. Heavy container trucks crawl slowly past, while tourist vehicles glide along. It's early winter, and mist hangs like a thin silk ribbon over the pass summit. To commemorate this historical event, in 2001, the Ministry of Culture and Information (now the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism) classified Giang Pass as a National Historical Monument. The monument is solemnly constructed, with a large bas-relief on the left depicting the Battle of Giang Pass from the past; on the right is a commemorative plaque recording the history of the battle.

A familiar roadside rest stop for tourists and drivers when conquering Giang Pass.

A familiar roadside rest stop for tourists and drivers alike when conquering Giang Pass.

This place has become an "open-air school," a stopping point for today's generation to better understand the sacrifices of their ancestors. But in the hurried flow of modern life, how many people rush past without stopping? The name "Giang Pass" remains, but its meaning is being challenged by speed. The once "arduous" road is now conquered far too easily. However, history is not lost. It is merely hidden. It is hidden in the reliefs, in the silent stone tablets. "Col de Deo-Giang" is a name of conquest. "Giang Pass" is the name of reclaimment.

The Giàng Pass is now a heritage site, a reminder that the road we travel is built from many layers. Beneath the modern asphalt lies a layer of crushed stone from 1947, and even deeper is a layer of boulders from 1920. If you ever travel through the Giàng Pass, with one half belonging to Na Phac commune and the other to Phu Thong commune, please stop for a few minutes. Listen to the wind from the vast forest blowing over the stone monument, and see that history remains incredibly alive, right on the road beneath your feet...

Source: https://baothainguyen.vn/van-hoa/202511/huyen-thoai-deo-giang-b1722a3/