The Thoi Ninh dry village is bustling with activity.

In the days leading up to the Lunar New Year of the Horse, the dried seafood processing village in Thoi Ninh area, Thoi An Dong ward, Can Tho city, was bustling. Along National Highway 91B, the drying racks gleamed in the sun, and the stalls were always crowded with customers, carrying the rustic flavors of the Mekong Delta region on every truck to all corners of the country.

Mrs. Bé Sáu at her dried goods stall.

Heading from the center of Can Tho City towards O Mon, near Thoi Ninh Bridge, you'll easily find rows of stalls selling dried fish, with bright red dried snakehead fish hanging along the rows, a very attractive sight. The Thoi Ninh dried snakehead fish village, with over 20 households specializing in making and selling dried fish, enters its peak season for Tet (Lunar New Year) from November of the lunar calendar, with labor capacity increasing two or three times compared to normal days.

From early morning, many families are busy preparing fish, slicing and drying it, and marinating it with spices. Besides mainly dried snakehead fish, the dried fish village also offers other types such as dried striped catfish, dried eel, and dried common catfish... Not only sold to passersby, Thoi Ninh dried fish is also shipped to provinces and even abroad, becoming a quintessential gift from the Mekong Delta.

Ms. Doan Kim Hoa's family is one of the households with a long history in this profession. Within her extended family alone, there are seven households involved in the dried seafood business. Ms. Hoa said: She has been in the business for over 15 years, since the early days when National Highway 91B was first opened. “Back then, people brought fresh fish and wild vegetables to sell to passersby as a trial. Seeing that it sold well, they continued selling them. Then they started drying the fish, and the dried seafood sold out completely. It started with one household, then two, and eventually became a whole village dedicated to this trade,” Ms. Hoa recalled.

Like many other households, Mrs. Hoa set up a small stall to display her dried snakehead fish, next to a drying rack. During the day, she sells her goods while also watching the sun to turn the fish. Thanks to maintaining consistent quality, her dried snakehead fish has gained word-of-mouth among customers, and her number of regular customers is increasing. Currently, every two to three days, she processes about 300 kg of snakehead fish; after three to four days of sun drying, it's ready to sell. Each kilogram of dried snakehead fish costs between 170,000 and 180,000 VND. During the peak season leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year), Mrs. Hoa's stall, like many others, is always "too busy to keep up with demand."

The source of snakehead fish for drying comes steadily from fish farms in O Mon or Dong Thap province, all of which are live fish. According to locals in the fishing village, the freshness of the fish is the deciding factor in the quality of the dried fish. Because the fish are filleted immediately while still alive, the dried fish will have a distinctive red color, firm texture, and delicious taste.

Ms. Vo Thi Be Sau, a long-time fish drying producer, shared: "This profession can hire workers to process and dry the fish, but each family has its own 'secret' for marinating. However, the general formula is to marinate the fish with white wine, chili powder, and spices according to a family recipe to create a distinctive flavor. The general technique is to immediately pack the fish in ice after cutting it, then dry it in the sun. After drying during the day, continue to keep it in an ice chest or freezer overnight until it is completely dry; only then will the dried fish be delicious and not soggy," Ms. Sau said.

Thanks to proper techniques, Thoi Ninh dried snakehead fish retains its natural color, the flesh is translucent, and when grilled, it emits a distinctive aroma. During Tet (Lunar New Year), some households sell nearly a hundred kilograms of dried fish each day, earning a decent income, enough to cover expenses and provide their families with a comfortable Tet celebration.

Unlike the bustling larger craft villages, Thoi Ninh dried fish village quietly contributes to the vibrant atmosphere of spring in Can Tho. From the diligent hands of the people on the outskirts of the city, snakehead fish are carefully nurtured and transformed into a delicious dish for Tet (Lunar New Year). Thoi Ninh dried snakehead fish is not just a product; it carries the story of a craft village, the hard work and resilience of the people of the Mekong Delta, and the simple, rustic flavors that permeate every family meal at the beginning of the year.

Text and photos: DANG HUYNH

Source: https://baocantho.com.vn/ron-rang-xom-kho-thoi-ninh-a198469.html