Locating Vietnam through cuisine

Cuisine has brought Vietnam's image to the world and cuisine has also brought the world closer to Vietnam.

From Clinton's pho, Obama's bun cha to global Vietnamese dishes

The image of US President Bill Clinton standing on the balcony of the second floor of a pho restaurant right next to Ben Thanh market, waving hello on a November day in 2000 is still imprinted in the memories of many people in Ho Chi Minh City. That was a historic moment when Mr. Clinton was the first US president to visit Vietnam since the end of the war. That was also the time when pho began to appear proudly in the international media, opening a new chapter for Vietnamese cuisine with an important position on the world culinary map later.

US President Bill Clinton takes a photo with staff at Pho 2000 restaurant

Photo: Alain Huynh

The restaurant named Pho 2000, which was visited by the Clinton family years ago, is still in operation today, continuing to attract domestic and foreign tourists. Coming here, diners can admire historical photos from 25 years ago, which are solemnly hung by the owner, as a reminder of the beginning of Vietnamese cuisine on its journey to be honored by international tourists.

In 2016, during his visit to Hanoi , US President Barack Obama took the time to enjoy bun cha in the Old Quarter. Sitting with the president was the "world culinary tycoon" - super chef Anthony Bourdain and the conversation during dinner that night was part of the famous culinary program Parts Unknown on CNN channel. Like Pho 2000, Huong Lien bun cha restaurant - where Mr. Obama stopped by - has benefited greatly from this special guest until today. Bun cha also took off globally, along with pho, banh mi, bun bo Hue... becoming a typical representative of Vietnamese cuisine in the eyes of international friends.

About 15 years ago, when we first came to Germany to attend the global conference on climate change, our group of reporters had a hard time finding Vietnamese food in the center of Berlin. Only by going to Dong Xuan market in Berlin could we eat Vietnamese food and there were not many options. Today, in the center of the German capital, you can find any Vietnamese food you want.

Vietnamese restaurant inside a shopping mall in Hamburg, Germany

Photo: NTT

Wherever Vietnamese people are, there are markets and cuisine always occupies an important position in these markets. Sa Pa market of Vietnamese people in Prague (Czech Republic) is divided into many areas on an area of ​​nearly 40 hectares and continues to expand. Entering the market, customers feel like they are lost in a bustling neighborhood in the Northern Delta and the most attractive thing for many people is still the cuisine. Right at the entrance is the Hai Duong rice paper roll shop, which also sells porridge, vermicelli with shrimp paste, duck eggs... However, pho is the most popular dish, Sa Pa market has 5-6 Nam Dinh pho and Hanoi pho shops. Ms. Ha, the shop owner with 20 years of experience in trading here, said: On weekends or local holidays, customers - mostly locals - line up all the way out onto the street.

Meanwhile, the 13th district of Paris (France) is associated with pho restaurants that are considered the best in Europe. Many restaurants are located along D'Ivry Avenue, in many small streets running across the avenue, in Chinese shopping centers and even in alleys in the Vietnamese area. Restaurants such as Pho Hoa Pasteur, Pho 13 Paris... are the oldest names of Vietnamese people in the 13th district, with flavors that are praised to be not much different from pho in their hometown. The 13th district is also famous for its meat sandwich shop that is considered the best in Paris. Many Vietnamese people from other European countries, when coming to Paris, often buy pre-made sandwiches from this shop to eat gradually. Interestingly, the French brought bread to Vietnam more than a hundred years ago and now Vietnamese sandwiches have followed the Vietnamese people to many countries around the world, including France.

Foreigners are "crazy" about Vietnamese food

From the humble eateries established by Vietnamese people in other countries, Vietnamese dishes have gradually asserted their position when appearing on the menus of famous restaurants. More specifically, many owners of Vietnamese restaurants are foreigners. For example, in Hong Kong - famous for its love of international cuisine, there are many successful Vietnamese restaurants. "Vietnam has a diverse culture, contributing to a sophisticated and enduring cuisine - something that Hong Kong people love," commented the South China Morning Post , Hong Kong's leading daily newspaper. That is also the reason Raymond Wong opened Bep Vietnamese Kitchen in Central in 2014 because of his "deep love for authentic and original Vietnamese cuisine". The commitment to quality at Bep - with other branches in Sheung Wan and Tai Kok Tsui - is clearly demonstrated through the import of ingredients such as chili, herbs and fish sauce from Vietnam. Wong said the restaurant's beef pho broth is made from simmered beef bones and two types of beef brisket for richness, while the attractive rice dishes are served with black pepper beef or grilled pork ribs.

Hanoi restaurant inside Dong Xuan market, Berlin, Germany

Photo: NTT

Meanwhile, Kenny Tse, who co-founded Pho Viet Authentic Hanoi Cuisine in Mong Kok in 2017, has made a name for himself with his famous bun cha. During Hong Kong’s hot and humid summers, the restaurant focuses on refreshing dishes like bun rieu (crab noodle soup), Vietnamese banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) and variations of bun thit nuong (grilled pork noodle soup).

Talking about Vietnamese cuisine in the world without mentioning America is a mistake. Here, Vietnamese food has been raised to a new position. Not only stopping at 1-2 restaurants, Vietnamese meat sandwiches in America have expanded into chains. A typical example is Lee's Sandwiches, opened by 2 Vietnamese people in San Jose in 1983, and has now developed into a brand of 62 stores in 8 states, such as California, Nevada, Oklahoma, Texas...

Saigon sweet soup shop in Sa Pa market, Prague, Czech Republic

Photo: NTT

Hughie's in Houston is one of many Vietnamese-American restaurants that opened in 2013. Since 2020, the restaurant has operated as a "drive-through" (a dining style of many Americans, driving to the door and receiving food to go, without having to get out) to limit contact due to Covid-19. Paul Pham, the owner of Hughie's, told The New York Times that he has opened a second restaurant and will not stop there. According to Pham, the drive-through is a way to bring Vietnamese cuisine into the American fast food industry. Americans are increasingly fond of Vietnamese food, and that will make banh mi an ideal dish for the next generation of drive-through style. In recent years, many Vietnamese restaurants with a similar concept have opened. All are popular thanks to the combination of quality Vietnamese cuisine and the convenience of American-style drive-through.

What is the position of Vietnamese cuisine?

Ben Groundwater, an Australian writer and traveler, boasted of having the best bowl of pho in his life during a 48-hour journey to try all the best Vietnamese food in Ho Chi Minh City. "I've eaten a lot of pho. It's the perfect balance, the broth is herbal and aromatic, the noodles are smooth and chewy, the beef is just cooked, the bean sprouts are crispy, the onions are thinly sliced, the basil is fresh and many other herbs. I know pho and I like pho. But this is the best pho I've ever had. It's Pho Phu Vuong, which is on the Michelin recommended list. Stainless steel tables, plastic chairs, casual service but the broth is amazingly delicious, wonderful," Ben wrote gratefully in The Sydney Morning Herald about his passion for Vietnamese food.

Pho Hoa restaurant in district 13, Paris, France

Photo: NTT

At the beginning of the journey, right after checking into the hotel, Ben immediately walked on the crowded sidewalk towards Co Lieng restaurant in Ban Co Ward (formerly District 3), which is also recommended in the Michelin list. The signature dish that made the restaurant famous is bo la lot, with marinated ground beef wrapped in lolot leaves and grilled over charcoal, served with herbs, pickles, rice paper and fish sauce or fish sauce. Then, within 48 hours, Ben ate banh mi at a famous shop, drank iced milk coffee at Trung Nguyen Legend, ate crab noodle soup 87 and came back again for pho Phu Vuong, plus a plate of banh cuon, before leaving the city. "However, pho will stay with me forever, the dish that I will always pursue and never forget," he wrote.

Ben Groundwater is one of many foreign tourists holding a Michelin travel guide in their hands to look for reputable addresses in Vietnam. Since Sun Group and Michelin Guide joined hands in 2023, Vietnamese cuisine has gradually affirmed its name and brand worldwide. Culinary expert Tran Thi Minh Hien, Vice President of the Saigon Professional Chefs Association, affirmed that cuisine cannot be separated from tourism. When tourists go to a place, the first thing they care about is what to eat, what specialties to buy to bring home. If the food has a story, tourists will be able to quickly adapt to changes in taste and flavor due to differences in regions, cultures, and geographical locations.

Foreign tourists happily eat and drink in Ho Chi Minh City

Photo: Nhat Thinh

According to Ms. Hien, Vietnamese cuisine has made great strides compared to the early days of integration and has become increasingly famous. However, promoting Vietnamese cuisine still requires a large-scale, systematic strategy, thereby showing tourists the development of the country's culture, people and economy, not just relying on "good news from far and wide" or through stories told by international tourists. "We can see the lesson of Korea in promoting cuisine, especially through the 2003 TV series Dae Jang-geum. That film left viewers with deep impressions of Korean cuisine and opened a golden age of this country's cuisine abroad, including Vietnam", Ms. Hien shared. Up to now, Vietnam has not had any impressive films related to cuisine that have created a buzz to be able to support promoting destinations in a more effective and attractive way.

Foreign tourists happily eat and drink in Ho Chi Minh City

Photo: Nhat Thinh

While waiting for the movie, the appearance of the Michelin star is a breakthrough mark for Vietnamese cuisine. Ms. Tran Thi Minh Hien commented that Michelin creates motivation for Vietnamese restaurants, eateries, chefs and helps Vietnamese cuisine in the process of approaching international tourists as well as going out to the world with a completely new position.

"If any culinary culture has dishes with irresistible delicious flavors, it is definitely Vietnamese cuisine," praised the famous American travel magazine Travel + Leisure .

Vietnamese cuisine has been ranked high on the world culinary map many times by international media, such as in 2022, TasteAtlas ranked Vietnamese cuisine in the top 20, above Thailand; or Ho Chi Minh City in the top 5 best culinary cities in the world by British magazine Time Out ...

The long-standing Thai newspaper, The Nation, has selected the four most nutritious and delicious dishes in Southeast Asia, with Vietnamese pho ranked number one. Pho is one of the main dishes in Vietnamese cuisine, made from aromatic herbs, spices, rice noodles, and optional meat or vegetables. Pho is both light and filling because it is full of protein and essential nutrients, perfect for a balanced meal at any time of the day.

Thanhnien.vn

Source: https://thanhnien.vn/dinh-vi-viet-nam-qua-am-thuc-185251010181403449.htm