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Mango Sticky Rice - a delicious summer dish in Thailand

VnExpressVnExpress17/04/2024


Mango sticky rice is found both on the streets and on the menus of high-end restaurants, and is called the best summer dessert by dedicated Thai chefs.

Thailand has more than 200 varieties of mango grown throughout the country, but to make khao nieow mamuang - mango sticky rice - one of the most beloved desserts, foodies say there are very few mangoes that can be used.

Mango sticky rice looks simple at first glance: slices of ripe mango cut into bite-sized pieces, placed next to a handful of sticky rice topped with coconut milk and crushed peanuts. If done right, the result is a “miracle” of perfectly balanced flavors and textures. One of Bangkok’s most famous makers of mango sticky rice is Varee Jennsuwan, 63, known as the “queen of mango sticky rice.”

Mango sticky rice is decorated at the 2-Michelin-starred restaurant R-Haan Bangkok. Photo: Instagram/R-Haan restaurant

Mango sticky rice is decorated at the 2-Michelin-starred restaurant R-Haan Bangkok. Photo: Instagram/R-Haan restaurant

"The best summer dessert in Thailand is mango sticky rice," Varee said. According to her, March to May is when mangoes are at their best, naturally sweet, plentiful, and cheap. The sticky rice is fragrant because it has just been harvested.

Thai nam dok mai mango is the most popular variety for making mango sticky rice because of its rich sweetness and smooth texture. The best dok mai mangoes are grown in Bangkhla County, Chacheonseo Province.

Another variety is the oak rong mango, which originates from Damnoen Saduak district, Ratchaburi province. This mango is hard to find, with only a small harvest in January and more in March-April.

Varee says that while mango plays a major role in khao nieow mamuang, the other ingredients are equally important. She chooses sticky rice grown in the country’s northernmost province, Chiang Rai. The coconut is grown in the southern province of Suratthani because it has a rich flavor that goes well with the sticky rice. The peanuts are roasted rather than fried, giving them a light crunch. Even the salt used to make the coconut milk is carefully sourced by Varee from Samut Sakorn, a coastal province south of Bangkok.

People of all ages love mango sticky rice. In 2022, at the Coachella music festival in California, USA, Thai rapper Milli (Danupha Khanatheerakul) ended her performance by scooping a bowl of mango sticky rice. The act sparked a nationwide craving for this dish. In Bangkok, famous mango sticky rice shops were flooded with orders, with long lines of delivery drivers waiting to pick up the orders.

Mango sticky rice at K Panich shop. Photo: CNN

Mango sticky rice at K Panich shop. Photo: CNN

Among those benefiting from the Milli effect is K Panich, the capital’s oldest mango sticky rice restaurant, located just a 15-minute walk from the Grand Palace. Open since 1932, the restaurant was awarded the 2019 Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide – a distinction given to restaurants that offer a fine dining experience at affordable prices without compromising on quality. On weekdays, the restaurant is packed with tourists, locals and delivery drivers waiting for their food. Tables, baskets and crates are piled high with bright yellow nam dok mai mangoes. Those who want to eat there are directed to the smoothie shop across the street to sit and enjoy the mango sticky rice.

Saowalak Chaimeesuk, 54, is a guest at K Panich. When asked why mango sticky rice is a popular summer dish in Thailand, she said it was largely “related to nostalgia”. “Before, we couldn’t grow nam dok mai all year round. Now agriculture is developed so we can grow it in any season,” she said.

Inside K Panich restaurant. Photo: CNN

Inside K Panich restaurant. Photo: CNN

Khun Nan's manager said the secret to the shop's survival was its "commitment to sourcing the country's top ingredients" and revealed that dozens of international customers visited the shop every day after the pandemic.

“It is a testament to the finesse and deliciousness that Thai cuisine is famous for,” says chef and owner of R-Haan Bangkok Chumpol Jangprai.

Varee's customers, in addition to locals, also come from mainland China, Hong Kong, and Singapore. "They say if you haven't eaten mango sticky rice at my restaurant, it's like you haven't been to Thailand," the sticky rice queen shared.

Anh Minh (According to CNN )



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