Immerse yourself in a historical region.

The land of Nga Son often evokes fond memories of a region with beautiful natural scenery, featuring mountains, rivers, lush green fields, and a system of historical and cultural relics steeped in legends and myths... The Hoat Giang River alone, with its gentle flow for generations, is enough to weave a picturesque landscape, marking landmarks and relics, whispering stories of love between couples from a thousand years ago...

Beautiful scenery on both banks of the Hoat River. Photo: archival material.

The Hoat River originates in the Yen Thinh area of ​​Ha Trung district at an altitude of 125m above sea level, gradually flowing towards the sea, stretching 55 km and passing through two districts, Ha Trung and Nga Son. From the Cu Bridge area upwards, it is commonly called the Man Bao River, while the area below the Cu Bridge is familiarly known as the Hoat River. At the Nga Vinh junction, the Hoat River receives a branch of the Tong River flowing from the north; from the mouth of the Tong River to the sea, it is commonly called the Can River. The Can River flows from west to east towards Nga Dien, and about 12 km from the sea, it changes completely to a north-south direction, almost perpendicular to its original course, flowing through the two communes of Nga Thai and Nga Thuy before emptying into the sea at the Can estuary. Beyond the Cu Bridge, the Hoat River enters a low-lying area, then winds between a range of limestone mountains about 5m long (occupying 1/10 of the river's length, belonging to three communes: Nga Giap, Nga An, and Nga Thien). Here, we outline the journey of the Hoat River to show that its life has always been faithful and loyal to the land and people of Nga Son, together painting the captivating scenery and weaving unique and representative layers of history and culture.

Down the Hoat Giang River, we arrive at Nga Thien, home to Tu Thuc Cave and the famous love story of Tu Thuc and Giang Huong. Tu Thuc Cave, also known by the beautiful name Bich Dao Cave, is a system of limestone caves located on the slope of a small mountain, surrounded by vast green rice fields. Approximately 200 meters long and thousands of square meters wide, the cave's highest point reaches about 40 meters, earning it the title of "the most famous cave in Southern Vietnam." From the entrance, the natural scenery immediately evokes feelings of delight and excitement. Ancient trees cast their shade, and the roots of climbing plants hang down over the more than 100 concrete steps leading to the cave, creating a sense of wildness, tranquility, and mystery, as if walking on a path to a celestial paradise. Many visitors are delighted to sit on these roots, imagining themselves returning to a primitive, instinctive, and intimate connection with nature. Right at the entrance to the cave, visitors will encounter two poems in Chinese characters carved on the rocks, praising the beauty of the cave, composed by poets and writers who were moved by its beauty...

What makes Tu Thuc Cave so attractive and unique is its system of stalactites and stalagmites in countless shapes and shimmering colors. Anyone who has visited Tu Thuc Cave will surely be amazed and impressed by the ingenious and elaborate arrangement of nature, creating so many beautiful scenes that seem both real and dreamlike, dazzling with vibrant colors and myriad forms. Tu Thuc Cave is divided into three smaller caves: the outer cave, the middle cave, and the inner cave, often called the three chambers. It seems as if touching these stalactite formations will evoke sounds from some ethereal realm, telling the love story of Tu Thuc and Giang Huong: "Leaving the boat, inspired to visit Tu Thuc / The cave entrance remains locked in a rosy glow / Silken garments hang on the walls, shimmering with brocade / Phoenixes sing, rocks echo with mournful melodies / A fairy's destiny from three lifetimes / How many times has the sea of ​​suffering risen? / Do not say that the days of separation are fleeting / Playing here is no different from strolling through Bong Lang" (a poem by Lord Trinh Sam, transcribed and translated by Hong Phi). The celestial and the earthly, the illusory and the real, intertwine in the story, demonstrating that romance, optimism, and a love of life are inherent traits of the Vietnamese people. Did the love story of Tu Thuc and Giang Huong breathe life into the mountain rocks? Or did the very presence of the mountain rocks further affirm the vitality of that love story? There's no need for a clear distinction, because the rocks, the mountains, and the love story have blended together, lived within each other, and together blossomed, leaving their mark.

Bach A Cave possesses a wild and mysterious beauty.

A famous landmark of Nga Thien is the sacred stone stele mountain, where in ancient times a rocky outcrop jutted out into the river, allowing boats to pass underneath. The mountain itself is inscribed with the word "God" in large Chinese characters. What's special about Nga Son is the presence of many place names associated with the word "God" (Than Phu Gate, sacred stone stele, sacred well...). And the sacred stone stele mountain, along the Hoat River downstream, adds to the mystery and spiritual atmosphere. The bold, free-flowing calligraphy carved into the rock, in this rugged mountainous location, seems to suggest that this is a sacred land, protected and blessed by deities.

Also in Nga Thien, besides the allure of Tu Thuc Cave, visitors can explore Bach A Cave – a unique scenic spot preserving many historical and cultural values. Bach A Cave (also known as Bach Ac Cave, Bach Nha, Bien Phuc Coc), nestled within a rocky mountain, has long been known for its fascinating natural scenery. The ancients named the cave Bach A, meaning "white crow" in Chinese characters, because from afar, looking towards the cave entrance, it resembles a giant crow spreading its wings in a vast expanse of silvery clouds. The cave's interior is an off-white color, and the surrounding water creates an expansive and breathtaking landscape. Bach A Cave is also home to many bats. Therefore, the local people have traditionally called it Bat Cave (Bien Phuc Coc). The book Dai Nam Nhat Thong Chi records about Bach A Pagoda and Cave: “On the left side of Than Phu Mountain, in Noi Tri commune, a small river rises before a mountain, within which lies a cave, unusually tall, spacious, and serene. A pagoda was built in the cave, containing a statue, and outside the pagoda, a gate overlooks Nga Port. Fishermen sing, woodcutters chant, scriptures are recited, and bells ring – truly a delightful scene amidst the picturesque mountains and waters.” Today, visitors to Bach A Cave no longer see the surrounding river, but instead a lush, verdant carpet of vegetation covering the cave. The melodious chirping of birds blends with the verdant green of the forest, as if Bach A Cave itself were the stage where nature skillfully arranged this harmonious symphony. Besides the 1.8-meter-tall stone tablet inscribed with Buddhist characters placed in front of the cave entrance, the most valuable artifact inside the cave is the system of large and small dragons, each holding a pearl, made of white limestone, flanking the steps leading up to the cave entrance.

“Drifting at Than Phu Gate / Those who cultivate virtue will rise, those who cultivate it poorly will sink,” this ancient folk song depicts a sea gate with strong waves and turbulent waters on the Hoat Giang river's journey downstream to the sea. Than Phu is a top scenic spot among the twelve sea gates. This sea gate is also a famous location in Vietnamese history for the nation's resistance against foreign invaders. According to "Nam Ong Mong Luc," King Ly Thai Tong led his army south to suppress Chiem Thanh, but upon reaching this sea gate, he encountered strong winds and rough waves, making passage impossible. Fortunately, a Taoist master with extraordinary magical powers calmed the waves. On the way back, the Taoist master died. Upon hearing the news, the King ordered the construction of a temple at the sea gate, bestowing upon him the title "Ap Lang Chan Nhan" (the one who calmed the rough waves), and named the place Than Phu Sea Gate. This sacred sea gate area is home to many historical relics: the Ap Lang Chan Nhan Temple, Han Son Pagoda, Phu Sa communal house, etc., among which Han Son Pagoda (Nga Dien commune, Nga Son district) stands out as a distinctive feature. The pagoda was built in the coastal area in 1797 and has undergone many renovations and restorations since. It features a structure with a front Buddha statue and a rear shrine, a majestic triple gate, and a crescent-shaped pond...

Like a soft silk ribbon, Hoat Giang – a region of captivating natural beauty, rich in history, culture, and spirituality – possesses a unique potential and advantage for tourism development that not every place has. However, to effectively exploit this potential and advantage, Nga Son district needs more adequate and appropriate attention and investment, decisive action, flexibility, creativity, and breakthroughs.

Text and photos: Thao Linh

Source: https://baothanhhoa.vn/van-hoa-giai-tri/dam-say-mot-vung-lich-su-van-hoa-doi-bo-hoat-giang/188599.htm