Saigon seaport

Many people overlooked this detail, and as a result, it became easier to resolve some economic issues related to trade in French-controlled Cochinchina from afar.

From many perspectives, it would be more convenient if our capital were located on the coast; many projects have been studied to build a commercial city at the mouth of the Saigon River, especially at Cap Saint-Jacques [Vung Tau]: but they were all rejected, the difficulties in implementation discouraged people. While waiting for better things, the commercial port was expanded on long, perfectly planned wharves, right at the city's gateway.

Entrance to Saigon Port [and Thu Ngu Flagpole]. Painting by Slom, engraving by Bazin

National Library of France

The building of Messageries Maritimes [now Nha Rong Wharf] and its enormous warehouses appear right from the last bend of the river, downstream, located right in the center of the commercial port, at the confluence of the river and the Cholon canal (arroyo de Cholon) [i.e., Ben Nghe canal].

C. LETTERS FROM FRANCE

Mail service from France was consistently ensured by Messageries ships, which delivered mail weekly. As soon as the cannon signaled the arrival of a passenger ship in port, the city immediately became more bustling. Those eagerly awaiting news rushed to the post office , where people anxiously awaited counting and distribution; everyone was engrossed in reading letters or newspapers. Those waiting to greet relatives and friends, or simply wanting to see the ship carrying mail from France, would find some solace and relief from homesickness by heading to Messageries Maritimes.

Each time mail arrived and departed, crowds would swarm the small boats of the "signal tower" (mât de signaux) [i.e., the Signal Tower], carrying people on foot to the Messageries dock on the other side of the Cholon canal. Just a few minutes' boat ride and you'd be at the magnificent dock of the Grand Compagnie, where huge passenger ships always had a safe mooring spot. This dock had more of a French feel than anywhere else in the city. The people we met had left France less than a month ago, or if it was their return trip, they would all be in Marseille within twenty-six days!

From weekly outings to nostalgic walks, this homeland brings joy to welcoming a new friend home and the latest news from Europe. Conversely, it brings sorrow to bidding farewell to a friend, and I don't know what kind of emotion, what kind of love for one's homeland, brings to the eyes tiny pearls that even the scorching sun cannot dry. In the colonies, even those with only fond memories and bright expectations always long for France, which they have been away from for months. Things are fine here, but it's not home; only those people understand the immeasurable depth of homesickness!

A PORT OF OVERSEAS CHINESE

I returned to the city via a dirt road opposite the one I had just taken to the confluence of the Cholon Canal and the Saigon River. The dirt road resembled a fence surrounding the Messageries factory area, crossing over muddy patches dotted with dilapidated Annamite houses, raising concerns among newcomers about the local government's sanitation system. However, the authorities had improved this neighborhood, though technically a suburb, it was crucial because of the Messageries factory and numerous rice mills, which constantly filled the surrounding areas with unpleasant smog. I didn't believe these areas would ever be transformed into beautiful houses, but I was certain that with persistence, this corner of the city would be cleaned up, and the dirty puddles replaced with grassy meadows along the roadside.

But we couldn't complain too much because after only a few hundred meters we reached the charming bridge over the Tau Hu canal. Along the slope leading up to the bridge were the high walls of a large metallurgical factory with workshops occupying a vast area on the canal bank.

We cross a branch of the river on a daring, single-span bridge, beneath which boats with towering masts glide back and forth. From the top of this bridge—one of the city's most remarkable works of art—one can see a breathtaking panoramic view stretching across Chinatown.

On the river, sailboats lined up, coming and going, depending on the tide, heading towards Cholon or down to Saigon. On both banks of the canal, trade was bustling. On one side were important European factories, rice mills and processing plants; on the other were long rows of Chinese merchants and large rice warehouses.

In the evening, it was spectacular to see the dark space of the docks illuminated by thousands of lanterns from Chinese shops and countless torches on the boats. The Chinese were very extravagant with lights, and small oil lamps with porcelain lampshades were scattered everywhere.

However, it must be admitted that the foul stench emanating from the water is unlikely to deter tourists. The Cholon canal is truly too generous with all kinds of garbage; when the water recedes like the sudden withdrawal of the Theramène tide, it leaves behind horrific piles of debris on the banks. (to be continued)

( Translated by Thu Nguyen from the magazine Le tour du monde, 1893)

Source: https://thanhnien.vn/sai-gon-hai-cang-18524061520274357.htm