With special geographical conditions, Nam O fish sauce has been created - a typical rural product aiming to become the first geographically indicated product of Da Nang .
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| With many unique characteristics in quality as well as geographical conditions, Nam O fish sauce has been affirming itself as a typical rural product. Photo: PHAM TOAN |
The terrain of the geographical indication area “Nam O” is the coastal plain of Da Nang Bay with diverse nature, including sea, peninsula, river, stream, the bay mouth area sloping gently to the northeast, the distance between the depth contours is quite regular; this is the traditional fish sauce production area of Nam O, belonging to Hoa Hiep Bac ward and Hoa Hiep Nam ward (Lien Chieu district). Surrounding the craft village is a mountainous area with an altitude of about 700 - 1,500m, the steepest slopes are concentrated in the west and northwest, where there are many upstream forests that have the meaning of regulating the marine climate and the mountainous climate, creating a good and sustainable ecological environment for the Nam O fish sauce production area.
The general terrain has many mountain ranges running out to the sea, some low hills interspersed with narrow coastal plains creating river mouths such as Han River, Cu De River and some shallows, underground depressions (riverbeds) creating underground water sources containing many pure minerals serving fish sauce production and daily life. Currently, in Nam O there are still many ancient Cham wells that prove this natural condition.
Air temperature in Nam O is an important factor that greatly affects the quality of Nam O fish sauce. According to recorded data, the maximum and minimum monthly temperatures in Nam O show that the high-low temperature amplitude varies greatly between day and night, about 6.5oC. The large difference in temperature amplitude between day and night in Nam O affects the natural fermentation process, metabolism, and protein breakdown in the early period from April to September. During this period, fish and salt are put into incubation to produce a type of water called "nuoc boi".
When the daytime temperature is high, about 34oC, it creates conditions for microorganisms to multiply cells and create air bubbles, causing the water in the jar to rise. At night, the temperature drops to 26oC, reducing the activity of microorganisms, and the water in the jar drops. Just like that, over a long period of 4-5 months, the water in the jar rises and falls, causing the exchange of salt and fish to be regular and continuous. Thereby, it limits the spoilage of the fish in the jar, which is the cause of the formation of ammonia nitrogen (a substance that causes an unpleasant odor) in the fish sauce. In addition, the rise and fall of the water in the jar also helps to completely decompose proteins into amino acids (nutrients and aroma) in the finished Nam O fish sauce.
Nam O fish sauce is produced from 95% fresh anchovies and 5% very small amounts of small mixed fish. Nam O fish sauce makers use the pressing method for the first 3 months and stir for the remaining time so that the bones and fish meat dissolve evenly to create fish sauce. When the water turns a cockroach-brown color, the fish sauce is ripe and filtered. The fermentation time is over 12 months. The fish sauce maker uses many layers of clean cloth to line a large bamboo funnel and let each drop of fish sauce slowly drip down and only filters once to get the fish sauce essence. Then, take this fish sauce essence to a high, dry place for about 5-10 days to let the water vapor evaporate to create a stable color.
Therefore, in terms of sensory characteristics, Nam O fish sauce does not change color but only has a cockroach brown color, a characteristic strong aroma as well as a salty taste, and a long lasting sweet aftertaste. In terms of biochemical characteristics, the amino acid nitrogen content compared to total nitrogen is not less than 43.5% and increases with the increase in total nitrogen content. The ammonia nitrogen content compared to total nitrogen is not greater than 14.2% and decreases with the increase in total nitrogen and amino acid nitrogen content.
The earthenware jars used to ferment Nam O fish sauce are round and made of baked clay, so they are durable and sturdy, have antibacterial properties, and are resistant to salt corrosion. On the other hand, the earthenware jars are isothermal (good heat retention and heat resistance, stable and less likely to change). When fermented during the fermentation process, biological reactions will generate heat, so they are not affected by adverse factors for a long time of more than 12 months. Nam O fish sauce is only filtered once to get the fish sauce essence, without mixing, the remaining fish residue will be discarded and the jars will be washed to prepare for the next batch of fish sauce.
It can be said that Nam O fish sauce is the crystallization of the quintessence of the Da Nang sea, and at the same time contains many unique historical and cultural values of the local community. In 1958, Nam O fish sauce, Hong - Huong brand at No. 42 National Highway No. 1 - Nam O, was recognized by the Pasteur Institute as pure and premium under License No. 4267 dated July 15, 1958. In 1978, Nam O fish sauce won the Third Prize in the Central - Central Highlands region at the Da Lat Agricultural Fair. In 2009, Nam O fish sauce products were granted a Nam O fish sauce collective trademark certificate by the National Office of Intellectual Property of Vietnam to the Nam O fish sauce craft village association under Decision No. 26266/QD-SHTT dated December 16, 2009 and was extended under Decision No. 1973/QD-SHTT dated January 9, 2018. Nam O fish sauce is a prestigious brand in 2006 granted by the International Fair Center.
Nam O fish sauce was awarded the 1,000th anniversary of Thang Long - Hanoi medal in 2010. In 2016, Nam O fish sauce was certified as a typical rural industrial product of Da Nang city. In 2017, Nam O fish sauce was awarded the famous agricultural product brand by the Organizing Committee of the program to build and promote Vietnamese agricultural products and brands.
Many famous traditional Nam O fish sauce brands such as Huong Lang Co, Di Sau, Di Nhut, Binh Minh, O Long, Tran Ngoc Vinh, Ba Cu, Ba Hoa, Ba Sieng, Ba Lu, Bay Tri, Hai Hiep, Hai Lien, Bay Ngung, Hong Huong... are gradually dominating the markets of major cities such as Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. On August 27, 2019, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism issued Decision No. 2974/QD-BVHTTDL recognizing "The Nam O fish sauce making profession in Hoa Hiep Nam ward, Hoa Hiep Bac ward, Lien Chieu district, Da Nang city as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage".
This is a great pride, a worthy reward, recognizing the efforts of the Lien Chieu district government, Da Nang city and especially the people of Nam O fishing village in preserving the traditional fish sauce making profession with a history of hundreds of years and a great motivation for the villagers to continue to promote the reputation and historical value of the product "Nam O fish sauce" in the direction of both promoting the heritage value, preserving the traditional fish sauce making profession and developing tourism in a sustainable direction.
VU THI BICH HAU
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