Than Sa - an authentic Tay ethnic color

From La Hien, following the Bac Son limestone mountain range, Than Sa appears both mysterious and familiar. In that valley of white clouds, the Tay people of Trung Son still live harmoniously together, preserving their stilt houses, customs, festivals, and even the taboos passed down from their ancestors. Although life has changed considerably today, this place still retains its simple and tranquil Tay character.

A peaceful corner of the Tay ethnic village in Trung Son.

Cultural sediment

Than Sa, a name that evokes a profound land, where white clouds, mountains, and human memories intertwine like a fairy tale. From the center of Thai Nguyen province, heading towards La Hien, past Cuc Duong, the road leading to Than Sa winds along the verdant, undulating mountain slopes.

These mountain ranges belong to the Northern Mountains system, with geological ages spanning millions of years, surrounding narrow valleys that embrace winding rivers that irrigate the crops. In the early autumn mornings, white clouds here not only float above the mountain slopes but also descend onto the tiled roofs, gliding across the view of passersby, and blending with the pristine white of the wild reeds that blanket the backs of the houses.

Many who see the clouds here are reminded of Ta Xua and Y Ty, but Than Sa has its own unique charm: a small valley of clouds, with only glimpses of stilt houses, cornfields, and streams. The beauty isn't overwhelming or majestic, but rather gentle and intimate. Hidden behind the clouds is a layer of ancient cultural heritage.

Numerous excavations in Than Sa have uncovered a series of sites dating from 30,000 to 10,000 years ago, spanning from the Middle Paleolithic to the Early Neolithic periods. Most notable is the Nguom Rock Shelter, an archaeological site associated with the famous Nguom technology, bearing traces of human activity dating back approximately 41,500 years.

In 1982, this place was classified as a national historical site. These discoveries are clear evidence that humans were present, lived, and lit the first fires in this land from ancient times. Amidst the misty valley, I imagine that somewhere behind the smoke and clouds, prehistoric hands tapped on rocks, kindled fires, and initiated life.

But that thought was interrupted when the road leading to Trung Son village came into view. Houses built on stilts stood close together, verandas adorned with golden-yellow freshly picked corn cobs, and roofs of deep brown tiles bearing the marks of time. Children huddled by windows, their eyes curiously following the strangers. The peaceful scene resembled a traditional ink painting, both serene and welcoming.

The rhythm of the past resonates today.

Tay women are closely connected to the family hearth.

In Trung Son, the first thing that attracts visitors is the traditional stilt houses. Mr. Dong Van Lan, a former commune leader who participated in compiling the local history, said: "Here, households still build stilt houses. The materials may change, but the style remains the same, as passed down from our ancestors." His voice was soft and slow, like each grain of rice being threshed using the ancient method of his forefathers. That is, using a plate to scrape each ear of rice so that each grain remains intact, not crushed or broken.

The stilt houses of the Tay people are not only shelters from the sun and rain, but also embody the culture of the community. The ancestral altar is placed respectfully, facing directly towards the main door. In the kitchen corner, there is always a small incense burner dedicated to the kitchen god, with three incense sticks lit each time prayers are offered, along with three small cups of incense.

Although many families now use gas stoves and electric rice cookers, traditional wood-burning stoves still keep the fire burning every day.

In the beliefs of the Tay people of Trung Son, the number 9 holds sacred significance, symbolizing birth and completeness. Therefore, household items such as staircases and window frames are usually made in odd numbers; if not nine, then seven or five, never even numbers.

Locals here are particularly wary of building houses with the roof ridge beam pointing directly at another house's door. They believe that doing so will cause the people in the opposite house to suffer from eye diseases. The story of a family in the neighborhood whose member suffered from prolonged vision loss, and whose condition only improved after their neighbor rotated the roof ridge beam, is still recounted today as proof of this belief.

Not only customs, but also memories of the mountains and forests are preserved in the stories. The stilt house of Mr. Dong Van Chung and Mrs. Luong Thi Nga has stood strong for over forty years, almost intact. Mrs. Nga recalled: "When we first built the house, the forest was very dense, tigers even came into the pigsty to catch pigs. Thanks to the high stilt house, we escaped harm."

It was precisely that desolation that spurred human creativity. Mrs. Nga's husband, Mr. Chung, made the bầu instrument himself. He played it as a way to partially fill the void of the mountains and forests. Now, that edge of the forest has become rice paddies, with many new houses, but in the memories of the elderly, the roar of tigers from a bygone era still echoes.

The spiritual life of the Tay people in Trung Son has long been shaped by customs and festivals associated with the harvest and spiritual beliefs. Throughout the year, the people have many important holidays to strengthen community bonds and express gratitude to the supernatural beings who have blessed their village.

March is the month for visiting ancestral graves, when descendants gather to care for their ancestors' tombs, not forgetting to offer mugwort leaf cakes, a treat imbued with the flavors of the mountains and forests, and a token of reverence. In May, the pest extermination ceremony is associated with the simple yet meaningful dish of rice cakes dipped in honey. In July, the entire village gathers at the communal house and temple for a harvest prayer, hoping for favorable weather. In August, the rice fields turn golden, and each family places a ripe ear of rice on their altar to inform the spirits of the new harvest. In October, the joy of the harvest fills the air with feasts, sharing the abundant golden grains and strengthening community bonds.

The rustic architecture of the stilt houses in Trung Son.

In matters of weddings and funerals, there are very specific rituals. When a daughter gets married and her parents pass away, she must still hold a ceremony to bring them back for the funeral, complete with pigs, chickens, fruits, incense, and gold leaf. Leading the procession is a shaman in a long robe, accompanied by drums and trumpets.

This is how children show filial piety and express their deep gratitude to their parents. The Tay people also refrain from starting new crops or building houses on the anniversary of a deceased relative's death, as if to prevent the memories from being overshadowed by new joys.

For generations, in the flickering fire in the central hall, stories of our ancestors have been passed down. Time may change, but in Trung Son, customs, traditions, and festivals remain intact. And it is this original, unpretentious nature that creates the unique beauty of this sacred land – a rustic Tay culture that lingers in the hearts of visitors every time they come here.

Source: https://baothainguyen.vn/van-hoa/202509/than-sa-mot-sac-tay-nguyen-ban-8c16003/