The train station and the trains

Việt Nam•12/04/2024

Nha Trang is a small and beautiful city; its small size means everything is close together, with easily accessible intersections and famous landmarks. It's near the modern Cam Ranh International Airport and has a large port capable of receiving international ships carrying thousands of tourists. But what people remember most is the train station. Located right in the city center, Nha Trang Station is a historical landmark. For the people of Nha Trang, it's a place that must be cherished, preserved, and protected. Nha Trang residents are proud that from Nha Trang Station, they can easily travel anywhere, both north and south.

Nha Trang Train Station

Around mid-1975, I started choosing the train to commute to work when I was working in Tu Bong (Van Ninh district). At that time, many young people from Nha Trang went to work in the northern districts, especially those in the education sector. We stayed in local houses and only returned to Nha Trang once every one or two weeks for the weekend. Tu Bong wasn't as densely populated then as it is now, so there was only one bus a day to Nha Trang at 4 or 5 in the morning. The passengers were mainly women bringing shrimp, fish, and vegetables to the markets in Nha Trang, so our choice remained the train for both going and returning.

Tu Bong Station is located right at the turnoff to Van Gia town. It's a small, insignificant station, just a small building with a ticket booth, the rest being a waiting area for passengers. Back then, there were only local trains, and they didn't travel very fast. When the train whistle sounded in the distance, passengers would stand near the tracks. Before the train even stopped, passengers would rush aboard, jostling through the narrow doorways hoping to find a seat. The train carriages only had two rows of wooden seats against the walls, so many people had to stand in the middle of the carriage, swaying with the rhythm of the moving train. These trains usually departed from Tuy Hoa ( Phu Yen province ), and two of them stopped at Tu Bong Station.

The train was busier on weekends than on other days because of the more young teachers working in the districts from Tu Bong southward. They only saw each other once or twice a week, so they had plenty to talk about, and of course, whether standing or sitting, knowing they were about to go home was enough to make them happy. Those local trains stopped at every station for five or seven minutes; from Tu Bong station, it wasn't long before the train stopped at Van Gia station. Another commotion ensued, as more people inevitably boarded – friends of someone else on the train.

When I was lucky enough to get a seat, I liked to look out the train window at the rice fields and mountain peaks the train passed by, which later became landmarks to help me know where I was. The names of the stations also became familiar, even if they were small stations the train didn't stop at, such as Lac An Station, Hoa Huynh Station...; Ninh Hoa Station was a large station where the train stopped for a longer time. Anyone who had boarded at the previous stations would look towards the door to see if any friends were getting on, because Ninh Hoa was where many people from Nha Trang came to work. When they met, they would shake hands and exchange greetings, laughing and talking loudly as if they hadn't seen each other in a long time.

From Ninh Hoa to Nha Trang, there are sections of railway tracks very close to the highway, so the train runs parallel to the vehicles on the road below. After passing Ninh Ich, people on the train inevitably see their friends hunched over cycling below, so everyone waves and shouts their friends' names. Those cycling might not recognize anyone, but they still wave until only the last carriage of the train is visible. After passing through a small tunnel and reaching Ngoc Hoi station, Nha Trang is within sight, and many people start pushing their way to the exits. We usually say goodbye right by the railway tracks, hastily promising to meet again on Monday morning, and then each goes their own way home.

For a long time after leaving Tu Bong, I didn't travel by train and didn't know how the railway system had changed until my child went to Saigon to take the university entrance exam. The changes in the railway system impressed many people around the year 2000, when trains began to have modern, air-conditioned double-decker carriages. Journeys became more enjoyable as many people appreciated this progress. Gradually, with the addition of sleeping carriages, no one remembered the traditional commuter trains anymore. This change made people less hesitant to travel by train and more satisfied with the amenities, and Nha Trang station became even more frequently mentioned.

I've been a passenger on the Nha Trang-Saigon train for many years. The trains now don't have the messy cargo, and the passengers are polite, well-dressed, and have a gentle demeanor. Each compartment only has four passengers, so the conversation is just right, making it easy to communicate without disturbing each other. Because of this easy interaction, I noticed something interesting: most of the women from Nha Trang who take the train are going to Saigon to visit their children studying there. They all carry several baskets or styrofoam boxes and show off their purchases to each other – besides seafood, there's also pho noodles, rice flour for banh canh, and even bread, concluding that their children only like these Nha Trang specialties. This shared preference sounds incredibly endearing, like the phrase "our Nha Trang."

Nha Trang train station has become an integral part of the city, like Hon Chong, the coastline, the mountain church, Long Son Pagoda, etc., in a natural, familiar, and commonplace way, often taking it for granted. Then, rumors surfaced that Nha Trang train station would be moved out of the city center or demolished and replaced with a high-rise building. These rumors touched the hearts of Nha Trang residents, sparking protests and heated debates about protecting the station. Finally, an official announcement was made that Nha Trang train station would remain as a historical monument, and everyone breathed a sigh of relief, feeling as if a refreshing rain had been poured over them.

Now, despite the many transportation options available, I still choose the train whenever I need to go to Saigon. The waiting room at Nha Trang station, though old, is clean, compact, and cozy, with warm yellow lighting that looks quite nice. Sitting in the waiting room and looking out at Thai Nguyen Street, it feels like observing modern city life from a fairytale setting. The old railway tracks stand silently, observing the hugs and farewell waves of those leaving and those staying. Nha Trang station remains a witness to journeys of coming and going, filled with both poignant and joyful moments.

Life is like a train always moving forward, and we are the passengers who always believe in better things to come.

LUU CAM VAN

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