The leaders of the Department of Culture and Sports received the title of national intangible cultural heritage "Knowledge of sewing and wearing Hue Ao Dai" from Vice Chairman of the Provincial People's Committee Phan Quy Phuong.

Attending the event were Member of the Provincial Party Committee, Head of the Provincial Party Committee's Inspection Commission Pham Thi Minh Hue; Member of the Provincial Party Committee, Secretary of the Hue City Party Committee Phan Thien Dinh; Chairwoman of the Vietnam Fatherland Front Committee of the province Nguyen Thi Ai Van; Vice Chairman of the Provincial People's Committee Phan Quy Phuong... Along with many researchers, artisans, designers, and tailors of Ao Dai in Hue and across the country.

Raised in the cultural region that was once the Capital

Previously, on August 9, 2024, the Minister of Culture, Sports and Tourism issued a Decision to officially register the national intangible cultural heritage with the name "Knowledge of Sewing and Wearing Ao Dai of Hue People".

At the ceremony, Mr. Phan Thanh Hai - Director of the Department of Culture and Sports introduced the history of the ao dai. According to Mr. Hai, the five-panel ao dai, the predecessor of the modern Vietnamese ao dai, was born in Dang Trong, closely associated with the history of the formation and development of the land of Thuan Hoa - Phu Xuan. This is the result of the creativity of Vietnamese people on the way to the South, expanding the country's territory to the South.

Since 1744, the 8th Nguyen Lord in Dang Trong, Nguyen Phuc Khoat, decided to choose this type of clothing as the daily wear for all the people of Dang Trong (from Gianh River, Quang Binh to the end of the present-day Southern region). In the early 19th century, during the period of national unification, Emperor Minh Mang continued to choose the Ngu Than shirt as the common dress for all the Vietnamese people. During the period from 1837-1945, the Ngu Than shirt was very popular in both the North and the South, and was considered the national costume of the Vietnamese people.

The Ao Ngu Than is considered a formal, discreet outfit with many humane meanings, very suitable for the body shape as well as the feelings of Vietnamese people.

Over a history of more than 300 years, generations of Hue artisans have accumulated a lot of knowledge about sewing and wearing Ao Dai, which clearly symbolizes the aesthetic and moral standards of society. Entering the modern era, Hue Ao Dai is still used by many people, most commonly by students, civil servants, middle-aged and elderly people, and women doing small business in shops and markets...

“The biggest difference between Hue Ao Dai and other regions in the country is that it was nurtured on the foundation of a cultural region that was once the capital of the last monarchy of Vietnam. Where the aesthetics of Nguyen Dynasty court costumes with strict regulations spread - intertwined with folk aesthetics to create unique marks on the Ao Dai that are not easily found in other regions,” Mr. Hai commented.

Ao dai has become a cultural tradition and entered poetry.

Besides the traditional elegance and grace, the ao dai also reminds the wearer of human morality, reminds every Hue citizen to cherish, respect, and preserve the precious traditional values left by their ancestors, continue to promote and enhance good values to pass on to future generations.

Women in Ao Dai attend the ceremony to receive the National Intangible Cultural Heritage Title "Knowledge of sewing and wearing Hue Ao Dai"

In Hue, the Ao Dai has become a familiar, beloved image, entering life, closely associated with culture and customs, appearing in all ritual activities, festivals and even in daily life in the ancient capital. It is also an endless source of inspiration for poetry, songs, music, paintings, becoming a symbol of Hue women. When mentioning Hue, people immediately think of the capital associated with many diverse festival activities, along with the image of traditional, rich and graceful Ao Dai.

Leaving home, Hue women all wear Ao Dai. Entering life, whether it is going to school, going out, going to the market, rowing boats on the Perfume River, or selling goods, Hue women also wear Ao Dai. Today, although not keeping the old tradition, the proportion of Ao Dai worn by Hue women when going out is still the highest in the country. Hue men also often use Ao Dai in their solemn activities such as weddings, death anniversaries, temple worship, spring outings, holidays, Tet... Wearing Ao Dai gives men a dignified, majestic demeanor, and women a graceful, elegant demeanor.

Mr. Hai said that Hue Ao Dai tailoring shops are mainly concentrated in Gia Hoi - Cho Dinh, Kim Long, Vi Da, Phu Cam areas... These are areas with long-standing historical and cultural traditions, densely populated and where families and clans with a tradition of tailoring Hue Ao Dai live. Today, the tradition of tailoring and wearing Ao Dai is enhanced and embellished by famous Hue Ao Dai designers and tailors. The technical steps of cutting, sewing, threading, and making buttons are all carefully taken care of by artisans and Ao Dai tailors. The Ao Dai is not simply a garment but a work of art, containing the value of Hue cultural identity.

Young girls and children in ao dai participate in a community event.

The first Ao Dai festival was held during the Hue Festival 2002. Hue was proud to be the first locality in Vietnam to hold a festival to honor the beauty of Ao Dai. Since then, Ao Dai festivals have been held continuously and regularly, not only during festivals.

Thanks to that, the public knows more about the beauty of Ao Dai, Hue Ao Dai is also in high demand, the number of customers coming to have Ao Dai made quickly has increased dramatically. Hue Ao Dai is a synthesis of the fields of weaving, sewing, embroidery, painting, design, fashion, truly a cultural product, aiming to be a cultural industrial product to serve tourism.

The head of the provincial cultural sector also said that the project “Hue - Capital of Vietnamese Ao Dai” with many rich contents has been implemented recently. Subsequently, the Provincial People's Committee issued a decision approving this project, creating a legal basis for the effective implementation of activities to promote and honor Hue Ao Dai, promote economic and tourism development, affirm Hue Ao Dai in the international community, aiming to develop the brand Hue - Capital of Ao Dai.

Proposal to develop a dossier to submit to UNESCO for consideration of inscription as Representative Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

Currently, Thua Thien Hue is promoting the sustainable development of cultural industry. Designing and tailoring Ao Dai is both a handicraft and a special creative design industry, creating impressive and highly popular products. Not to mention the many types of accessories and jewelry that go with Ao Dai. In addition, the Ao Dai cultural industry also creates conditions for the development of other industries such as the production of souvenirs, toys, accessories, cinema, fine arts, etc. This is the direction for the development of cultural industry, serving domestic and export needs, creating jobs, bringing revenue to businesses, increasing income for people, while preserving and spreading the values imbued with Hue's cultural identity.

It can be said that developing the Hue Ao Dai brand abroad is not only a business but also the most effective channel to promote traditional culture. “In the coming time, Thua Thien Hue will continue to make efforts and determination to preserve, promote and further spread the value of Ao Dai in contemporary life. At the same time, we will propose to the provincial leaders and the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism to allow the construction of a scientific dossier "Knowledge of sewing and wearing Hue Ao Dai" to submit to UNESCO for consideration of recognition as a representative intangible cultural heritage of humanity", Mr. Hai shared.

NHAT MINH