Bun Xiem Lo - Traditional dish of Khmer people

Rustic Phum Soc flavor

The Khmer people's secret lies in their delicate seasoning technique, which helps remove the fishy smell of snakehead fish and soften the pungent smell of turmeric.

Early in the morning, when the sun was still hiding behind the trees, the small kitchen of Mrs. Thi Ranh (70 years old), living in Go Quao commune, was already red with fire. The pot of broth was placed on a steaming wood stove, she slowly dropped each fish ball into the pot as if sending her love to the traditional dish. She said: “When I was poor, I had a snakehead fish, a coconut, and a little turmeric to cook a pot of noodles for the whole family. This dish is simple but I never get tired of eating it. We Khmer people have been familiar with this taste since we were young, the smell of turmeric and snakehead fish reminds me of home.”

Bun xiem lo is cooked with ingredients close to people's lives, in which snakehead fish - a familiar fish in ponds and fields - is the "soul" of the dish. When the clear broth is made from fresh coconut water boiling on the stove, crushed turmeric and crushed lemongrass are added, creating a sweet taste and a characteristic warm aroma. Snakehead fish meat is pounded until soft, then rolled into balls, flattened or cut into squares; the fish head and raw fish cakes are often cooked with fresh turmeric to make the broth golden and fragrant.

In the quiet space of the village in the early morning, the smell of freshly chopped turmeric mixed with the smell of lemongrass and hot coconut water spread a special aroma, signaling to the whole family that grandma was about to finish the pot of bun xiem lo. The bun xiem lo dish was also served with water fern picked from the rice field behind the house, crispy and fragrant with the smell of the countryside, and a plate of red hand-pounded chili salt.

For the Khmer people, bun xiem lo is not only a delicious dish, but also a memory, a story passed down from grandmother to mother, then to child. Mr. Danh Soc Ruol, living in Go Quao commune, currently working in Ho Chi Minh City , was moved when mentioning the noodle dish of his childhood: "Every time I go back to my hometown, I ask my grandmother to cook bun xiem lo. Eating a piece of fish cake, smelling the turmeric, I suddenly miss my hometown, miss the mornings when the whole family gathered together. In the city, I can't find this flavor of my hometown."

The combination brings the breath of the sea

Leaving the village to come to Ha Tien, bun xiem has taken on a new, more modern look but still retains its distinctive flavor. The chef replaced snakehead fish with fresh sea fish, with firm meat and a strong salty taste of the sea. At Nang Nguyen restaurant (Mac Tu Hoang street), Ms. Nguyen Thi Nang has been cooking this noodle dish for more than 10 years. She shared: “The sea fish is boiled and the meat is separated, I pound some of it into patties, and leave the rest intact. The broth is still cooked with coconut water for a sweet taste. The accompanying vegetables include water lily, shredded morning glory, and bean sprouts, which suit the taste of Ha Tien people and tourists.”

Ms. Nguyen Thi Nang prepares vermicelli noodles to serve tourists .

Mr. Ha Quoc Dang, a tourist from Ho Chi Minh City, enjoyed it for the first time: “I have eaten many noodle dishes but none of them are like this. The broth is clear, with a light turmeric aroma, not too strong. The sea fish is chewy and naturally sweet. Especially the shredded water spinach with lotus is very unique. A dish that is both familiar and very new.”

Nowadays, in modern society, Bun Xiem Lo has followed the Khmer people out of the village, everywhere, but still retains its rich flavor, a dish that makes tourists fascinated from the first time they enjoy it, and those far from home remember it forever.

Article and photos: DANH THANH

Source: https://baoangiang.com.vn/bun-xiem-lo-mon-an-truyen-thong-cua-dong-bao-khmer-a467628.html