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The 'major overhaul' of Cau Pagoda

Báo Thanh niênBáo Thanh niên30/10/2023


A ONE-OF-A-KIND MAJOR SURGERY

The Japanese Bridge (Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province) is a unique architectural masterpiece, not only in Vietnam but also rarely seen in the world . Having endured four centuries of historical and social changes, the Japanese Bridge remains a distinctive symbol of the ancient city of Hoi An. Despite seven previous repairs, this centuries-old monument is seriously deteriorating due to the ravages of time, human activity, and natural disasters.

Cuộc 'đại phẫu' chùa Cầu - Ảnh 1.

Vietnamese and Japanese heritage experts conducted a site survey after many parts of the Bridge Pagoda were dismantled.

Cuộc 'đại phẫu' chùa Cầu - Ảnh 2.

The Bridge Pagoda after some of its structures were dismantled.

To protect this special national monument, the People's Committee of Hoi An City organized the groundbreaking ceremony for a restoration project with a total budget of 20.2 billion VND and a construction period of 360 days. The project commenced on December 28, 2022, and has so far completed 3D scanning of the entire monument; dismantling the yin-yang tiled roof system; dismantling the wooden frame system; reinforcing the foundation, abutments, and pillars… The next steps of the project are expected to include: restoring the floor beams, frame, and roof; reinforcing the remaining foundation, abutments, and pillars; and other auxiliary items, landscape enhancement, etc.

Recently, dozens of Vietnamese and Japanese experts on historical relics conducted a field survey to provide advice and propose important solutions for the restoration and repair of wooden components; the restoration and repair of roof tiles and decorative roof elements; and the restoration and repair of the overall color scheme of the building.

The Hoi An Cultural Heritage Conservation Management Center stated that during the construction and reinforcement of the foundations, piers, and pillars, many difficulties were encountered. Excavation, surveying, and archaeological work were carried out meticulously and carefully. The work was entirely manual. Each tile, mortar joint, and wooden peg was carefully removed by hand, then positioned using wooden frames and numbered to prevent disruption and breakage. After agreeing on solutions, the reinforcement work proceeded step by step and cautiously, reinforcing each location individually. To date, it is basically complete, meeting the requirements for structural stability while adhering to the existing state and ensuring compliance with the restoration principles and solutions.

Furthermore, research and surveys conducted to document the project for the restoration of the Cau Pagoda show that the pagoda structure exhibits slight subsidence (with a subsidence deviation of 1-5 cm) in the rear area towards the corners. Most of the columns are slightly tilted in multiple directions. The wooden frame of the pagoda tends to subside and shift slightly towards the rear, resulting in a somewhat pronounced tilt; it tends to lean towards the river.

Mr. Nguyen Van Son, Chairman of the People's Committee of Hoi An City, said that the Bridge Pagoda (Lai Vien Bridge) is an important and particularly valuable component of Hoi An's ancient town. It is the only structure with Japanese origins that still exists today.

The Japanese Bridge is a very special historical site, so its restoration work always receives attention from the people and tourists, from the central to local authorities, as well as international friends (especially Japan). Therefore, all stages in the restoration process must be surveyed and evaluated thoroughly and carefully to ensure scientific accuracy. "The restoration project will contribute to preserving the historical site, maximizing the preservation of its core value within the overall context of Hoi An ancient town; maintaining long-term stability, increasing the sustainability and lifespan of the site…," Mr. Son said.

" OPEN SURGERY"

At the consultation seminar on the restoration of the Cau Pagoda held on October 24th, participating experts and researchers shared the common view that "the monument should not be returned to a specific historical period, but rather restored and renovated according to its original state based on scientific principles, while also reflecting contemporary life."

Cuộc 'đại phẫu' chùa Cầu - Ảnh 3.

The Cau Pagoda before it was dismantled for restoration.

Associate Professor Dr. Dang Van Bai, Vice Chairman of the National Council for Cultural Heritage, said he was strongly impressed with the restoration project of Cau Pagoda. The immutable principle in the restoration of historical relics is that we must preserve as many original elements as possible (elements that create the value of the heritage), but we must also ensure that the heritage fulfills its intended function.

The Bridge Pagoda is a unique structure, combining both a pagoda and a bridge, thus requiring maximum durability and high aesthetic value. The aesthetic elements must harmoniously combine the perspectives of scientists and the local community. Mr. Bai suggested that, given the difficult circumstances in 1986 when the restoration used ironwood, with current resources available, it should be replaced with ironwood as the main material. In fact, most wooden architectural monuments in Vietnam utilize ironwood. Therefore, for the load-bearing components such as the bridge beams, ironwood should also be used to ensure long-term structural integrity.

Mr. Bai advised that regarding the color of the whitewashed walls, the structure, and the details of each section of the Bridge Pagoda, it is necessary to consult with the residents and the Hoi An community for their decision, rather than imposing the thinking of a scientist. Regarding the roof tiles, he suggested gathering the old, usable tiles in one area of ​​the roof to enhance aesthetics. Where new tiles are used, they should be identical to the old ones to ensure harmony. "To preserve a heritage site, we must not only preserve its physical form but also its soul," Mr. Bai said.

Professor and Architect Hoang Dao Kinh, a member of the National Cultural Heritage Council, observed that the restoration work at the Cau Pagoda can be considered a model for the restoration of wooden architecture, even a model for the restoration of historical relics internationally, especially in East Asian countries with wooden relics. He stated that, having been involved in relic restoration for over 50 years, this is the first time he has seen a relic restored in an "open dissection" style, meaning it is not completely enclosed, allowing visitors to still observe and admire the Cau Pagoda during the restoration process. "This is considered a unique restoration method and can serve as a model for reference and learning in the field of relic restoration. However, it is crucial to note that alongside the restoration work, a scientific record of the relic must be created. Because we will leave behind for future generations a restored relic and a record of the restoration process and interventions," Professor Kinh emphasized.

Several important clues have been discovered.

During the survey, excavation, and archaeological work for the restoration project of the Bridge Pagoda, many valuable discoveries were made. These included the discovery of numerous clam shells in the excavation pit behind the pagoda and the Five Elements Shrine; the discovery of many stones between the bridge foundation and the alleyway; and the discovery of a large mass of lime mortar, clay, and bricks at the Tran Phu bridgehead. Three stones were also found in the foundation, each inscribed with three characters. Initial speculation suggests these were the first stones chosen for the Chinese ritual of consecrating the pagoda during its construction.

Furthermore, at the location of the yin-yang tiled roof at the beginning of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai bridge, a drawing was discovered on the surface of a brick, possibly two characters "Loi Lenh" (Thunder Command) written together, a form of magic used by ancient people to ward off lightning. During the dismantling and survey process, many notes, inscriptions on wood, and rivets used to connect wooden components were also discovered.



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