There is a market in Sa Phin

Early in the morning, mist covered the entire Dong Van Stone Plateau. In the mist, groups of Mong, Dao people... wearing colorful costumes from distant villages slowly descended the mountain. They carried baskets on their backs, bundles of vegetables, herbs, chickens or piglets - products they had made themselves. They walked in the cold wind, towards the center of Sa Phin commune, where the market was gradually waking up.

The basket accompanies Mong ethnic women at every market session.

Bright colors, soulful basket

Sa Phin Market is located on National Highway 4C, next to the winding Happiness Road - the legendary route of Dong Van Stone Plateau. This is one of the most unique and distinctive markets of this land.

The market meets every six days, and each session is “delayed” by one day from the previous session. If this week it meets on Sunday, then next week it will meet on Saturday, then Friday, Thursday… That particular rhythm seems to not follow the rules of modern time, but follows the rotation of the fields, the corn season, the rice season. Every time the appointment comes, when the mist still covers the mountainside, people carry their goods to the market.

From dawn to dusk, the market bustles with the sounds of people bargaining and laughter mixed with the smoke from the kitchen. Here, people go to the market not only to buy and sell, but also to meet, to share - to see each other amidst the hard life of the highlands.

In the middle of the market space, the image of Mong women stands out in their colorful dresses - the colors seem to draw sunlight into the mist. They are the ones who keep the spirit of linen spinning and weaving - the profession that has nurtured and shaped the Mong ethnic identity for generations. In the hands of Mong women, there is always a half-spun flax thread - while shopping, chatting, and spinning flax. Each of those small, thin flax threads is spun, woven, dyed indigo, and hand-embroidered into dresses, shirts, and scarves - not only for wearing but also a way for women to express their souls.

On the hands of Mong women, there is always a flax thread that is being spun.

If flax is something that is never left in hand, then the rattan basket on the back is an indispensable item for the Mong people. At the market, baskets follow each other, creating a rustic flow of labor. In the baskets there may be yellow corn, wild beans, honey, or a few new skirts to exchange for herbs. Simple exchanges take place in the warm and chirping Mong language, without much bargaining.

That simple basket has entered into life, becoming an inseparable cultural feature of the people. People may forget the name, forget the age, but looking at the figure of a Mong woman carrying a basket, everyone knows - that is the image of the mountains and forests of Tuyen Quang .

The market is also a place that carries the rich colors of highland cuisine . A pot of steaming horse meat thang co – a typical dish of the Mong people, is cooked from horse meat and bones with mountain spices. Next to it is a basket of golden men men, fragrant sticky buckwheat cakes made from purple flowers blooming on the mountainside every autumn. All blend in the spicy aroma of corn wine with yeast leaves – a wine that makes people laugh more easily, talk more and forget the cold of the gray rocky land.

People go to the market not only to sell goods, but also to find friends, meet acquaintances, and even date. There are couples of Mong people who go to the market together, their clothes still smelling of new linen, their eyes shy but bright. For them, the market is a festival, an occasion to express their feelings, to start long stories.

Echoes of the market and the journey to the rocky region

Sa Phin market sells many local agricultural products.

Nowadays, Sa Phin market is not only a meeting place for the highlanders, but also a favorite stop for domestic and foreign tourists. Amidst the vibrant colors of brocade, the silhouettes of Western tourists with cameras in hand have become familiar. The people here are used to the lens - they smile gently, naturally like this land.

From Sa Phin market, tourists can continue their journey to visit the Vuong family's mansion - an architectural work made of green stone and precious wood, once the "Meo King's palace"; or visit Lao Xa village, where rammed earth houses nestle on the mountainside, the traditional silver carving village still fires up every afternoon. Further away is Dong Van Ancient Town - where yellowed rammed earth houses are preserved, cafes nestled in the heart of the rocks, where time seems to stop amid the melodious sounds of flutes.

At noon, when the sun has dried the morning dew, the market gradually closes. The baskets of goods are empty, the pots of thang co are empty, only the sound of people's footsteps in the wind remains. In six days, the market will be held again - "postponed" by one day - but the humanity, the color and the cultural soul of the rocky plateau remain intact. Because in Sa Phin, the market is not only a place for trading, but also a place to preserve the memories, culture and breath of life of the highland people.

Note: Hoang Anh

Source: https://baotuyenquang.com.vn/van-hoa/du-lich/202511/co-mot-cho-lui-o-sa-phin-01c2c4b/