Pho restaurant opened during the time when 'customers ate while running from bombs', the owner both sold and sang Kieu

The pho restaurant is nestled in a small alley at 61 Dinh Tien Hoang, opposite Hoan Kiem Lake (Hanoi), and has been around for 7 decades.

Editor's note:

The capital Hanoi is a place where many culinary quintessence of the country converge, attracting tourists to enjoy and explore. There are traditional culinary brands that have existed through many historical periods, becoming places to preserve memories of Hanoians.

VietNamNet Newspaper would like to introduce to readers the series of articles on the brand 'preserving Hanoi's memories' .

During all that time, the restaurant was still there with a few tables placed against the old alley wall, a simple kitchen corner with a cutting board, a "never-stopping" knife, a pot of simmering broth, a basket full of pho noodles and several trays of well-done beef, flank, rare, and brisket.

Customers come and sit when they see empty seats, because the restaurant does not have separate tables for each group of customers. Occasionally, a motorbike driver will swerve in/out of the alley, and customers reflexively move closer to the table. Even though the people living in this alley are "excellent drivers", very familiar with moving around in small spaces.

Sometimes when there is no more room, regular customers will proactively sit at a tea shop or order another cup of coffee to "sit" at the surrounding shops.

Pho Thin is nestled in alley 61 Dinh Tien Hoang

In the memoir Old Stories of Hanoi , writer To Hoai mentioned Pho Thin like this:

"During the anti-American war, on nights when the US bombed Hanoi, only Mr. Thin's Pho restaurant on Hang Dau remained open all night" or "At midnight, when planes swooped down to bomb Long Bien Bridge, only Mr. Thin's Pho restaurant was open. Sometimes when the alarm went off, we had to carry our bowls of pho to our personal hole near the edge of Hoan Kiem Lake to continue eating."

Pho Thin appears in the work, partly proving the restaurant's attachment to a part of Hanoi people from many years ago.

Pho Thin was opened at 61 Dinh Tien Hoang in 1955 by Mr. Bui Chi Thin (1928-2001).

According to Mr. Bui Chi Thanh - the eldest grandson, the current owner of the restaurant, Mr. Thin was from Hoai Duc, old Ha Tay (now Hanoi). In his youth, he joined the guerrilla militia and was then arrested by the French colonialists and imprisoned in Hoa Lo prison.

In 1952, after being released, he stayed in Hanoi to earn a living, working for a relative who sold pho on a street stall. From doing odd jobs, he gradually learned the trade and then opened his own pho stall.

Mr. Thanh, the current owner of the pho restaurant

Initially, Mr. Thin carried his pho cart from Ham Long street to Yen Phu water plant, then returned to stop at "Au Tri Vien" (later Hanoi Children's Palace) on Ly Thai To street, Hoan Kiem district.

After the liberation of the capital, he and his wife, Nguyen Thi Ty, opened a pho restaurant at the entrance of the alley where their family lived to earn money to raise their 9 children.

"My father told me that back then, making pho was hard. Water had to be carried from the beginning of the street. Electricity was intermittent, sometimes there was, sometimes there wasn't. My grandfather was famous for being funny and accommodating. While making pho, he would recite Kieu or sing Chau Van songs," Thanh shared.

Mr. Thin's bowls of pho with clear, light broth and no smell of beef fat are spread by word of mouth among diners, thanks to which the restaurant is increasingly crowded.

Bowls of pho with clear broth and light taste are the restaurant's specialty.

Mr. Thin taught the pho profession to his children. "My grandfather had 5 sons and 4 daughters. At one point, the 5 sons had 5 different pho restaurants, and 2 of the 4 daughters also had their own pho restaurant," said Mr. Thanh.

The facility at 61 Dinh Tien Hoang was passed on to the eldest son Bui Chi Hoa (1955-2021) and now the eldest grandson Bui Chi Thanh.

"I was born and raised in alley 61 Dinh Tien Hoang, next to the pho pot and the charcoal stove that never went out of my grandparents and parents.

I remember, when I was 5 or 6 years old, my grandfather no longer stood selling pho but often sat on a chair in the alley, observing each step of making pho for my parents, chatting happily with regular customers," said Mr. Thanh.

He still remembers the image of his grandfather, early in the morning, riding his bike out of the alley to "surprisely inspect" his children's pho restaurant. He went there to check the ingredients and observe whether the cooking method was safe and in accordance with his instructions.

"The sons opened pho restaurants, and the daughters were given the responsibility of producing and selling ingredients such as beef and pho noodles. Back then, the pho restaurants in my family operated almost completely and smoothly thanks to my grandfather's progressive management thinking," said Mr. Thanh.

The pho restaurant is small, cramped but always crowded.

Over time, Mr. Thanh's uncles and aunts, some of whom have passed away, some of whom have no children, took over the restaurant. Currently, in addition to Dinh Tien Hoang, Mr. Thin's descendants also have pho restaurants in Hang Tre, Le Van Huu, Kim Ma and a facility about to open in Nguyen Van Tuyet.

For 70 years, Pho Thin Bo Ho has served rare, well-done, flank, and brisket pho with clear broth.

Born into a family that makes pho, Thanh was used to waiting tables and washing dishes since he was young.

"When I went to college, I majored in graphic design. But every weekend, holiday, and Tet, I came home to help my parents serve tables, break bones, and make broth. Whatever work was given, I did it, from wiping the table clean, everything was taught."

After graduating, Thanh worked as a graphic designer and ran a coffee shop for a while. In 2015, when his parents' health began to decline, Thanh put his job on hold to learn a trade and take over the pho restaurant.

"Since I was little, I helped my parents, so I didn't have too much difficulty learning to cook pho, slice meat, and stand in the kitchen to sell," said Mr. Thanh.

Mr. Thanh prepares the bones before simmering the broth.

When his parents assigned him to manage the pho restaurant, Mr. Thanh and his wife - Ms. Ngoc Thu - personally repainted the walls covered with coal dust and fixed the tables and chairs.

"Before that, for about 60 years, my grandparents and parents used coal to boil water. When I became a daughter-in-law, my whole family gave me a 'family heirloom', a crowbar to poke the coals. That coal stove never went out, working diligently day after day," Ms. Thu said.

"Later, following the city's directive, my husband and I replaced coal with gas. Thanh does not use an electric stove because it has to be heated by fire to be able to adjust it to his liking," said Ms. Thu.

According to Mr. Thanh, Pho Thin has the characteristics of old Hanoi Pho and until now, he and his wife still try to preserve that flavor. The broth does not use cinnamon, star anise, fish sauce but adds ginger and common spices.

"Depending on the amount of bones and meat each day, I will adjust and simmer the broth for the appropriate amount of time. Based on experience, I can guess the strength of the broth by looking at the color or smelling the smell," said Mr. Thanh.

Pho Thin Bo Ho broth does not use cinnamon, star anise, fish sauce but adds ginger and common spices.

He revealed that to have a delicious bowl of pho, his family uses old but fresh beef. This type of meat is sweet and delicious, making the broth richer.

The cooked meat or brisket is boiled until cooked, sliced ​​as customers order, to ensure the meat is not dry. The rare beef is tenderized, thinly sliced ​​with a large knife and placed in a bowl.

The owner added green onions and quickly poured in a ladle of boiling broth. The heat from the broth cooked the meat until it was just right, and when it was served to the customer, the meat retained its sweetness.

8-9:30 is the time when customers come and go in droves. The rows of tables in the alley are all full, as one customer stands up, another will take his place. Mr. Thanh and another employee take turns slicing the meat.

The sound of knives and chopping boards, the sound of people ordering food, and the noise of vehicles have become typical features of Pho Thin Bo Ho restaurant.

The restaurant owner still cuts meat by hand instead of using a machine.

In recent years, the taste of Pho Thin has received mixed reviews. But one thing is undeniable: Pho Thin Bo Ho attracts many international tourists and the media.

When taking over the pho restaurant, Thanh and Thu designed the advertising signboard, created a website, fanpage, took photos, and wrote articles to share the story of their family's pho business.

“We researched culinary events and signed up to participate, hoping to introduce our brand to more people,” said Ms. Thu. After just a few years, Pho Thin Bo Ho regularly appeared at major events.

In 2019, the Hanoi People's Committee ordered about 4,000 bowls of Pho Thin Bo Ho to serve the US-North Korea Summit. This pho dish received many positive reviews from international journalists and reporters.

At the end of 2023, in the program "Vietnam Day in France 2023" with the message "Cherish the past, look to the future", the story of Pho Thin Bo Ho was introduced. In Paris, visitors directly watched and enjoyed a bowl of pho served by Mr. Bui Chi Thanh.

Ms. Thu, Mr. Thanh's wife, serves pho at "Vietnam Day in France 2023". Photo: Pho Thin Bo Ho

The restaurant has appeared in international media many times. In the series "In search of Unami - S1E3: Hanoi - Sauces and Essences", Channel New Asia praised the delicious taste of the traditional pho bowl preserved and promoted by Mr. Thin's descendants.

Many customers asked Mr. Thanh: "Why is the restaurant always hidden in a small alley?". He said that the restaurant first opened in this alley, experienced many ups and downs of the city, marking the memories of 3 generations in the family.

“In my memory and that of many guests, Pho Thin Bo Ho is like that, located in a small alley, near Hoan Kiem Lake, with an old nostalgic feel. I want to keep that characteristic.

And for new guests, I hope that when they come here, they will find an experience that is close to Hanoi but also different," Mr. Thanh shared.

Pho Thin currently attracts many international tourists.

Currently, Hanoi has a policy of relocating some offices and houses in the East of Hoan Kiem Lake, Hoan Kiem District to expand public space. Mr. Thanh's family's Pho Thin restaurant is located in the relocation area.

"This year, we plan to organize some activities to thank our customers on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the pho restaurant at 61 Dinh Tien Hoang. When we learned about the city's policy, the whole family was surprised.

We are trying to find a new location and also hope the government will support us so that we can continue to keep the Pho Thin Bo Ho brand located near Hoan Kiem Lake as it has been for the past 70 years," said Mr. Thanh.

Pho Thin restaurant at 61 Dinh Tien Hoang is about to move, causing many people to regret.

Hearing that the famous pho restaurant in Hanoi might relocate, many diners came to enjoy the restaurant, before this place becomes just a memory.

"We have been eating pho here since we were very young and each bowl of pho only costs 15-20,000 VND. In the blink of an eye, those girls have become grandmothers.

But every time we go to the city, we always go to Pho Thin. If Pho Thin leaves this alley, no longer located next to Hoan Kiem Lake like it has been for decades, not only me but many people will feel disappointed," said Ms. Pham Thi Ngoc Lan (Bac Tu Liem, Hanoi).

"But if Mr. Thin's descendants can preserve the traditional pho profession, wherever the restaurant opens, customers will come to support it," Ms. Lan and her friends added.

Ms. Lan (in blue shirt) and her friends came to enjoy Pho Thin.

The most conservative 4-generation pho restaurant in Hanoi, the grandson from abroad comes to take over the business . The pho of Mr. Chieu's family in Hang Dong (Hoan Kiem district) is called by many diners as the most "conservative" pho restaurant in Hanoi. For decades, the restaurant has absolutely not served lemon, only using garlic vinegar.

Source: https://vietnamnet.vn/quan-pho-mo-tu-thoi-khach-vua-an-vua-chay-bom-ong-chu-vua-ban-vua-lay-kieu-2390565.html