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The scent of Tet in Hanoi

Báo Thanh niênBáo Thanh niên30/01/2025


In Hanoi , there was a time when seeing a set of Hang Trong folk paintings hanging in a house meant Tet (Vietnamese New Year) was approaching. Hang Trong folk paintings are divided into two categories: devotional paintings and Tet paintings. Just one painting hung in front of the ancestral altar, called a "Huong Chu" painting, depicting a complete set of five fruits, an altar, a decorative archway, and ancestral tablets, was enough to signify Tet's arrival. Wealthier families would add two more paintings: a peacock and a carp (Ly Ngu Vong Nguyet), conveying aspirations and hopes for a peaceful, harmonious, prosperous, and successful life. This set of three paintings was clearly identified as Tet paintings, paintings used for Tet celebrations – a delightful pastime and custom of the people of Hanoi in the past.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 1.

The scene recreates the atmosphere of Tet celebrations for those who appreciate the beauty of the past.

As Tet approaches, mothers, grandmothers, and sisters are busy preparing the year-end feast. According to traditional beliefs, even after a year of hardship and toil, the Tet feast must be abundant and prosperous. Mrs. Nguyen Thi Lam, a former Hanoi lady who married into a family in Bat Trang, still vividly remembers the days leading up to Tet (Lunar New Year): "My mother was very meticulous. Around the 30th of Tet, she would prepare all the ingredients for a feast consisting of four bowls of soup and six plates, each dish elaborate. For example, the soup had to have 12 ingredients, and the meatballs had to be prepared to be both soft and crispy. The broth had to be made from rainwater that had settled annually, used to boil chicken, and only the second boiling water was used. This way, the broth would be clear enough to show the beauty of the 12 ingredients. To make the broth sweet, my mother used shrimp from Thanh Hoa because the dried shrimp there still had their antennae, which made the broth sweeter. Preparing all the ingredients for the Tet feast took a whole day, cooking for another day, and then setting out the feast to invite the ancestors to partake. After offering incense, the children and grandchildren would gather and enjoy the meal together."

The image of bicycles carrying bundles of coriander leaves for sale on the last day of the year, for people to use in bathing water before the 30th of Tet (Lunar New Year), is truly familiar. In the crisp coolness of the air, the pot of coriander leaves placed by the fire emits a fragrant aroma, soothing the mind and bringing peace. Our ancestors were right to use coriander leaves for bathing at the end of the year, utilizing its medicinal properties to treat colds, relieve stress, and cleanse away bad luck from the old year, preparing the mind and body for a joyful and peaceful new year. The fragrant scent of coriander leaves wafting through the last afternoon of the year will forever remain a beautiful memory.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 2.

One corner recreates the tranquil scene of a rural market, showcasing the traditional toy-making craft of the people of Xuan La village.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 3.

Rural markets, a fascinating way of life that evokes memories of Tet (Vietnamese New Year) of yesteryear.

The colors of Tet (Vietnamese New Year) evoke many memories when you see the golden hues of mandarin oranges and pomelos on the altar – that's when Tet arrives. Each pomelo is carefully selected, plump and bright-skinned, and to preserve its vibrant color and delicate fragrance, it's wiped with white wine. This is certainly a familiar practice for many. Journalist Vu Thi Tuyet Nhung, deeply attached to Hanoi and its culinary traditions, shared her memories: "The scent of Tet (Vietnamese New Year) brings back so many beautiful memories. In the old days, the aroma of boiled chicken alone was intoxicating; the chickens our ancestors raised for Tet were meticulously cared for. The scent of pomelos, orchids, and fragrant herbs, along with the elaborate and delicate ways of arranging flowers like daffodils. If a flower bloomed slowly, they were watered with warm water; if it bloomed quickly, egg whites were applied to slow it down so it would bloom right on New Year's Eve… Tet made me sick from the constant work, from washing banana leaves to rinsing rice, sorting beans, and preparing meals… but it always stirred my soul, leaving me feeling wistful between the old and new moments, prompting me to reflect on myself."

Memories, recollections, flavors, decorations, artifacts, spaces… nostalgic individuals – architects, journalists, collectors, culinary experts… – have come together to recreate a traditional Tet atmosphere at the 282 Factory Creative Space (Long Bien, Hanoi), bringing back Tet memories that many have experienced in their lives.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 4.

Decorating the ancestral altar is also a beautiful memory in the subconscious of many Vietnamese people.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 5.

"Carrying a basket of flowers to the market" - a sign that Tet (Lunar New Year) is approaching.

A playful approach to Tet evokes nostalgia, leaving behind a beautiful memory. Artist Vu Hoa, returning from France, shared his feelings: "It's rare to see people create a Tet atmosphere by arranging antique artifacts in their original form and engaging in activities that bring back memories of old Hanoi—city, countryside, traditional feasts, ancestral paintings, and even street market activities with flower stalls, folk singing, traditional toys, calligraphy… I am a Hanoian, and it's been a long time since I've felt such a close and familiar Tet atmosphere."

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 6.

The fragrant scent of coriander leaves and pomelo peel is deeply etched in the memories of many on the 30th day of the Lunar New Year.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 7.

The altar, a unique beauty expressed through folk wood carving art.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 8.

Vietnamese pork sausage and spring rolls, with their familiar cuts, are commonly arranged on the ancestral altar during Tet (Lunar New Year).

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 9.

Mother and child with various kinds of mung bean cakes, glutinous rice balls in sweet soup, and sticky rice cakes.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 10.

The Tet feast is complete with a variety of visually appealing dishes, including soups, savory dishes, stews, and fried foods.

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 11.

The Hang Trong New Year paintings feature the theme "Carp Gazing at the Moon".

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 12.

Abundance, togetherness, happiness – these aspirations are expressed through the traditional sticky rice cake (bánh chưng) during Tet (Vietnamese New Year).

Hương tết Hà thành- Ảnh 13.

Making banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes) for Tet, a fun activity in Vietnamese families during the spring festival.



Source: https://thanhnien.vn/huong-tet-ha-thanh-185250106173126489.htm

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