Courage to bring Son La coffee beans to the world

Bich Thao Coffee Cooperative has become a pioneer in bringing products to meet the national 5-star OCOP standard, paving the way for Son La coffee to conquer the international market.

It all started with a deep concern.

I met Mr. Nguyen Xuan Thao on a chilly November afternoon, just as he had returned from the ceremony honoring outstanding collectives and individuals in the patriotic emulation movement during the 2021-2025 period, commemorating the 80th anniversary of the Agriculture and Environment sector.

The man, over sixty years old, appeared tall and thin, with dark skin, streaks of gray in his hair, and a gentle smile. His eyes always shone with optimism – the faith of someone who had spent many long years on the hills of Hua La (now Chieng Coi ward), where he quietly tended his coffee plantations.

The Bich Thao Coffee Cooperative's coffee processing plant is located amidst a vast Arabica coffee growing area. Photo: Nguyen Nga.

He used to work as a mechanic. “In 2014-2015, coffee prices were dirt cheap, only about 4,000 VND/kg, while the labor cost for harvesting was already 3,000 VND. I sold coffee hulling machines to people, but they said they wouldn't pay until they sold their coffee. I thought: if growing coffee isn't enough to make a living, how can we increase its value?” he recounted.

The simple question was significant enough to change the course of his life. In the following years, he began researching, learning, and experimenting with coffee cultivation and processing methods. Leveraging his connections with roasters nationwide and his experience in mechanics, he independently invested in machinery, installed production lines, and focused on building a brand. In 2017, the Bich Thao Son La Coffee Cooperative was officially established.

Initially, there were only 11 households, rudimentary machinery, and a mere 50 hectares of land. But Mr. Thao possessed a special "asset": a daring spirit, the skillful hands of a mechanic, and an unwavering belief that Son La coffee deserved a higher status.

Mr. Nguyen Xuan Thao inspects the quality of coffee beans at the cooperative's greenhouse. Photo: Nguyen Nga.

Technology – the "key" to taking Son La coffee to the next level.

In the 2000s, coffee growers in Son La mostly sold fresh fruit, with prices fluctuating and little intrinsic value. The emergence of the Bich Thao Cooperative gradually changed the way coffee was produced.

According to Mr. Nguyen Xuan Thao, for coffee to fetch a good price, it must be produced using the right techniques, be clean, and have its own unique story. The cooperative has proactively applied a closed-loop organic coffee production process, meeting VietGAP and UTZ standards. The coffee plants are cared for entirely with organic fertilizers; the harvesting and processing procedures are strictly adhered to in order to preserve the natural sugar content and original flavor.

In 2021, the cooperative continued to expand its scale, investing in a processing plant with a capacity of 20 tons of coffee beans per day, equipped with a system of sorting and screening machines based on size and weight, color sorting machines using German and American technology, along with a roasting and grinding line, storage warehouse, and product display area. Two new 700 m² greenhouses were also built right behind the factory, and a 1,500 m² greenhouse was constructed in Muong Bang commune (formerly Muong Do commune, Phu Yen district) for the production of specialty coffee.

The cooperative currently applies a natural processing method, using anaerobic fermentation for 80 hours before drying the coffee naturally for about a month, then sorting it using machinery. This method helps preserve the deep aroma, long-lasting aftertaste, and unique characteristics of Arabica beans from the mountainous region.

Bich Thao coffee plants are cared for entirely with organic fertilizer; the harvesting and processing procedures are strictly adhered to in order to preserve the natural sugar content and intrinsic quality of the beans. Photo: Nguyen Nga.

Alongside technological innovation in processing, the cooperative has switched to using 100% Arabica coffee beans; and added Bourbon beans in 2017. By 2025, Bourbon beans are expected to reach a price of US$37/kg (approximately over VND 900,000/kg), a significant increase from the previous year's price of US$30/kg. This is the export price for green coffee beans; the cooperative's roasted and ground coffee powder could reach VND 1.5 million/kg, clearly demonstrating the value derived from high-quality beans and specialized processing methods.

Thanks to comprehensive innovation in varieties, processes, and technology, 97% of the cooperative's specialty coffee production is now exported to more than 20 countries such as Japan, Germany, the United States, and South Korea. The cooperative has also created innovative products such as tea syrup made from coffee husks and instant sublimation coffee from premium Arabica coffee beans, all with clear traceability.

Bich Thao is also one of the first six units in Son La to be granted the right to use the geographical indication "Son La Coffee" for its ground coffee, roasted coffee beans, and green coffee products. In 2022, Bich Thao coffee was recognized as a national 5-star OCOP product, becoming a representative brand of Son La agricultural products.

Bich Thao Coffee Cooperative has 16 hectares of coffee plantations that have been certified for reduced emissions according to VietFarm standards. Photo: Nguyen Nga.

Crossing mountains to reach the open sea.

For Mr. Nguyen Xuan Thao, producing specialty coffee is not only about increasing the product's value, but also about preserving Vietnamese agricultural identity, reducing emissions, and using organic fertilizers to protect the health of both growers and consumers.

At the cooperative, all coffee husks, wastewater, and by-products are recycled into organic fertilizer according to a circular economy model. As a result, production costs have decreased significantly, from 70-80 million VND to 20-25 million VND/ha, while profits from specialty coffee have increased 3-4 times compared to traditional methods.

Walking along the lush green rows of coffee plants, he proudly noted that the number of cooperative members had increased from 11 to 25 households. Notably, the number of households affiliated with the cooperative increased from 400 (in 2024) to 1,300 in just one year. Since the implementation of the two-tiered local government system, leaders of communes and wards have directly visited the cooperative to connect, transfer, guide, and train farmers on methods of cultivating, caring for, harvesting, and processing coffee.

Pure ground coffee from Bich Thao Coffee Cooperative - a brand that has received the national 5-star OCOP certification. Photo: Nguyen Nga.

The cooperative is currently cultivating 500 hectares of coffee using emission reduction methods, of which 16 hectares have been certified according to VietFarm standards. In 2025, the Bich Thao Son La brand also made it into the Top 10 of the Golden Coffee Awards (IGCA) in Vietnam, demonstrating the correct foundation and direction.

By 2030, with a vision for 2050, the cooperative aims for 100% of its linked coffee growing area to be converted to replanting, using organic fertilizers to increase productivity, stabilize quality, achieve the highest export value, and avoid the situation of bumper harvests leading to low prices, or high prices coinciding with poor harvests.

On the small path leading out of the garden, the sounds of machinery from the distant factory echoed, blending with the golden afternoon light pouring down on the coffee trees. The person who "breathes life" into these coffee beans believes that, with the foundation already in place, Son La coffee will continue to thrive and assert its rightful place in the international market.

Source: https://nongnghiepmoitruong.vn/ban-linh-dua-hat-ca-phe-son-la-vuon-ra-the-gioi-d784442.html