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| The imperial robe worn by the Nguyen dynasty kings during grand court ceremonies is on display at the Hue Imperial Palace Museum of Antiquities. (Photo: Van Chi) |
These movements demonstrate a growing interest in preserving and promoting the traditional cultural values of the nation. However, alongside the achievements, this movement still faces numerous obstacles…
Both the restoration and reconstruction of traditional costumes aim to recreate ancient attire based on historical documents. Restoration requires a high degree of accuracy, while reconstruction includes an element of conjecture due to a lack of historical records. From groups and brands specializing in Vietnamese traditional costumes such as Dai Viet Co Phong, Dai Viet Phong Hoa, Y Van Hien, Great Vietnam, etc., a community movement for traditional costumes has gradually developed and gained widespread public support.
A clear example is the "Hundred Flowers Walking Tour 2024" event, which attracted over 10,000 registrations across various platforms; the "Recreating the aristocratic lifestyle of the Le Trung Hung era" project by Dai Viet Phong Hoa, which recreated the costumes of Tham Tung Nguyen Quan Nho, Can Nhan Tu Khoan - Thach Quy Thi, Te Tuu Vu Mien, and Phu Nhan Dieu Tinh - Nguyen Thi Thanh; and Dai Nam Chan Anh, which recreated the Binh Linh dress of Nhat Pham Phu Nhan Phan Thi Tiep, as well as some forms of women's clothing from the Nguyen dynasty.
Identifying the challenges
However, the task of reconstructing ancient costumes is not easy. The biggest challenge researchers face is the lack of historical documents and artifacts. Many documents have been lost due to war and climatic conditions, making it difficult to find materials for reconstruction.
Ms. Nguyen Thi Quynh Nga (founder of Thuy Trung Nguyet and Dai Nam Chan Anh, Head of the Bach Hoa Bo Hanh Organizing Committee) stated: "The existing sources of information are very fragmented and piecemeal, like picking up the broken pieces of a teacup. It is very difficult to collect everything and know what it truly looked like."
Moreover, access to current documentation faces numerous obstacles. While some institutions have provided support, many museums and archives still do not facilitate access and cross-referencing for independent researchers, especially young people. This directly impacts the reconstruction process.
Another challenge is sourcing materials. To accurately recreate ancient values, traditional materials like hand-woven fabrics are indispensable. However, as historian Phan Thanh Nam (pen name Ấm Chè) shared: “Hand-woven fabrics from traditional craft villages are currently too expensive for private companies to afford. Furthermore, the designs are quite monotonous and not the traditional patterns we need. Therefore, many researchers are forced to switch to using modern fabrics.”
Previously, researchers often funded their work themselves, but the results were rarely widely recognized or applied in museums or exhibitions. To continue nurturing their passion for restoring ancient customs, they had to commercialize their work to generate funds for further research.
However, this process has led to the emergence of garment manufacturers who copy pre-existing research findings, prioritizing profit over investing in legitimate research. These "copycat" products contain many inaccuracies, negatively impacting the research community and causing the public to misunderstand the value of traditional Vietnamese clothing.
Let's work together to preserve
To address the shortage of documentation, the publication and sharing of information about ancient artifacts is extremely necessary. A crucial solution in today's digital age, proposed by Dr. Tran Doan Lam – former Chairman of the Danish-Vietnamese Cultural Foundation for the Development of Regional and Ethnic Minority Cultures – is to use machines and artificial intelligence to analyze and provide answers about materials and methods of creation, and to utilize 3D technology and virtual space to reconstruct artifacts.
Researcher Phan Thanh Nam believes that it is necessary to strengthen the connection between researchers and traditional craft villages. To reconstruct a complete traditional costume, close cooperation between all parties is needed, especially in providing traditional materials.
According to Ms. Nguyen Thi Quynh Nga, the restoration of traditional costumes requires coordination from many individuals to spread a widespread sense of community: "A single garment must be the result of collaboration from many different positions and people." She emphasized that attention from government agencies is essential. Although some agencies have begun to focus on the movement to restore traditional costumes, stronger support policies still need to be considered.
The development of traditional Vietnamese clothing contributes to preserving cultural values while also promoting tourism and showcasing Vietnamese cultural identity to the world . Researchers themselves need to be persistent and serious in their work, comparing documents, correctly understanding the garment standards and cultural and ethnic characteristics to bring traditional identity into Vietnamese traditional costumes.
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